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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
I've been lurking here for a couple weeks, great forum. Can anyone help with a striped gas bock screw head? I want to get the bushing set from Mike, but thought I'd try and remove the gas bock first because the AGI video said it could be a pain. I got 3 out of 4 and stripped the allen head. It's the inside left screw so the sling swivel is kind of in the way for an easy out. I'm thinking maybe I should quit while I'm behind and find a gunsmith, but if anyone has an idea I'd appreciate it.
I've had this rifle for a long time and thought I might as well shoot the thing. Living in the peoples republic of Kalifornia makes it tough. So far it's shooting like a standard mini. I put the muzzle break on it and a recoil buffer and it has a cheap butler creek aftermarket stock. (Di Fi hates black guns. Laugh) but other than that it's a stock ranch rifle. 3 inch or so group with a fifth round "flyer" that opened it up to 4 inches or so. First load I've tried though. Winchester 55gr ball.
Thanks in advance.
JWB
 

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JWB---If you have a vise you can drill the head off the allen screw. Just pad the vise with some old rags then secure the rifle in it. Using a drill bit a size larger than the allen wrench that you used on the screw, drill the head till it comes off. This will allow you to disassemble the gas block, be careful the gas piston & bushing are easy to loose. Then take the upper half of the gas block to either a gunsmith or your local machine shop & have the threaded portion removed. I remember seeing something from Sears that Bob Vila was pushing & it removed damaged screws but I've never tried one.

Good luck
Bushwack
 

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bushwack has got the right idea. once the two halves are seperated, an easy out will make the rest of the job , well, EASY;)
If you have trouble w/ the gas block there's a thread around with a link to a place that sells take offs for cheap ($20?) Mike may have new screws, or get replacements from Brownell's.

Good Luck!
 

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If anybody knows the thread or address to whoever sells the take off parts please post it, I'm also looking for a specific part, a lower gas block with the side mounted swivel for my GB folder. Thanks in advance.
 

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I removed mine and one of the screw heads stripped. I used a small drill for a pilot hole, then a 7/64 drill to take the head off of the allen head screw. If you are lucky enough of the screw will protrude like mine did and I unscrewed it out with a pair of vise grips. You can buy new screws from Brownells. I have heard Clark Custom Guns in Lousiana has gas blocks for sale that they take off of mini's that they put heavy barrels on, but I don't know if that is true or not. Oh by the way I had to remove my sling swivel to torque my screws down. Tighten them down in an X pattern and leave the same gap between halves on each side. When drilling the screws out you don't have to go very deep to remove them. Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi,
Thanks for the info/idea's. this is the first time I've tried to do anything other than field strip and clean a rifle, so drilling the head off makes me a little nervous. The gas block take off link helps in case I blow it. I've already got the screws from Brownells.
I hope I can learn to do some basic stuff myself and make this rifle shoot a little better. I'd be happy with 2" groups. The trigger I'll let Mike do, but may get the video and try to bed it myself if it doesn't look to bad.
Thanks again.
John:)
 

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Welcome JW, There's not much I can add as the guys pretty much have everything covered. I don't know how much experience you have in drilling out fastners, just take it slow, keep your drill STRAIGHT, and only drill off the head. You can mark your drill bit with some tape using the head of one of the other screws to measure with, so you won't go too deep. Sometimes when your very close, stop the drill and woble it slightly, and the head will pop off. This will leave a nub so you can remove the rest of the fastner with the vice grips. I wouldn't try using pliers, as they just don't have the grip. Its a simple operation, you should have no problem. Do yourself a favor, and throw that allen key away (its stripped or worn. Get a new one. You might want to set the new screws with Loctite blue, so they won't come out untill you decide to take them out. Also if you tweek the front swivel where you can't get back on, get an Uncle Mikes QD Swivel kit. There cheep. Good luck, and let us know how things turn out.
 

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I was able to pull the allen head screws on mine using a 9/64 allen bit, but I went very slowly to defeat the threadlock in the block. You're right about losing the internal parts easily. Down on my hands and knees for 15 minutes in the garage looking for the itty bittys.

