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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me how the Harris Bipod adapter fits on the Mini-14? I have removed the stock swivel, ground the stud, and replaced the stock swivel with an Uncle Mikes QD swivel. Will that affect how the adapter attaches?
 

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The harris bipod adapter is kind of a lever fit system that uses the existing front sling ring of the mini. If you have removed the original sling ring then I don't think the Harris bipod adapter would fit because it was designed around the tight tolerance of the mini sling ring & gas block, but you should not need it if you have a sling stud, that is what the harris bipod uses to attach the bipod to.
If you have replaced the ruger sling with a Uncle Mikes QD swivel I think all you need to do is remove the QD swivel and mount the harris bipod onto the sling swivel stud, no need for the harris bipod adapter. The thing that the harris bipod adapter does is, using the existing ruger sling ring and gas block, provide you with a sling stud, which is built onto the harris adapter to mount the bipod onto. The one thing that the adapter does have is another place to mount a sling as it uses the original sling ring to hold the adapter on. Another sling stud could be attached to the stock further down to hold your sling when using/carrying the bipod if you needed.

The harris bipod's attach to the sling stud. The adapter just provides one & another place to attach a sling since it uses the existing one to mount the adapter, without having to drill & mount a sling stud on the mini.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Walkenbear. I'll get the bipod first, then, if necessary the adapter. Either that or write Harris for help.
 

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Not so fast, notsofast, before you order an adapter you might consider installing a sling stud in your forestock. The Harris is made to fit. Your sling goes on the Harris bipod. If you have a synthetic stock, most have hollow channels to allow a nut to be installed on an Uncle Mikes machine screw stud. Ref Tips & Tricks.
http://www.perfectunion.com/vb/showthread.php?t=44566
 

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I second what Cajungeo says, I installed a sling stud on my mini for a bipod, works great.;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have the wooden stock 580 series Mini. I did the swivel mod you did with the Dremel and reblueing, then installing the Uncle Mikes. So I already have the gasport stud.

Walkenbear says I don't need the adapter at all, but can attach the Hariris bipod directly to the gasport stud. Is that correct? I like the stud where it is and would like to keep it about the same place rather than closer to my hand, even if it is to attach the bipod. I have fairly ling arms and like to reach forward to steady the Mini.

I was going to buy the bipod and see if that fit as is before I even think about making the decision on how to take the next step.
 

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OK, clarification.
I have removed the stock swivel, ground the stud, and replaced the stock swivel with an Uncle Mikes QD swivel
by stock swivel did you mean the FACTORY sling swivel?
Did you cut it off?
If so a harris bipod adapter most likely won't work.

Cajungeo has two tips about the sling swivels, which one did you do?
#1 Uncle Mikes QD swivel
&
#2 Install a QD Stud to Hogue Forearm.

The harris Bipod adapter uses the FACTORY sling swivel to attach to the mini.

All harris bipod's attach to a rifle by mounting on a SLING STUD (cajungeo's #2 tip). The harris adapter attaches to the gas block using the factory sling swivel and provides a sling stud to mount their bipod on.

The harris adapter also uses a set screw to keep it tight on the gas block, it can loosen up.

One thing about the adapter other than price, is that it weighs about 4 ozs. You only have to add 4, 4 oz items to add a 1 pound to your mini. The sling stud is the better permanent choice IMHO, it's lighter costs less and shouldn't ever loosen.

The one advantage of the adapter is that it allows you to use a bipod without any permanent alteration to your mini and goes on fast and thats about it, oh and it also gives you another place to mount your sling.
But if you do both of Cajungeo's tips you will have both.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I spread the swivel and pulled it off, then ground down the stud so the QD swivel would fit. That would be the #1 mod.

So do you think the Harris bipod would mount to the gas port stud as modified? Or would I have to mount a QD swivel and the adapter? Not having seen the Harris bipod in 3D it's hard to tell if there would be clearance to mount it to the gas port stud.
 

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No that isn't a stud. A stud is similar to what is on the rear of your stock. First the stud, then the sling swivel, then the sling. We are talking about the stud in the stock, not the gas block. Since you have a wooden stock, not sure if a stud could be mounted, unless you counter bored the inside so a nut could be attached.

We are talking about the one on the left. Not enough meat for the one on the right.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=366960&t=11082005
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
hi NotSoFast,
Here is a pic that shows how the Harris adapter attaches to the mini. It's made to work with the factory swivel, kind of doubtful it will work with a QD swivel.
But hey, you might get lucky and it will work.
the way the harris bipod attaches is kind of hard to explain, you will understand it when you see it.
Let us know how it turns out.
Best O' Luck

View attachment 13577
You're right that it looks doubtful. From what I see, it looks like I either order a new Gas Block with the swivel or do without. Oh well. :( Thanks.
 

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So, what did you finally do? I have a 581 series WOOD stock. It sounds like the choice are: (1) use a Harris adapter, (2) drill and mount a sling-swivel stud in the forend, or (3) drill and mount a sling-swivel stud in the gas block. From research that I've done, it sounds like the soundest method is to drill and mount to the forend. Feedback from anyone whose mounted a sling-swivel stud on a mini WOOD stock to accommodate a bipod would be most welcomed.
 

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On my wood stock 581...

I originally mounted a Harris quick release stud with the metal back up plate. Recessed the wood for the plate and JB Welded it into the stock under the metal liner. Removed the stock metal loop on the gas block for the sling, drilled it out and used a QD swivel for the sling. That rifle ended up being replaced by Ruger so this time I'm just mounting a Uncle Mike's QD stud in the forearm for the bipod. The wood forearm has plenty of meat in it and I think the back up plate is overkill. Just going to put in a pilot hole and mount. The "load" is in compression when shooting and when the bipod is folded up it is in shear against the QD stud. Worse case if it doesn't work I can add the backup plate later but I really don't think that will ever be needed.
 

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It's a piece of cake. Took me 20 minutes.

I purchased a "thin nut", because the one supplied by Uncle Mike's was prohibatively large.

I countersunk inside the stock where the nut goes and elected not to use a washer/plate/bedding compound for reinforcement.
 

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I have mounted three of the Harris adapters in laminate wood stocks with the slightly convex rectangular flange nut that is part of the HB2R stud and mount hardware.
It takes about 20 minutes of Dremel work to recess the space in the forearm so the SS liner will clear the flange nut. I bedded the first two I did and the last one I didn't bother to bed. They all work well and are very solid. The only caveat is to make sure you measure twice and drill once on the hole for the stud. You want to be very exacting about having the hole centered on the forearm. The first one I did, I got it off a little to one side. Fortunately that was a stock I didn't like (original Target model laminate) and was replacing. Also did a Houge stock which I sold to a member here after I was able to get a Revolution Laminate stock to replace it. Harris makes a flat flange nut (HB2) for doing synthetic stocks. The Houge is somewhat more work than the Ruger factory black synthetic because it has reinforcing ribs running crosswise which are just an RCH closer together than the length of the flat flange nut and so requires some careful dremel work to open up enough space for the flange nut. On the Ruger synthetic (at least the one I have), there are no cross ribs so the flange nut will lay flat with no dremel work. Photos attached of one of the laminates and the Houge stock showing the flange nuts.
 

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