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Roll call LOL I am just wondering how many casters signed on and what you all cast. So far for me its 357 ,9mm and 45 acp. Wheelweights and Lee alox lube. I have been dipping and using single and double cavity mold but would like to move up to pour and at least 4 cavity. What is your favorite and method any replies would be appreciated thank you Boon :usa:
 

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I cast for .224, .308, 12 ga. slugs, and soon .454 for my Casull-R-SRH. I cast with the same materials as you do, also use gas checks when possible, Lee sizing dies, they're pretty slick. I've moly coated some of my bullets, seems to work, doesnt hurt anything, but does take overall diameter down a little depending on length of time tumbled, thats how I apply mine.
 

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mostly 215gr 44 swc's (dipped) lee alox lube thru a lyman sizer
Thinking about doing cast slugs for my 416 Rigby (costs a lot to buy bullets for that thing)
 

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I intend to start casting as soon as I can get the money situation sorted out some more. I've talked to a lot of guys about it and half of them tell me it's too hard, it's dirty, dangerous and messy, and the other half says it's easy, try it. So of course I'm going to try it.

I want to start casting for my .44 magnum Colt Anaconda. I want to cast 240 gr. LSWC and 300 gr. LBT. I've been looking at the Lyman site for equipment and I think I'll buy their master caster kit.

Amy
 

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Originally posted by Amy
I intend to start casting as soon as I can get the money situation sorted out some more. I've talked to a lot of guys about it and half of them tell me it's too hard, it's dirty, dangerous and messy, and the other half says it's easy, try it. So of course I'm going to try it.

I want to start casting for my .44 magnum Colt Anaconda. I want to cast 240 gr. LSWC and 300 gr. LBT. I've been looking at the Lyman site for equipment and I think I'll buy their master caster kit.

Amy
Casting is not at all diificult. Try the Lyman #429421 mold in the
.44 magnum. I think you will like it.
 

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Well I tried it and I love it. I am casting three calibers now, and the only problem I have with it is where to get more lead. The source I have for WW does not produce it as fast as I shoot it up.

Amy
 

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I cast for my 45-70 = 340gr & 405gr Lee molds
for my .308 and 7.62x54R = 160gr Lee molds
for my .303 = 185gr Lee molds
I size all these bullets with Lee sizers and use Liquid Alox (Lee)
use wheelweights (my friend owns a garage, so every spring and fall when it's snow tire time..i get as much wheelweight as I need and more) I also use linotype when I can find it, lino makes great hard bullets.
As far as being dirty, dangerous..etc, I cast outside when possible on a solid table, be careful ( I drop most of my bullets from the mold into a bucket of cold water to harden them...keep bucket far from the hot lead...that can be dangerous!!!!!
Anyway it's fun to do and a hell of a lot cheaper then jacketed ,you get to shoot a lot more, of course you have to find the right combo for powder and lead ...that's a other story.
Bob
 

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Originally posted by bobv

Anyway it's fun to do and a hell of a lot cheaper then jacketed ,you get to shoot a lot more, of course you have to find the right combo for powder and lead ...that's a other story.
Bob
Hi Bob,

Well I am well into casting now, and have started using the bucket of cold water, taking care to keep it well away from the lead pot. Unfortunately I am still having leading problems and cannot seem to overcome them.

I am using straight WW, quenched, casting a 250 grain Keith projectile driven by 24 grains of H110, a magnum primer, with a heavy crimp.

This recipie clearly needs refinement. Perhaps I need to alloy the WW with something else, or get a mould for a gas checked bullet.

Whatcha think?

Amy
 

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Hi Amy, concerning your 44 mag bullets , I really don't know because I've never casted pistol bullets , but I would guess you would have load a ligher powder load ( I know you can't reduce H110 very much, might have to change powders) or cast a harder bullet or as you know use gas checks, I use them on all my rifle bullets except for the 45-70 because I either shoot Black Powder or reduced load of XMP 5744.
Also ,the Lee bullet molds for 45-70 in 340gr & 405gr aren't made to use G-C
Good Luck
Bob
 

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Amy,
I use a mixture of approximately 70% wheel weights and 30% founders/linotype, whichever you can find, and I use this in my 454 Casull, leading is minimal, you may want to get some linotype off of ebay and try this. For example, I use 21# of wheel weights and 9# of founders type, and I increase which ever of the two until it makes the bullet I cast come up to exactly 312 grains when I weigh it, that way I know I have the mix pretty darn close to the exact same mix I always use, cause the bullet wont weigh 312 grains unless the mix is exactly right, when using the same material for every batch. I have my working mix, my founders type, and my wheel weights. I mixed all the different components seperately, ex., all the wheel weight lead was mixed in a huge kettle, and then poured into bars, that way I know I'm always using the same known source of wheel weights. The same was done with the founders type, and the same was done with the mix I use for casting. I have a lot of my mixture and will probably never need more of my components. If you can do it the way I do, and get all your components together, you will always have consistent lead for casting, and once you get the mix right, you wont have to ever worry again. Good Luck!
Oh, almost forgot, I'm currently experimenting doing the same thing I have done with some cast bullets in the past. I moly coated the cast bullets with dry powder type moly in my tumbler, then lubed with Lee liquid alox. I'm trying it again with my 454 bullets, just to see what happens with velocity, and leading reduction, if any diff. at all. I'm thinking of mixing the moly right in with the liquid alox, instead of applying it the way I am, but we will see. Just a thought for you experimenters, it cant hurt, I THINK.
 