I pulled the trigger assembly and polished the sear mechanism with a dremel tool and some jewelers rouge. Helps a little, but not much. There's still lots to do, but I think it's smart not to get to ambitious with that dremel tool. I would like to tighten the groups up just a tad, though. Mine's a stainless with a black synth. stock and a 3-9x trophy hunter scope. Gotta see about clipping that ejector spring a couple of coils down. Pitching spent cases about 20 yards. A bigger barrel would help, too.
 

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Hey Ben -
Check out the threads regarding the gas bushings kit. I haven't used one, but it souds like everyone on the board who has likes it alot. It will solve your problem of pitchin' brass. :beer:
 

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Hey Ben, djskit is right, my mini spit brass 60 ft, till I installed a way smaller gas bushing, now it plobs the brass about 10ft. If it were my mini I wouldn't go clipen springs, but its your mini.
 

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Try this,I use it at work to remove stripped out allen heads.If you have a cutoff wheel"dremel tool with a cutoff wheel will work fine"make a small slot in the allen head and try to remove it with a TIGHT fitting sloted screwdriver.If this doesn't work look who much gap you have between the lower and upper block,if its like my mini,you should be able to put a 1/16" thick dremel cutoff wheel between the two.You should be able to cut the screw in 1/2 and seperate the lower and upper blocks without damage to the inside of the blocks.when sperated the screw 1/2's will come out very easy without any pressure on the.The only thing you will need is a new allen head screw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi,
Well, I finally had time to sit down and work on the gas block. I got the screw out (yea) but I thought I drilled to deep at first. I used a 7/64 bit and thee hole got a little off center. Then I bought a 9/64 carbide bit and figured I couldn't hurt it ant worse. It actually snapped the head off and I didn't touch the gas block at all. The day before I ordered a take off block just in case. (Laugh) Oh well, I have an extra.
Hey, has anyone lapped the gas block? Did it help any? There was an article posted somewhere on the web and the guy that wrote it said it reduced groups. I think he said you lap it and torque it down evenly to 17lbs if I remember.
I noticed a little gas leak on the underside of my barrel when I was working on it. Just a small black area of fouling, is that pretty normal? Anyway it wouldn't cost much to do if it would help.
Now all I have to do is send the trigger off and get the gas port kit.
Thanks again.
John
 

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I touqued mne down to 25in lbs. I had to make the 9/64 allen driver as no one around here had one. I used antiseize compound on my threads as a personal preference, it won't keep the screws from backing out but accurizes the torque setting. Use the blue colored locktite to keep your screws locked in. I've shot my mini many times and as of yet the screws with the antiseize comp. haven't backed out yet. My personal belief is the factory tightens way beyond 25in lbs the way my gas block poped when I drilled the screw head off.
 

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Just so you guys know for future reference, there is such a 'drill' bit that is designed specifically for removing screws with damaged heads. It digs into the screw just enough, and reverses it out. It would damage a good screw in the process, but it's intended for damaged ones anyway... Check your local hardware store. I think Craftsman makes it.

Other options:
http://www.motorcycle.com/mo/mcnuts/stuckscrews.html
 

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Over the years I have tried the following,LH "reverse drill bits",at least 10 different types and styles of easy outs,pin punch and hammer,cutoff wheel"sloting of screw",welding washer over broken bolt then welding nut to that,centering bit,drill smaller hole and tap with reverse thread tap,install new reverse thread bolt.bottom out and backout old broken bolt.epoxy new rod to bolt and try to get it out.Some work,if you have the room,if heat will not bother what you are trying to take the broken bolt out of.One of a 1000 variables.Aldo
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Small tactical nukes?
Well, you wouldn't have to buy tritium sights.

Hey I took it out and shot one last time before I send my trigger off to get worked on. I got better groups. Does Ruger tighten the screws down to much, or are the suppoesed to be that tight because the Op rod hit the gas block?
John
 

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I think Ruger does overtighten their screws. But, I'm not Ruger. I tightened mine to 25in lbs. and they haven't come loose yet, nor knocked my gas block off. Rifle is more accurate since my gas port bushing change! Good luck! Broken screws? Maybe one of you could suggest how to get a broken tungston tap out of a piece of hardware I CAN'T replace?
 
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