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I need help. My reloads are not cycling smoothly. About every third shot theyre either not extracting from the chamber or are not fully seating against bolt. I am not having this problem with store bought ammo. My loads are once fire lake city brass, hornady 150 grn fmj's, 42.4 grns IMR 8208 XBR, and remington 9.5 large rifle primers. 150 grn Hornady fmj's are loaded per HOrnady manual data, not the service rife data, I couldt find the exact 150 grn data in the service rifle section. Guns up bro's, semper fi.

Ive only been reloading for 9 months so any constructive criticism is greatly appreciated.
 

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A couple quick questions.

1. Is the brass you are reloading previously fired out of a Machine gun? (Machine Guns have looser chamber dimensions to make them more reliable and this causes case stretching)
2. Do you sort your brass?
3. Do you tumble your brass? and if so do you ensure all the tumbling media is out of the extractor groove on all the casings? ( I ran into this last problem while using Freedom Munitions factory reloads)
4. Do you use a full length resizing die?
 

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Do you have a case gauge? You're foolish to reload for a gas gun without one. That will tell you if the shoulder is set back sufficiently, and if the case length is within spec. With all due respect to usmc0341, I shoot and reload tons of 7.62mm brass which is all fired out of MGs, and I don't have any problems, as long as the cases are resized back to spec, which is measured by a case gauge.

I'm not at all familiar with the powder you're using. Why did you select that particular powder? From what I understand it's designed for heavier bullets such as 175 gr. Also gas guns such as the M1A are pretty particular about port pressures and usually work better with powders such as WC844, WC846, and 4895 and 3031 for your weight bullet.
 

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Medal guy.
You made my point for me. If you don't resize them properly then you will run into more problems with MG brass then you would brass out of a rifle. :D: I guess I didn't make that clear in my initial post.
 

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Right. MG brass can be stretched more than rifle but as long as it's properly resized and checked with a gauge it should feed and function fine in a gas gun. Lots of people reloading for gas guns don't realize the importance of proper sizing, and if they haven't reloaded for gas guns before it's a little different than loading for bolt guns.

I believe the OP's problems are likely related to proper sizing. I'm not really familiar with the powder he's using-- know anything about it? All I know is it's designed for heavier bullets. To the OP: Sniper's Hide Forums http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm is a great place to get info on reloading for the M1A as well as problem shooting the rifle.
 

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I had an bad time reloading some LC brass for my M1A. Sometimes it would feed and other times it was so bad I wanted to launch the thing. The same rounds would fire without issues in an AR10 and a L1A1. I purchased a Wilson Chamber gauge and found that the LC brass was just a little high in the chamber gauge. By a little, I mean just barely. My full length die wasn't able to get low enough for them. So I did what anyone in the situation would do. I bought another brand of die in .308. Didn't work. Same problem. Now it was grrrrr time.

I put the die on the grinder and took a little off the bottom. Just a smidgen. I then polished it up. I re-sized a few and sure enough they now fit perfectly in the gauge, not too low and not too high. And they fired and cycled without a problem in my M1A. No further issues.

The problem as I saw it was the brass was expanded pretty good. The Lake city brass is thicker and the dies weren't able to push the neck back enough. The other issue was the chamber on the M1A was a little on the tight side so all brass had to be exactly in spec. After this fix, no more issues, and I didn't have to use the ground off die for the second loading.
 
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