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Originally posted by robsguns
Amy,
I use a mixture of approximately 70% wheel weights and 30% founders/linotype, whichever you can find, and I use this in my 454 Casull, leading is minimal,
Oh, almost forgot, I'm currently experimenting doing the same thing I have done with some cast bullets in the past. I moly coated the cast bullets with dry powder type moly in my tumbler, then lubed with Lee liquid alox. I'm trying it again with my 454 bullets, just to see what happens with velocity, and leading reduction, if any diff. at all. I'm thinking of mixing the moly right in with the liquid alox, instead of applying it the way I am, but we will see. Just a thought for you experimenters, it cant hurt, I THINK.
Okay, sounds good, but what charge are you using? What powder and how much?

I'm using H110, which I am told burns very hot, and is melting the bullet base. I've decided to try 2400 and see if that helps. Also, I think I'd like to try casting a 300 grain gas checked bullet.

Amy
 

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Amy,
I use this lead mix for my 454 Casull, in a 9.5" Ruger SRH. My load is made up of 29.5 gr. of H110, 312 gr. cast bullet from an NEI mold PB (no gas check), Remington 7 1/2 SR primer. There is no gas cutting on this bullet base. I sized my bullet to the chambers, not the barrel, so I shoot a .455" bullet, with a barrel that measures .452. I'm still playing around with the development stage, so I cant tell you what the accuracy is yet. My goal is to get the lead right first, and I've accomplished that, this bullet does not expand at all, and does not come apart. I've done penetration tests on 4x4 posts, compressed wet paper, trees, the usual stuff. When fired into normal mediums, like the wet paper, it will penetrate 21" of wet compressed newspaper with 2 pieces of 1/2" plywood inserted in the target, 18" from each other like an animals shoulders, to sort of simulate striking bone. This bullet will perform from this lead mix. I'm experimenting with dry powder moly and Lee liquid alox today, to see if I can shoot this bullet and have zero leading, right now the leading is very minimal, but I have nothing better to do than experiment. I'm also checking to see if moly causes any velocity loss today. This load has an average velocity of 1627 fps, most likely its top end and I wont increase it, but I dont know yet. Extreme spread is 48 fps., average deviation is 13.6 fps., energy is 1834 ft. lbs. Of course this only applies to my gun. The main thing is this, the lead mix works for me, and if you have an interest in trying a mix similar to it, its easy to accomplish that. You shouldnt have any problem with leading, or gas cutting, if you have your bullet sized properly to your gun, and your barrel doesnt have any constrictions or rough spots. Hope this helps. If you have more questions please feel free to emai me, [email protected]om
 

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I will tesify to being a fellow bullet caster. Using mainly wheel weights to keep my handguns fed.Years ago I did do some casting for my 30-06. Using mainly lyman equipment and recently purchased some nice RCBS moulds.
 

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Originally posted by robsguns
The main thing is this, the lead mix works for me, and if you have an interest in trying a mix similar to it, its easy to accomplish that. You shouldnt have any problem with leading, or gas cutting, if you have your bullet sized properly to your gun, and your barrel doesnt have any constrictions or rough spots. Hope this helps. If you have more questions please feel free to emai me, [email protected]
Wow! That's some load there! Of course I'm not using an 454 Casul, mine is a .44 magnum Colt Anaconda, but I'm interested in experimenting with my lead mix, which has so far been just WW.

I have read in many places that moly tends to accumulate in the barrel, so I have been leery of using that. Alox, on the other hand, is better in this respect, or so I am told, so I might go that route. Currently I'm using RCBS lube, and that seems adequate.

Beyond quenching the bullets, using a cooler burning powder, and resorting to gas checks I think I need to try a different alloy, perhaps incorporating some linotype into the mix.

The gun is 11 years old and has had countless thousands of rounds through it. I doubt very much whether there are any rough spots in the barrel.

Another thought I've been considering is rebarreling this gun with an 8 inch barrel, and I can get one from Brownell's. That would allow me to start all over again and I think I might get a bit better ballistics out of it.

Amy
 

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Ahh, great thread. I'm a caster. Right now I cast for:

Lyman 148 gr wc (38)
Lyman 180 gr wc (44)
Lyman 245 gr Keith (44)
Lyman 300 gr GC Keith (44)
Lyman 225 gr rn (45)
?? Shot maker (#'s 6, 7 1/2, 8, & 9's)

Amy,
Straight WW's huh? No wonder you're leading up. I only use straight WW's for 45acp bullets, some 44 special. The easyist cheapest way I've found to harden up the mix is to add 50/50 plumbers solder to the mix. I get 1 lb rolls of it at the plumbing supply house for about $1.50 a roll. I put in 1 lb solder per 10 lbs WW's, dont quench (yet) and have no serious leading at all. My 300 gr 44 bullets fall out at around 320 gr's including the gascheck, sans lube.

I pretty much only use 2400 for a 44 mag powder as it gives wonderfully consistant results. Suggest you experiment with it some more, you'll come to love it. I'm putting 18.0 gr's of 2400 behind the 320's and 10 shots averaged 1401 fps from my 7.5" Redhawk. DO NOT USE THIS LOAD. I very carefully and slowly worked this up over time in MY gun. No magnum primers for me either. I'll probably reduce this load anyway, its probably stretching it a little even if no pressure signs. Here's a 50 yd target of this load, benched just to see what its capable of.
 

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