I have buffers now what?
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171 Posts
Hi, use them in your 1911. Accuracy Systems recommends not using buffers in the Mini if you want the best accuracy.
Regards,
Richard
Not very helpful.
I use one on my Mini and it did not make it less accurate from what I can tell. put it on the recoil spring guide rod right where it plugs into the receiver. Some also put one on the gas piston, I don't.
Thats bull crap. Ive used 1911 WC buffers for a long time in my mini-14. 1 on the op rod and 1 on the gas tube. You might have to thin the one on the gas tube down a bit, you might not. I didnt and my mini wouldnt cycle tula ammo but since Im a reloader and dont shoot tula ammo Im ok with that. My handloads and factory ammo cycled just fine.
The benefits... My brass falls 5ft away at my 4 o'clock. The action is much more smooth. My best groups with this setup is 1.25'' at 100yrds. I shoot anywhere from 1.5-2.5'' groups all the time. My other mods are
accustrut
triggerjob
gas block retorque either 32 or 34in/lbs. dont remember right this second.
My mini-14 is a 580 skinny barrel in a tapco stock.
This. I do not use one on the gas tube. kwg
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1,875 Posts
i have them front and back for years no problems i have 6 coyotes for the year one at about 240 yards so far my longest shot.those guys at acc sys are sales men and there buffs suck big time.
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7 Posts
Can't hurt to try em!!
The Mini-14 forum on firearmstalk.com has a great five part sticky section on "Accurizing The Mini-14". Part number two has info, with pictures, on how to install recoil buffers on both ends of the op rod. The whole five part deal has a lot of good info in it, and is well worthwhile to check out. Good luck!!
Scotty
The Mini-14 forum on firearmstalk.com has a great five part sticky section on "Accurizing The Mini-14". Part number two has info, with pictures, on how to install recoil buffers on both ends of the op rod. The whole five part deal has a lot of good info in it, and is well worthwhile to check out. Good luck!!
Scotty
Good info,check it out and do some experimenting.What works in someones mini might not work in yours.Be patient and you will be pleased.The only mod that never worked well in any of mine is the HD recoil spring from ACI.The Mini-14 forum on firearmstalk.com has a great five part sticky section on "Accurizing The Mini-14". Part number two has info, with pictures, on how to install recoil buffers on both ends of the op rod. The whole five part deal has a lot of good info in it, and is well worthwhile to check out. Good luck!!
Scotty
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2,540 Posts
OP: Try the buffers front and rear. If it won't cycle, remove the front buffer. If it won't lock the bolt open after the last shot, sand down the rear buffer.
The truth with the Mini platform, as has already been mentioned, is that what works for me (or marlinman, or mirageflatter, or curtmini14, or kwg020, etc. etc.) won't necessarily work for you. Unfortunately, each of these rifles has its own quirks, likes, dislikes, and, often, moods. :lol: You just have to learn your rifle, and there's no better/easier way to do that than to try things that have worked for others.
The truth with the Mini platform, as has already been mentioned, is that what works for me (or marlinman, or mirageflatter, or curtmini14, or kwg020, etc. etc.) won't necessarily work for you. Unfortunately, each of these rifles has its own quirks, likes, dislikes, and, often, moods. :lol: You just have to learn your rifle, and there's no better/easier way to do that than to try things that have worked for others.
Accuracy Systems also stocks parts from reputable companies (UltiMAK, Amega, Choate, etc.), removes all references to the original manufacturers (check out their 'Urban Brawler' rail sometime...), then takes the RETAIL price, tacks 30-50% onto that, and sells the part as some 'ASI exclusive.' And don't even get me started on adjustable gas blocks... :lol:
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I have an 188 Series, Stainless thin barrel Mini-14. It's been an ongoing project off and on for years. Just put both recoil buffers in, and had an amazing trigger job done by Brimstone Gunsmithing in Yacolt, WA. Never thought the Mini would have a better trigger than some of my hunting rifles. It's right at 2 1/2# now, with just a bit of creep. I glass bedded the stock years ago, and worked up 69 gr. Sierra MatchKings with WW748 for a 3 shot group around 1 1/2 inch. Same ammo next trip to the range was around 4+ inches. I'm posting a picture here, to see if any of you have seen this sort of grouping: 2 close shots, and then they tend to open widely. Wondering if the Mini has knocked the scope so hard it won't hold a zero anymore. Anway, here's the pic.
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Where did you find such a recommendation? As mentioned above Accuracy Systems sells their own shock buffers (at a MUCH higher price). They even have directions and pictures on their web sight for installing them. To quote from their web site, buffers are "A must for protecting your scope" and "Protect receiver also"
The Wilson Shok-Bufs fit perfectly and last a long time.
It's always a good idea to shoot some test groups before and after any mod, but the Wilson Shok-Bufs are probably the most tried-and-true Mini mod.
