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just wanted to pass along a cleaning tip. after cleaning the gas block area i sprayed it with lite coat of rem oil which is a dry teflon lube. my usual method of cleaning is to spry it down with syn safe gunscrubber. well after 100 rounds it only took 2 short blasts of gunscrubber to clean it. also used the rem oil on the op rod and that came clean with just a rag and no solvent. also the same with the forearm liner.
 

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Being a dry teflon lube that may be OK, but lest anyone get the idea of trying this with oil, the gas system should be kept dry. Please let us know after you've used this method for awhile whether it continues to work well for you.

ETA: I just checked the owners manual and did not find any instruction not to use oil on the gas system. I have read that it causes problems, but can't vouch for that personally because I've always kept mine dry and that's what's worked for me.
 

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I sort of new to the Mini 30, and had not heard that the gas port should be kept dry.

I use rem lube, or more often now, DuPont Teflon Dry wax. (Same stuff as far as I can tell, only the DuPont can's are cheaper, and have about 3x as much in them.)

I use the dry wax/teflon on all my weapons, and love that the wax film protects the metal from just about everything. Water, corosive powder and it's not sticky, so for the most part, quite a bit of what used to stick in my guns no longer remains.

I use brake cleaner to wash the guns after use. Remove any wood stocks first however. Has worked great for years. The only gun specific cleaner I have is Hoppes 9, and some breakfree CLP with teflon I've had since the late 80's.

I try to always use jacketed rounds, so no lead build up issues, and a bore snake cleans up the barrel really nice on every weapon.
 

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I edited my post because I was unable to find any reference in the owners manual to keeping the gas pipe dry (unlubed). The manual has to be considered the authority, but even so I'd advise caution in lubricating any part of the gas system. There are reports of at least some kinds of lube causing lock-up malfunction. Whether this is true of a dry lube I do not know.
 

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I cleaned out the gas tube, and the bolt housing of carbon, but I notice the the stainless steel is pretty corroded. (I bought this rifle used, but not used very much.)

Clearly the previous owner shot some corrosive stuff, and never cleaned the gas tube, but the rest of the rifle is in excellent condition. (Like new.)

I don't think the dry wax lubricants will cause any problems, and I'd rather have no corrosion if possible.
 

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As long as you're just shooting the Russian mfr Wolf, etc, you won't have any issues from corrosive ammo. The only kind of corrosive 7.62x39 on the market these days is the Yugo, which is excellent ammo, but def. corrosive. Some people say even the modern Russian ammo is "slightly" corrosive, but I'm skeptical of that.

Good luck and if worse comes to worse, you can replace that gas pipe. Those do get carbon buildup but it usually falls off with operation, and doesn't cause any problem, so it does sound like there may indeed have been some corrosive ammo shot through that without afterwards washing the primer residue out.
 

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I've always cleaned mine with CLP and wiped it dry, and I normally don't detail clean until I've got around 200 rounds down the tube. Just a wipe down to get rid of carbon and dirt. On my revolvers I wipe a little CLP on the front of the cylinders and around the forcing cone before a range session and the carbon rings wipe right off.
 

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For the gas pipe, I usually just brush it off with a small brass brush & wipe off the loose particles. I do keep a short 6" section of automotive fuel line in my bag, which I occasionally put over the pipe. I then insert my small compressor blower tip to the other end of the fuel line & blast some air through it. I suppose I run the risk of actually blowing a particle into the barrel port, but that hasn't ever happened. To be honest, there really isn't much regular maintenance needed on the gas pipe if the rifle is cycling properly...;)
 
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