Hey King, we asked our resident Rugar armorer this question on a previous post, if memory serves, he said ruger does not have a specific torque for the gas block, the best most of us seem to agree on is to snug the screws evenly, with equal gap all way around the gas block halves ( use feeler guage). I came up with the 17 inch lbs. as that is the spec. for that size screw in aircraft. The barrel on a mini being aprox. .170" thick it would be easy to distort the barrel if ya really cranked on the screws. I just snug em down in a staggered patern a little at a time, checking the gap. Then a final little snug check to be shure one didn't loosen up. I would also recommend using the blue loctite on the threads. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. I torqued mine to 25 inch pounds with about twenty five thoundsands space on each side. I didn't use the familiar blue stuff, but did use anti seize compound to accurize the torque settings. I don't think the anti-seize will affect readings, and hopefully will make it easy to get the gas block off if necessary. Hopefully the screws won't back off. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks for the info.
The 25 in-lbs should be ok, but you might want to check em once in a while as they could back out with anti-sieze. I use it sometimes on aircraft, but with locking nutplates. The screws on the mini have no locking device. You maybe ok, I'm just a cautious type. Anti-seize in 3 to 4 yrs becomes like loctite though. My gap was almost same as yours.
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