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does any one know, that if a mini-14 was to be fed with heavier bullets (69 grain vs 55grain) would it create more accuracy in the mini-14 flimsey barrel? Would the extra weight help with the whip of the flimsey barrel and the action?
any responses would be greatly appreciated!
blzn69:rapid:
 

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Bullet quality is more important than bullet weight. That said, the 69 grain Sierra's shoot well in my mini. To reduce the barrel flip, reduce loads slightly from listed maxes and get a NW Shooter Support gas bushing kit. This reduces that awful op rod slam. The lightness of the barrel itself does not make it less accurate per se, it does allow outside forces such as the op rod slam and stock problems to move the barrel to a different place for each shot.

Don't use cheap FMJ if you want accuracy. The solution is the right stock, a solid scope mount with a decent scope and reducing the amount of op rod slam.
 

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blzn69, i have found the 55 gr. FMJ to be the most accurate in my rifle, loaded with WW748 powder, i also did the gas block tuneup, but the thing that improved accuracy the most was installing Choate's slip-on flash hider. I know it sounds crazy, but groups shrank dramatically after the flash hider was installed. Out of the box, my mini shot 6 inch groups at 50 yards, i aint kiddin. gas block tuning helped a bit, experimenting with different powders and bullet weights brought them in still closer, but the biggest improvement was noticed after the flash hider went on. 50 yard groups finally settled into 1.5 inches, and 125 yard groups stay around 3.5 inches, i can live with that. The Mini is not a target rifle so i shoot on paper to get the thing sighted in, then i have fun with it, at 125 yards no gallon milkjug full of water is safe, and it shoots 'minute of coyote' out to 150 yards, its a perfect farm rifle, and alot of fun to plink with.
 

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darnit, i meant to include my thoughts on why the flash hider made a difference, it must be the extra weight on the end of the barrel, maybe that keeps it from flexing a bit, my guess is that it works kind of like a muzzle break, it's bound to stabilize the barrel a bit. anyway, it helped, if any of you fellas feel the need to make your mini get a little tighter, try one, for 40 bucks its a cheap fix.
 

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Mini's made up thru 1988 have barrels with 1 in 10 twist rates. They were designed and shoot the 55 gr rounds best. 1988 and on have barrels with 1 in 7 twist barrels. The 1/7 barrel is designed to stablize the heavier rounds of 60 gr.s and greater. Both twist rates will still shoot all the bullet weights but when the proper weights are used in the proper barrels they are more accurate.

WAR
 

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I have a stock mini Ranch rifle in .223. With Rem. Nickel Brass and CCI 41 primers with a 26gr load of AA223 and a Nosler 60gr Partition bullet it get 1 to 1.25 inches at 100 yds, for about 4 shots. After that they open up to 2 inches. I've never used anything heavier, since the 60's work fine. Good luck and good shooting!
 

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I have two (used to be 3) mini 14s. One is an old 1 in 10. It HATES anything heavy. I have heard you can get away with 60 grain, but I know 62 grain (ss109) fly all over the place out of it. My newer 1 in 9 shoots them just fine. Likes them a lot. I handload, and use win 748 cci#41 and hornady 55 fmjbt inside surplus mg brass. Shoots fine in both. Not as well in the 1 in 9, but well enough for me.

If you find a 1 in 7, it may not really be a 1 in 7. Ruger made a few VARIABLE twist rifled barrels. That would be a real score. Just don't shoot light varmint bullets out of it, the spin is enough to tear the jacket right off the bullet as it leaves the barrel.

Incidentally, all m-16s are now 1 in 7 for the new ss109. They changed them over when they switched from 55s. Very rare in civilian stuff, though. 1 in 7 shoots the heavier bullets more accurately.

PS I don't know if I'd call the barrel "flimsy". It is obviously of robust metallurgy. The way I understand it the main loss of accuracy is from "harmonics" in otherwords, the charge creates a acoustic vibration like a tuning fork and happens to oscillate the barrel. Shorten it, add weight, or play with your handloads to avoid the harmonics. (why do WE have to do this?)
 
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