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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! Just bought my first purchased rifle, a Mini 14 stainless ranch! (I was issued a SIG 550 but that's sitting with my brother in the EU, and won't be joining me in CO)

I've been doing some reading and i'm looking at making a few additions.\

-Tech-Sights Mini 200
-Accu-strut
-Ultimak Rail/handguard
-Front sight
-Muzzle Brake
-Red dot

I'd like a partial co-witness and the only leads I have on those are from several years ago using a $8-900 Aimpoint Micro t-2, and for a mid-to low cost 'combat' rifle it seems a bit high. It seems that my factory sights may just be too low for a 1/3-1/5 cowitness so I'm wondering what front sights may sit a bit higher. I'm interested in the choate, but it doesn't seem all that high. The Mo-reaper seems higher but a fully hooded sight will occlude more of the red dot's sight picture, and the finish seems to match the stainless steel rather poorly.

Any advice on these or any other recommended mods will be much appreciated!
 

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I recommend every one of those suggested, mine has them all but front sight change and I didn't try to cowitness. In my opinion you would have to raise the front sight post considerably, maybe 0.2" to have it practical with anything but the T2 and I wasn't going to try that. I ended up using a 30mm tube red dot not anything low enough. So techsight was mostly wasted.

If you're really doing the forward reddot then the techsight isn't that great, it is better but it's still not a range adjustable drum sight just a static elevation zero it's far to hard to change often. I would consider leaving that to last if at all.

The single bracket accustrut is enough, I used the double and it's just extra weight and I think would heatsink the barrel and gas block just as well.

Recommended too.
https://www.spectergear.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=911

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I recommend every one of those suggested, mine has them all but front sight change and I didn't try to cowitness. In my opinion you would have to raise the front sight post considerably, maybe 0.2" to have it practical with anything but the T2 and I wasn't going to try that. I ended up using a 30mm tube red dot not anything low enough. So techsight was mostly wasted.

If you're really doing the forward reddot then the techsight isn't that great, it is better but it's still not a range adjustable drum sight just a static elevation zero it's far to hard to change often. I would consider leaving that to last if at all.

The single bracket accustrut is enough, I used the double and it's just extra weight and I think would heatsink the barrel and gas block just as well.

Recommended too.
--

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Good shout on the mag pouch
I did see this scout handguard/rail with a channel for using irons on the accuracy store dot com (can't post links)
anyone with any experience with that one?
 

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Welcome to the Forum, Major_Tom. So you are moving here from Switzerland ?

The Amega Ranges hand guard is the one that has the groove down the middle to see your irons, but that isn't going to make it easier to cowitness.
The Amega sits higher than the Ultimak to begin with, and needs the groove to be able to see the sights at all.

The Tech sight might not be finger adjustable, but is way easier than factory or other sights for the Mini.
Any reason you want a muzzle brake and not a flash hider ?
All your other planned mods sound great though, just the way I mod my Mini-30's.

Co witness is tough on the Minis as the irons are so very low. There were a couple guys that claimed co-witness with their set ups but it looked like more of a 1/5 co-witness, not even close to a 1/3 co-witness. Frankly I don't see the point when your front sight is barely visible in the dot's screen.

In the 6 years I've been using my $200 Burris Fastfires, I've seen all of them hold zero, take abuse and have long battery life. Checking your zero against the irons would be nice, but not really necessary when your dot never loses zero.

If the dot ever did fail, I can have it off and be using my irons in about 5 seconds.
I don't even have to take it off for close range use, there is a white stripe on the side of the FastFire that faces you. Hold the top of the white stripe on the target and you'll be good for close in shots.

One thing I would recommend is side mounting your sling, the way every Army in the world does it. The bottom mounted factory swivels aren't good for anything but casual shoulder carry. The front sling is side mounted to a short Picatinny rail, but I put the back swivel at the top of the stock, or the Mini will want to roll over on you.
Slings are Vicker's Blue Force, nearly 1/2 million of them in use with the Army and Marines.






 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hi Sandog, thanks! I moved here from CH a few years ago, but I just bought a house and now have room for rifles. Great Idea on the sling mounts. My understanding that flash hider/muzzle brake was a legalese distinction, I have no preference between them.

the front mount to which I was referring can be seen at

accuracy store dot com /index.php#!/MINI-14-&-30-FULL-SEE-THROUGH-SCOUT-MOUNT/p/67857327/category=19947040

it actually has a channel under the picatinny.

