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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 581 series Mini 30(pictured below).
Its a Ranch, came in black synthetic stock, SS barrel and such.
I've been getting lots of failure to fires. The rounds almost always fire the second time, but I hate having to eject the ftf and pick it up, interrupting my shooting fun!
When I first got it(brand new) I was shooting Tula fmj; it was cheap, available, and I didn't really know any better. It shot good, maybe one ftf every 2 boxes or so and again usually went bang the second time through. I installed a Wolff extra power hammer spring, and that seemed to cause more ftfs than before. I put the factory spring back in.
-Let me pause to say that I put a Mo-Reaper on- thanks Kelly! looks awesome and sight picture is soo much better. Groups are better also.
So now I was at the range last night with some golden bear HP I had just gotten from sportsmans guide. On one particular 10round mag, 3 ftf. Again, out of the 50 or so rounds I shot 2 didn't even fire second time through, 7 or 8 did fire second time through. I'm now wondering if I should put the wolff spring back in?
I did make some vacuum cleaner belt buffers that are installed, not sure if that would affect the ftf rate or not.

I'm sure questions like this have been asked and answered here, but I'm looking for some current input specifically for me. Help please! I love my mini, but it sucks and is honestly embarrassing when it doesn't fire half the time. I'm also putting some pics of groups(before buffers, dont have pics from last night) of 50yrd shots- off a bag, but didn't really take my time with them, keep in mind.
Thanks everyone in advance.... how do I make it go bang more reliably?
(shots on top left of white target are .22s)
-Dave
 

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Silver Bear (steel)
Yugo--brass, corrosive Berdan primed
Winchester WB--US made, brass reloadable
Fiocchi--personal favorite, brass reloadable
PMC--brass reloadable
Prvi Partizan--brass reloadable

According to shooter input here, any of the above should work fine.

M
 

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You probably dont want to hear this but try a couple boxes of quality brass cased ammo and see how well it shoots. That would be the first thing I would do.
 

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Undo (remove) your homemade buffers before you shoot again. Its always best to get a baseline with each ammo type you want to use before modifying your mini. I think your ftf's will be reduced. Good luck.
 

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Did the rounds have a pin indent on them? I had a buffer break and kept the bolt from fully closing. I thought it was just a weak strike, but I noticed no mark on the primer at all. Then I discovered the op rid wasn't fully setting the bolt
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
m1key, I have used silver bear, that worked well but was before the buffers, and i don't have any more of that. I don't reload, but I would like to use brass, just haven't found anything that I can really afford to shoot. Damn brass in expensive!

Maybe I'll go grab a couple of boxes of brass and try them.

King, yes there are strikes on the primers, and I checked the buffers after I posted this last night, they seem to be ok. Luckily they are easy enough to take in and out that I could remove them, shoot/test, and put them back in and compare.

Anyone have any thoughts about the xpower hammer spring? I had it in a while back and I didn't notice much difference, what do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh and I do have brass Yugo available, but am wary about using the corrosive ammo. Its priced just about even with the steel-cased stuff, but again not sure about it. I have heard flushing the barrel with windex or water after shooting it, but if it is corrosive, I'm thinking you would have to clean a whole lot better than that right after shooting to prevent any potential damage. Right?
 

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Oh and I do have brass Yugo available, but am wary about using the corrosive ammo. Its priced just about even with the steel-cased stuff, but again not sure about it. I have heard flushing the barrel with windex or water after shooting it, but if it is corrosive, I'm thinking you would have to clean a whole lot better than that right after shooting to prevent any potential damage. Right?
Just run hot water down the pipe and then clean as usual. It will be fine.
You can run a brush through in between 2 hot water treatments to be sure. Just do it as soon as you get home

You have a SS mini so.. Be at ease.
 

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Oh and I do have brass Yugo available, but am wary about using the corrosive ammo. Its priced just about even with the steel-cased stuff, but again not sure about it. I have heard flushing the barrel with windex or water after shooting it, but if it is corrosive, I'm thinking you would have to clean a whole lot better than that right after shooting to prevent any potential damage. Right?
I always use gunscrubber and then CLP. Works great and no rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the yugo surp is still berdan primed isnt it? so other than using a brass case instead of steel, there is really no difference?
 

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the yugo surp is still berdan primed isnt it? so other than using a brass case instead of steel, there is really no difference?
It is berdan, But it is not machine gun primers. This ammo was made specificly for use with thier Various SKS's, and is also brass cased. Good stuff. Clean your gun after you shoot it and it will be all good.
 

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I shoot black powder and surplus corrosive ammo a lot i like using 10% Ballistol and 90% water. Halfway threw cleaning switch to 100% Ballistol. When you are done cleaning run a wet patch of Ballistol in the barrel. Don't forget to clean the gas block. If it was my rifle i would not shoot steel cased ammo in it. If you are shooting steel cased ammo chances are you have already been shooting corrosive ammo. If you take the leap and buy a Lee loading kit and a set of dies you will be glad you did. You can get started for about 150.00 and if you take it one step further you can cast your own bullets out of wheel weights. Lee has two nice 7.62X39 Ed Harris bullet molds they cost 20.00 each. I think a Mini 30 would be a good cast bullet shooter and it would cost almost nothing to shoot.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I shoot black powder and surplus corrosive ammo a lot i like using 10% Ballistol and 90% water. Halfway threw cleaning switch to 100% Ballistol. When you are done cleaning run a wet patch of Ballistol in the barrel. Don't forget to clean the gas block. If it was my rifle i would not shoot steel cased ammo in it. If you are shooting steel cased ammo chances are you have already been shooting corrosive ammo. If you take the leap and buy a Lee loading kit and a set of dies you will be glad you did. You can get started for about 150.00 and if you take it one step further you can cast your own bullets out of wheel weights. Lee has two nice 7.62X39 Ed Harris bullet molds they cost 20.00 each. I think a Mini 30 would be a good cast bullet shooter and it would cost almost nothing to shoot.
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I thought about reloading, but as I understood it, the cost of getting into it would take so long to see your return on investment that it isn't worth it. If I was hunting or doing like precision shooting, I could see why you want want to hand load special rounds, but just to target shoot and plink I don't know. If you like, explain a little more, maybe you can help get my facts right.
 

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I shoot black powder and surplus corrosive ammo a lot i like using 10% Ballistol and 90% water. Halfway threw cleaning switch to 100% Ballistol. When you are done cleaning run a wet patch of Ballistol in the barrel. Don't forget to clean the gas block. If it was my rifle i would not shoot steel cased ammo in it. If you are shooting steel cased ammo chances are you have already been shooting corrosive ammo. If you take the leap and buy a Lee loading kit and a set of dies you will be glad you did. You can get started for about 150.00 and if you take it one step further you can cast your own bullets out of wheel weights. Lee has two nice 7.62X39 Ed Harris bullet molds they cost 20.00 each. I think a Mini 30 would be a good cast bullet shooter and it would cost almost nothing to shoot.
51
Ruger doesn't reccomend shooting non jacketed lead bullets in thier centerfire semi-autos. You do make a good point about reloading though. I do that for my hunting loads using hornady 130 sp's (#3020). Otherwise the economy of reloading isn't there when good quality ammo is available for 25 cents per round or less in this caliber.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I was at the range earlier and found out why I was having so many FTFs... I wasn't noticing that the trigger guard was coming loose. After I started checking it each shot, and made sure it was secured each shot, the FTFs ceased. I just need to grab some vise grips and bend the guard inward a little and that should take care of it I think. Thanks for all the ideas everyone.
 
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