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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I had my SS All Weather Ranch rifle all nice and dialed in to shoot 1-1.5" groups at 100 yds from a rest, scoped, .045" gas bushing, rear buffer, Accu-Strut, trigger work, crown, bedding shims, etc. The gas block was retorqued when the bushing was replaced and hand tightened with a 9/64 allen wrench. But NNNOOOOooooo.... I had to make it "perfect" and actually got an inch/pounds torque wrench and torqued it to a measured 30 inch/lbs in a cross pattern ala Gundoc's advice. So, I took it out to the range today to check the POI to resight and it hit dead zero @100yds with the first shot then commenced to walk up the target an inch per round to about 4 inches and then clusters the shots in a nice 1"ish group. It didn't used to do that before when I hand tightened the gas block screws initially. This second time I had the stock, hand guard, op-rod, etc. on the gun and merely loosened the screws and then retightened with the torque wrench (barrelled action not field stripped).
The big question: do I need to torque then a 3rd time at 25 in/lbs or 35 in/lbs? (or leave it at 30?)

Do I take the stock off & remove the op rod, spring etc.? How 'bout the hand guard? The gun is scoped and blue lock tighted on all screws (I hate to take the scope off).

My gut tells me to take the action out of the stock, pull the recoil spring to loosen the op-rod and re do the torquing but I'd like a few second opinions. This gun didn't used to "walk" up the target as it heated up and now it does so I created a new problem I need to fix. I can't be the only one to have done this. Suggestions welcome.
 

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Zero the rifle and take it back to the range and shoot again. When you take the rifle down for cleaning or adding parts, you will get a shift in poi. Set it for last grouping and shoot again, the rifle may need to settle back into stock and parts need to mate together again.
 
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Zero the rifle and take it back to the range and shoot again. When you take the rifle down for cleaning or adding parts, you will get a shift in poi. Set it for last grouping and shoot again, the rifle may need to settle back into stock and parts need to mate together again.
Very well said. Our match tuned M1As and M1 Garands did this too when taken out of the stocks. Very few match shooters broke the barreled actions out of the stocks because of this. If we did - we had to shoot till the action settled back and the POI was consistent again.

Once saw an old-timer replace a broken extractor on a fellow shooter's M1A - he did it with the bolt still in the rifle - on the firing line during a Leg match at Puuloa USMC range!:eek: No need to remove the stock.

Now the ARs rule the line and such skills are obsolete.:(
 

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I think the 30 in-lbs is a good guideline, but I think the key is do not overtighten and have even torque all the way around. I've read on here some people go as low as 20 in-lbs. I hand tighten mine evenly, but fairly low torque. The next time I went shooting it leaked a little gas, so I tighten it about another 1/8 turn and it was perfect. I would recommend retorqueing it with the strut, op rod, and hand guard off and reduce the torque.
 

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I guess you guys know something this old Army dude doesn't know. On my third Mini, never had to or felt inclined to torque this gas block. What did I miss?

Reb
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When I shot the first group I thought it was just settling in so I let it cool 45 min and it did it again (rounds walked up the target about 5"). So I let it cool a 3rd time (had two other rifles to mess with) and it did it again.
So last night I took it out of the stock and loosened up the allen screws on the strut where it contacts the gas block and re torqued to 25 in/lbs (evenly in criss cross pattern) and then re assembled and set the accu-strut set screws. Now I need to test it out to see if that did the job.
 

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I guess you guys know something this old Army dude doesn't know. On my third Mini, never had to or felt inclined to torque this gas block. What did I miss?

Reb
Apparently Ruger is notorious for putting the gas block on either crooked or torque unevenly. Some are fine, others are not. This can cause accuracy issues. There are tons of threads on here about the cause and cure for this problem. If you are not having accuracy issues, leave it alone because the screws are staked and can be difficult to remove. If you are having accuracy issues do a search on this sight for info on the fix.
 

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When I shot the first group I thought it was just settling in so I let it cool 45 min and it did it again (rounds walked up the target about 5"). So I let it cool a 3rd time (had two other rifles to mess with) and it did it again.
So last night I took it out of the stock and loosened up the allen screws on the strut where it contacts the gas block and re torqued to 25 in/lbs (evenly in criss cross pattern) and then re assembled and set the accu-strut set screws. Now I need to test it out to see if that did the job.
The only thing that comes to mind is did you dimple the gas block where the strut attaches and did you Loktite the strut screws. Both of these can cause the strut to loosen and cause POI changes.
 

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DID you call Ruger to see what the stock was torqued at? I have Savages and all of them have a torqued setting and not all of them are the same! They are also in inch pound. Good Luck
 

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Set it for last grouping and shoot again, the rifle may need to settle back into stock and parts need to mate together again.
I'm about to take mine apart to do some mods, about how many rounds would you say this takes?
 

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I'm about to take mine apart to do some mods, about how many rounds would you say this takes?
I bought a cheap torque wrench from Harbor Freight, I set mine at 28-30 in/lbs.

It may take 15-20 rds to settle back.
 

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When I shot the first group I thought it was just settling in so I let it cool 45 min and it did it again (rounds walked up the target about 5"). So I let it cool a 3rd time (had two other rifles to mess with) and it did it again.
So last night I took it out of the stock and loosened up the allen screws on the strut where it contacts the gas block and re torqued to 25 in/lbs (evenly in criss cross pattern) and then re assembled and set the accu-strut set screws. Now I need to test it out to see if that did the job.
I don't know if I've told you this before, but it bears repeat nonetheless. The strut must not slip. Not at all. Accuracy will go all to heck with even minute slippage.
 

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I would torque the things with the stock removed if you are going to go by the spec. I would think that the end of the stock being essentially clamped in by the gas block would throw your torque wrench off.

I have an inch pounds torque wrench but I didn't use it on mine. I just snugged mine down using a feeler gauge to make sure that the gap on each side was identical. It was not when I started but it is now.
 
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