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105 Posts
So much for the mini not being good out passed 100.
I have buffers front and rear but they are toilet tank washers from ACE.
RC
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2,540 Posts
Adjustable gas blocks are an expensive alternative to a cheap solution. They also are a "fix" for a fictitious problem.
1. Gas port bushings will do the same job as an adjustable gas block for less than 10% of the cost. While they aren't easily changed for different ammo, you can get a set of 3, try all the ammo you intend to shoot, and figure out which size bushing is the smallest that will still reliably cycle the action.
2. ASI claims you can adjust your gas block for different loads. While this is true, many members have had difficulty getting the gas block to maintain its adjustment. They tend to "walk" during a range session. This may have changed, since ASI has introduced several new generations and iterations of the adjustable gas block, but I know it used to be a problem.
3. The truth of the matter is that, after about 3 range trips, everyone who owns an adjustable gas block just finds the setting that is reliable with all ammo they typically shoot and leaves it alone.
Well, hell. At that point, what's the difference between that adjustable gas block that you don't fool with and just replacing the gas port bushing? Answer: Enough money to amass a not-unsubstantial amount of 5.56/.223 ammo. Or magazines. Or "tacticool" doodads.
1. Gas port bushings will do the same job as an adjustable gas block for less than 10% of the cost. While they aren't easily changed for different ammo, you can get a set of 3, try all the ammo you intend to shoot, and figure out which size bushing is the smallest that will still reliably cycle the action.
2. ASI claims you can adjust your gas block for different loads. While this is true, many members have had difficulty getting the gas block to maintain its adjustment. They tend to "walk" during a range session. This may have changed, since ASI has introduced several new generations and iterations of the adjustable gas block, but I know it used to be a problem.
3. The truth of the matter is that, after about 3 range trips, everyone who owns an adjustable gas block just finds the setting that is reliable with all ammo they typically shoot and leaves it alone.
Well, hell. At that point, what's the difference between that adjustable gas block that you don't fool with and just replacing the gas port bushing? Answer: Enough money to amass a not-unsubstantial amount of 5.56/.223 ammo. Or magazines. Or "tacticool" doodads.
Thanks for the reply and the sound reasoning. I was curious about how "solid" the setting would be on the adjustable. I am picking up my new gun tomorrow and perhaps just a set of bushings is a better investment. Short list: trigger job, bushings, buffers... (accu strut????? not sure on that one however).
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I ordered a .040", .045", and .050" bushing from Walkenbear (and some new gas block bolts). I can't remember now what it cost -- that was some 5 years ago.
I'm running the .045" bushing, and I've had no issues with factory-loaded .223 (of various brands and weights), XM193, and XM855. I do not run Wolf, Tula, or any of the "Bears" through my Mini. If you do, a .050" bushing would probably be your best bet.
EDIT: As far as your short list is concerned, you have a good start there. If you're not thinking of going with a scout-mounted optic of some sort, I would highly recommend a Choate handguard. They cool much, much better than the factory (large slots and lots of them), and they make the Mini look a ton better, IMO.
An AccuStrut is a good investment. If your rifle doesn't shoot better with it, you can always list it for sale in the classifieds here and get probably 90% of your purchase price out of it.
I'm running the .045" bushing, and I've had no issues with factory-loaded .223 (of various brands and weights), XM193, and XM855. I do not run Wolf, Tula, or any of the "Bears" through my Mini. If you do, a .050" bushing would probably be your best bet.
EDIT: As far as your short list is concerned, you have a good start there. If you're not thinking of going with a scout-mounted optic of some sort, I would highly recommend a Choate handguard. They cool much, much better than the factory (large slots and lots of them), and they make the Mini look a ton better, IMO.
An AccuStrut is a good investment. If your rifle doesn't shoot better with it, you can always list it for sale in the classifieds here and get probably 90% of your purchase price out of it.
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236 Posts
Rear buffer install as is buffer on the gas block side needs to be fitted to the block otherwise the contact area will not be even just a observation.
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I totally agree with ( COBrien ) I have used Gun Doc's bushing's in my Mini's and with the3 to choose from you will find the sweet spot for sure. There about 30-40 buks, that leaves you plenty of zoot to and on other things. I pretty much agree with everyone else about the up grade's. Trigger, bedding, gas bushing's, strut, Tech Sight's, Choate hand guard, Ultimak rail , Wilson buffer's, Any of these up grade's will make the Mini a real shooter. This kinda stuff has been hashed out on this forum forever, It always come's down to the upgrade's I just mentioned. YMMV good luck. Tony
Just try it standard first before making changes. My 582 mini is the same as I bought it a year ago and is performing as expected. IMHO buffers are not necessary introducing variables into performance of the weapon, especially as they wear out, which they will do sooner or later.
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