I've also seen a gas adjustment system with built in strut that seems real neat, as I greatly appreciated the adverse gas setting on the SIG after a high volume of rounds.

accuracy store dot com /#!/Mini-14-Serial-Number-Starting-with-580-thru-600/p/74967197/category=19853331
 

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Only one thing i would question. Why both a strut and a rail? Seems like overkill, and uneeded weight. My preference is the rail. Ultimak specifically, but that's just personal preference. Sandog has great experience with mods, so if in doubt, i would defer to those mods. But it is your mini, so you get to do what you want. Best regards, and have fun
 

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I have found having a strut is not very beneficial unless you have a pencil barrel Mini.
The new tapered barrel Mini-14s and all older Mini-30s ( both have a .625" barrel) aren't helped much by a strut, especially if you already have the Ultimak.

That is with normal spaced shots. When things get hairy and you are pumping out a lot of rounds, having the extra stiffness and heat sink properties of the strut might be nice.
My wood stock Mini once had a wood handguard, and it got a strut before I discovered the Ultimak. I wanted the "M14" look, so after I got the Ultimak I just left the strut on.

The synthetic stock Mini has a strut because I got it in a trade and thought I'd use it.
That gun feels a lot lighter than the other, so I don't really notice the additional weight.
Maybe when the SHTF I'll be glad I still have both struts and the Ultimaks.
 

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Spot on Sanddog, I don’t think the tapered barrel gets any barrel stiffness of value out of the strut, I think it’s only the heat sink and the counter torque on the gas block while the oprod accelerates honestly; the barrel is then stiffening the gas block!


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have found having a strut is not very beneficial unless you have a pencil barrel Mini.
The new tapered barrel Mini-14s and all older Mini-30s ( both have a .625" barrel) aren't helped much by a strut, especially if you already have the Ultimak.
Does the Ultimak affect barrel stiffness?

Spot on Sanddog, I don't think the tapered barrel gets any barrel stiffness of value out of the strut, I think it's only the heat sink and the counter torque on the gas block while the oprod accelerates honestly; the barrel is then stiffening the gas block!

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But.... it looks cool
 

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Hello Major
I haven't read all of the replies but just in case it hasn't been said, shoot your rifle until it is well broken in. The only modification I would make during this time from is the smaller gas bushing. If there is a problem during this time from all you have to do is remove the bushing, put in the factory one and send it to Ruger for repair or adjustment. After all issues are resolved if there are any, then do one modification at a time.

kwg
 

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Good advice above on a new Mini. These newer ones do have issues from time to time and it's possible it might have to be sent back to Ruger to have the bugs worked out.
I have only bought older Minis, those made around 1989 to 1993 (189 series) seem to be free of the issues that can plague current Minis.

As far as the Ultimak helping to stiffen the barrel, it does, but to a lesser extent, as it is working on the thicker part of the barrel between the chamber and the gas block.
The strut works on the area just past the gas block, so you see more benefit, especially on the skinny barrel Minis.
The newer tapered barrel Mini 14's, and the older Mini-30's like mine, both with .625" diameter barrels, just aren't helped by a strut as much as the .560" "pencil" barreled Minis are. But if you don't mind the extra weight, the struts do look cool, especially the shorter Socom one clamp strut.

The Ultimak also acts as a heat sink like the strut does. And no, the optic or the top of the Ultimak doesn't get even remotely warm when shooting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hello Major
I haven't read all of the replies but just in case it hasn't been said, shoot your rifle until it is well broken in. The only modification I would make during this time from is the smaller gas bushing. If there is a problem during this time from all you have to do is remove the bushing, put in the factory one and send it to Ruger for repair or adjustment. After all issues are resolved if there are any, then do one modification at a time.

kwg
Dang, good advice. I opted for the mini in part so that I would be less tempted to go out and buy all the toys I could for it. To what bushing do you refer? I've seen some people talk about getting a 1911 bushing but I'm not sure why its so necessary
 

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Tom, the 1911 specific part is a polymer buffer, used at each end of the op-rod to "soften" the clanging, and make for a softer shooting Mini. Using one at the front end is much more important if you are running optics.

The Wilson Shok Buffs are the most popular, made for a 1911 but fit perfectly on the Mini.
One is placed here, on the end of the guide rod for the spring, and against the metal cylinder with cross pin (which Ruger calls a buffer).

And one at the front, around the gas pipe, this one is a bit charred from much use:

This is the gas bushing that kwg mentioned, you have to open the gas block to swap the bushing. The bushing is a small cylinder that transfers the gas from the hole in the barrel, through the gas pipe, and then the gas pushes the op-rod back to cycle the gun.

I wouldn't bother changing the bushing to a smaller size unless your Mini launches brass more than 15 feet. One that launches brass into the next county is way overgassed and toning that down will have accuracy benefits as well as making things easier on the moving parts that come into contact. And the poly buffers will help in that last respect as well.
 

