Hogue
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hey cajunego, my mini shoots darn good now without bedding or trigger job and factory stock. I'd like to add hogue overmolded stock. Can I just drop in and except same groups or will I need to bed it too? My groups now are 1 to 11/2 at 50 yards with open sights, I know once I find a scope I like this will get better. The main reason I would like the hogue stock is it's longer, has a slightly higher comb and of course looks great{ I think I saw one or two in the gallery and one was yours} please correct me if i'm wrong, thanks dave
were it me, id drop the hogue in and see what it does, i have a hogue and dont notice flyers, but im not a bench shooter either, the mini isnt a bench rifle so my paper target shooting is done just long enough to get it sighted in. after i get it sighted in i like to use the rifle for hunting and plinking, (rocks and milk jugs are a lotta fun set way out in the field) no doubt a bedding job will make it shoot a bit tighter groups, but i suppose it all depends on what you expect your rifle to do if you can justify the hassle of bedding, there is no doubt that a hogue stock is superior to the factory wooden one carved out of the ugly tree. i read somewhere that a bedding job in a mini-14 has a limited life span, due to the clang and bang of the op rod. not sure if this was true, i think this theory is based on the limited life span of a bedding job on an M-1.
With the Hogue rubber stock you can bend your mini and shoot around corners 
Just kidding.
Like bushwack said they are made of fiberglass, with a bonded pistol grip type rubber coating. I used the Acraglas Gel Kit. It has about everything you need except model clay, and a brush to apply the included parting agent. There is enough to bed 4 or 5 rifles, and comes with dye to match your stock. I paid about $12 for the kit.
gutpile has a good attitude about the mini, he knows its limits, and usees it for his purposes, and has fun with it. For my purposes drop coyotes up to 300 yds, I had to change the limits a bit. Thats why I bedded the stock, trigger job, reduced recoil a bunch for quicker follow up shots if needed, firelaped my barrel, laped-gaped-torqued the gas block, installed a muzzle brake, installed bipods, a good scope, and reload; to get as close to 1moa as possible. Yea it would have been easier with a bolt gun, but not near as much fun. It works for me.
The bedding in any rifle will shoot out in time. With a semi auto, time wise, it will happen sooner, as you shoot a lot more than with a bolt gun. All you do is redo it. Just wipe old beding with alcohol to remove any oil, abrade with sand paper and reapply bedding material. Now we are talking several thousand rounds. Or when you start to notice the flyers creaping back in.
Just kidding. Like bushwack said they are made of fiberglass, with a bonded pistol grip type rubber coating. I used the Acraglas Gel Kit. It has about everything you need except model clay, and a brush to apply the included parting agent. There is enough to bed 4 or 5 rifles, and comes with dye to match your stock. I paid about $12 for the kit.
gutpile has a good attitude about the mini, he knows its limits, and usees it for his purposes, and has fun with it. For my purposes drop coyotes up to 300 yds, I had to change the limits a bit. Thats why I bedded the stock, trigger job, reduced recoil a bunch for quicker follow up shots if needed, firelaped my barrel, laped-gaped-torqued the gas block, installed a muzzle brake, installed bipods, a good scope, and reload; to get as close to 1moa as possible. Yea it would have been easier with a bolt gun, but not near as much fun. It works for me.
The bedding in any rifle will shoot out in time. With a semi auto, time wise, it will happen sooner, as you shoot a lot more than with a bolt gun. All you do is redo it. Just wipe old beding with alcohol to remove any oil, abrade with sand paper and reapply bedding material. Now we are talking several thousand rounds. Or when you start to notice the flyers creaping back in.
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