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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello all, i'am new here.

i just picked up a mini-14 183 series, it has the wood hand guard & i belive it is a 1:9 twist from 1982-83??

it's scoped out with a 4x32 & has a buffer tech recoil buffer on it
and i'am only getting 3-4" groups with a warm barrle @ 100 yards, what can i do to close these groups without a barrle swop??

thxWW
 

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Bed the receiver group, make sure the forearm isn't binding where it fits into the gas block, and put a muzzle brake on it. Then start working up your handloads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it fits in the "wood" factory stock pretty tight, what do you mean about the forarm binding?

just any ol'e muzzle brake, or is there one that you can tell really works? was going to put a flashhider on it, would a brake be better?

i'am stock piling m193, so this is the round that MUST group atleast 2" @ 100 yards what else can i do to close this gap?

thx WW:ar15:
 

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WILLIE,
The choice is yours, but many who post on this BB have had great results with this muzzle break. In the upper right hand corner you will find the search button, try"muzzle break" and read for yourself.
Good luck
 

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I got mine from John Masen (I think they make them for CheaperThanDirt). I believe that a lot of accuracy problems with the Mini are caused by how the forearm fits into the gas block because that is the only contact point the barrel has with anything other than the receiver and the gas piston (via the gas block so it can really get you twice). I have mine shooting to 1&1/4 inches with handloads by bedding the receiver group and adding a Masen muzzle brake and using a Bushnel 3X9 mildot. The Masen people are good people to do business with as they stand behind their products (they make reliable 10rd mags and other mini add-ons also). I have had some less than satisfactory experience with CTD. BTW, the Masen muzzel brake looks like a flash suppressor to me although I haven't had someone shoot at me to see if I could pick up the flash.

There is a guy on here who claims his mini is shooting to 1/2 inch but I would have to see him do it to believe it. I have a 700 with an R5 barrel that will shoot to 1/2 inch if the shooter is capable but not many are. Good luck!
 

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Welcome to the forum Willie. The Blackwarrior double muzzle brake that ICM gave you the link for, cut my groups from 4 1/2" to 2 1/2" ($19.95). Bedding the receiver to the stock tightend average groups 3/4", and eliminated ocasional 3" flyers. $12. Since we are down to your requirements (less that 2") we will stop at average 5 shot groups @ 100 yds is 1 3/4" groups with certain factory ammo. Of course we have gone a bit further with our mini. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
fill me in cajungeo what more can be done to tighten the mini's groups pretty cheap:D

did you try any other brakes before the double, or are all brakes pretty much the same?

i practice with what i stockpile m193, i'am setting this rifle up for 55gr military ball so everything done to it must be based on that round.
 

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I firelaped my barrel, tightened groups 1/4", (my mini was brand new, yours is probably already broken in).

The rest of what I did, improved accuracy mostly for rapid fire. Installed smaller gas bushing to GREATLY reduce recoil (only a little more than my 10/22) lapped the upper gas block half, gaped, and torqued screws to 17-25 in-lbs. 3 1/2# trigger job. Installed forestock screw, bipods (for field work), and shooting sling. (I use the sling to tighten offhand, and kneeling positions, the pods for sitting, and prone. Benchrest at the range.) Leupold scope. 1 1/2" average groups, with best at .92", developed handload now at 1.15"avg groups, best at .85'. Under rapid fire, the crosshairs do not leave the bullseye, only move around it. Groups about 8 1/2" for 15 shot rapid fire at 100 yd. Not bad for a semi auto. I'm pleased with it so far. :D

You can do a search for details, just click on the search button, and enter key words.
 

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The Uncle Mikes forestock swivel stud screw so you can attach bipods on the mini without the $31 mini adaptor. The bipods come with a universal swivel stud adpator. Just use a thin nut, and drimel excess threads as it is under the "Forearm Liner & Stock Cap Assembly". Not a lot of room. It is a cost saving idea.
 
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