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Hello Major
Sand dog likes the front buffer, me not so much but I shoot a Mini 14 and not a 30. But, the buffers are only pennies apiece and if you think it can help, go for it. Especially if you decide to put on an optic.

The bushing I was referring to is a gas metering bushing that fits inside of the gas block. The hole in the factory bushing is .080 thousands big. The one in my Mini is .040 thousands big. I have a well broken in Mini and I'm still throwing brass 15'.

If you need to send the gun back to Ruger for any reason and you have the plastic buffers in place they will remove them and probably toss them away. If you hang anything on your Mini that is not a factory part, Ruger will remove it and the odds are you will not get it back.

We are waiting for your first range report. Have fun.

kwg
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hello Major
Sand dog likes the front buffer, me not so much but I shoot a Mini 14 and not a 30. But, the buffers are only pennies apiece and if you think it can help, go for it. Especially if you decide to put on an optic.

The bushing I was referring to is a gas metering bushing that fits inside of the gas block. The hole in the factory bushing is .080 thousands big. The one in my Mini is .040 thousands big. I have a well broken in Mini and I'm still throwing brass 15'.

If you need to send the gun back to Ruger for any reason and you have the plastic buffers in place they will remove them and probably toss them away. If you hang anything on your Mini that is not a factory part, Ruger will remove it and the odds are you will not get it back.

We are waiting for your first range report. Have fun.

kwg
What about an adjustable gas block?

https://accuracystore.com/index.php...ith-580-thru-600/p/74967197/category=19853331
 

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ASI sells a lot of expensive fluff you don't need on a Mini.
Keep the Mini light and simple and just use a $6 gas bushing. It just takes a few minutes to open the gas block and change one out.
And you aren't going to have to change them very often once you find the size you like. Mine last for a good 3 years.

Use that $140 (or whatever they are charging for the adjustable gas block now) and spend it on more necessary mods or more ammo.
If you don't watch it and end up lusting over all the stuff on the ASI website, you'll have a heavy Mini that you have thousands of $$$ into.
And it will only perform slightly better than one that you did basic mods to.
 

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Welcome to the Forum, Major_Tom. So you are moving here from Switzerland ?

The Amega Ranges hand guard is the one that has the groove down the middle to see your irons, but that isn't going to make it easier to cowitness.
The Amega sits higher than the Ultimak to begin with, and needs the groove to be able to see the sights at all.

The Tech sight might not be finger adjustable, but is way easier than factory or other sights for the Mini.
Any reason you want a muzzle brake and not a flash hider ?
All your other planned mods sound great though, just the way I mod my Mini-30's.

Co witness is tough on the Minis as the irons are so very low. There were a couple guys that claimed co-witness with their set ups but it looked like more of a 1/5 co-witness, not even close to a 1/3 co-witness. Frankly I don't see the point when your front sight is barely visible in the dot's screen.

In the 6 years I've been using my $200 Burris Fastfires, I've seen all of them hold zero, take abuse and have long battery life. Checking your zero against the irons would be nice, but not really necessary when your dot never loses zero.

If the dot ever did fail, I can have it off and be using my irons in about 5 seconds.
I don't even have to take it off for close range use, there is a white stripe on the side of the FastFire that faces you. Hold the top of the white stripe on the target and you'll be good for close in shots.

One thing I would recommend is side mounting your sling, the way every Army in the world does it. The bottom mounted factory swivels aren't good for anything but casual shoulder carry. The front sling is side mounted to a short Picatinny rail, but I put the back swivel at the top of the stock, or the Mini will want to roll over on you.
Slings are Vicker's Blue Force, nearly 1/2 million of them in use with the Army and Marines.






The links to your photos don't work for me.
Is there another way to view them?
Thanks.
 

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??? They shouldn't be showing up as links. Imgur is a photohosting site, you and everyone else should be able to see the pics here.
I can the pics again shown in your reply above where you ask if there is another way to view them.

Can anyone else see the pics or are they links only ?
 

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??? They shouldn't be showing up as links. Imgur is a photohosting site, you and everyone else should be able to see the pics here.
I can the pics again shown in your reply above where you ask if there is another way to view them.

Can anyone else see the pics or are they links only ?
For the most part I haven't been able to see the pics that you've posted in your posts for the last few years, and since they come through some times, and not other times, I've attributed the anomaly to either my browser or my IPL address, so I just ignore the problem. Keep posting because I enjoy you're written perspective on all things Ruger.

Thanks, Gary
 
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