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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, I got an unexpected gift this year for Christmas. My girlfriend picked me up a SS/Synthetic 10/22, and my grandmother bought me a BSA Sweet 22 Side Focus. The two of them had the scope mounted and boresighted before I got ahold of it.

Anyhow, I've got a preliminary list of mods/upgrades put together. I'm looking to build an all-weather, lightweight tack driver to wreak havoc on squirrels, prairie dogs, etc.

- Volquartsen THM Carbon Barrel
- Hogue Hard Nylon Stock
- KIDD "Trigger Job" Kit
- KIDD Bolt Hold Open
- KIDD Buffer
- OEM Metal Trigger Assembly (because polymer trigger guards make me feel dirty...:lol:)

What say y'all?

EDIT: Obviously, I'm gonna put some rounds through it and just have fun with it before I go tearing it apart and whatnot. And the cheaper mods (i.e., everything but the barrel and stock) will be done first. ;)
 

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Well...my take is that you're wasting a lot going with that barrel and then, in comparison, skimping on the rest - including the optics. If you're to spend that $$$ and go to that level with the barrel, it makes no sense to go with such lesser components for the rest of the build. To clarify some... Nothing wrong with the Kidd trigger kit at all. It's the best DIY kit out there. It is intended for the polymer housings though and may not fit correctly in the alloy ones due to the less consistent manufacturing of those. The bolt release - an easy DIY project done in a matter of minutes.

If all you desire is a critter getter with performance above that of the stock set-up, you can do that without spending the $$$ on the VQ barrel, get no less performance and be just as happy with the results. Whistle Pig comes to mind first as I've had multiple barrels from them that all give fantastic performance. Then there's that which all the rest are judged by and by far the most recommend upper-level barrels - Kidd. Even then it makes much more sense to keep a relatively level of quality across the build from barrel to bolt, from trigger to optics. Also consider the ammo to be used.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Appreciate the input! I understand what you're getting at.

The list above isn't the finished product... ;) It's a starting point of sorts. I know the barrel is overkill when compared to the rest of the list, but I only want to buy one barrel and be done. I've found the VQ online for prices that aren't all that much more than a KIDD sleeved barrel, and not an astonishing amount more than a WP. The rest I'm willing to experiment with and/or upgrade later.

The BSA was a gift from my grandmother, so I'll stick with it for a bit. I realize it's a $150 scope, and honestly don't expect any more from it than the Simmons I had on a Walmart Savage 110. Notice I said 'had'. :lol:

As far as the rest goes, I've got my eye on any number of other mods, including bolts and whatnot. All things that will be added as I find I need them.

For the trigger, I've spoken to the folks at Kidd who advised that their drop-in kit often does work in the aluminum assemblies, but I can return it no questions asked if it doesn't. In the event that this is the case, what would you recommend? Some other drop-in? Or have someone (i.e., GunDoc) do some stoning?
 

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For your trigger:
BrimstoneGunsmithing - Ruger 10/22

For your bolt:
https://sites.google.com/site/quesplace/

Opt for the Volquartsen extractor for your bolt, too. Its a must have.

I also use Que for re-chambering/crowning factory barrels and the end result is often the equal of the popular aftermarket performance barrels. A true high end match grade barrel will still take the top honours though.

Get a nice hex-style receiver screw if yours has the slot-head version.
 

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I'd actually suggest going over to Rimfire Central, the online home of anything and everything 10/22. Do some reading, searching, reading, etc See what is recommended to others doing the same as you. You'll notice a commonality in what is favored and what's not.
Remember, the big name and higher price doesn't always mean better. ;) Also many items are more cosmetic than actually providing any actual performance improvement. Marketing can make things sound great and necessary and again isn't always the case. ex: a titanium take down bolt...yeah, that's a big performance enhancer. :roll eyes: Don't get pulled in my flash and glitter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd actually suggest going over to Rimfire Central, the online home of anything and everything 10/22. Do some reading, searching, reading, etc See what is recommended to others doing the same as you. You'll notice a commonality in what is favored and what's not.
Remember, the big name and higher price doesn't always mean better. ;) Also many items are more cosmetic than actually providing any actual performance improvement. Marketing can make things sound great and necessary and again isn't always the case. ex: a titanium take down bolt...yeah, that's a big performance enhancer. :roll eyes: Don't get pulled in my flash and glitter.
I'm already finding all of that to be true. I'm just looking to keep my rifle lightweight and useful -- not flashy. No polka-dot laminate stocks or wild-ass colored barrels. Not looking to impress anyone at the range. And compensators? On a .22LR? I see no reason...:rolleyes:

Although I have to admit I have succumbed to aesthetics on the trigger guard/housing swap. Or is that just personal preference? ;)
 

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+1 on RFC. Lots of info there. If you're looking to save some cash, the three KIDD items can be done yourself fairly cheaply. Muzzle devices, although silly looking on a .22, make for great crown protection, especially for a field/hunting gun. That said, mine is threaded but wears no device.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, the OEM parts keep piling up in my safe... :lol:

I'm doing a little at a time, here and there, and keeping lots of eBay vendors in business.

Bought a RT auto bolt release, Raven Eye S1 kit, and about to scrap the 'Sun Optics' rings my girlfriend picked out before giving me the rifle (I appreciate her enthusiasm, but I'll take Warnes...;)). Also ordered up a cheek pad from ShopRuger.com so I can actually get a cheek weld when shooting with my scope. The trigger will go off to GunDoc and the bolt to Que (plus a VQ extractor, still on the fence about jeweling or blackening...), then free-float the barrel and cut the OE synthetic stock down to get rid of the barrel band. Hell, I may just hog out the barrel channel on the OE stock when I upgrade to the THM barrel...
 

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You could also upgrade to a CNC Bolt, found some custom ones on ebay by JWH Custom, they are unique since you can get what you want engraved on them :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You could also upgrade to a CNC Bolt, found some custom ones on ebay by JWH Custom, they are unique since you can get what you want engraved on them :)
I've seen the JWH parts. They look cool, and I'm sure they perform, but I'm gonna fight back the urge to spend $150 on a CNC bolt. That's over halfway to my new barrel... :lol:
 

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Here is what I've done over the years.

Best stock I've found is the Hogue overmolded ones. They are comfortable, and work great, and are not too heavy either.

Butler Creek carbon fiber barrel. It was part of the kit they used to offer with the Hogue stock.. I think the whole deal was 199.00 back then.. It's a stainless bull barrel with a carbon fiber wrap, but it has no pattern, just is black plastic.

It's not as cool looking as the ones with the weave pattern, but it's dang light, does what it needs to do, and holy cow, it made shooting easy. (It does not get very hot either, I can shoot many 25 round mags, and the barrel is not hot other than at the stainless steel parts, the "carbon" part does not heat up much at all.)

It is totally light weight. I was sort of shocked at first, but now will never own another heavy barrel 1022 if I can avoid it.

I did the "gunsmithing" work on my bolt with a diamond stone, and dremel to polish when it was square/cut. I followed the advice here, and cut the face of the bolt to remove excess where it was not needed, and cleaned up the factory machine work to make it smooth. Then I coated the bolt with molydisulfied I use in automotive/engines on piston skirts and bearings. It holds oil in place, and aids with lubrication, and it has a nice dark gray color too.

I also cleaned up the reciever, and coated it on the inside too with the moly, and outside with cheap .97 cent WalMart rattle can flat black that was then baked in the oven at 400f. (Has held up very well, prep work is 99% of a good paint job.)

I also coated the shiny parts of the barrel, same deal, has held up excellent, but I only baked it at 180f.

Added a sharp extractor and new spring, power custom hammer/spring setup, with some work done to polish it up. (I did my own original parts, but on a whim, tried the PC stuff, and it was better, so I've kept using it.)

Over travel is limited by a short pin inside the plunger spring, so you can't move the trigger back too far. And the PC trigger has short take up, and a crisp light break and short re-set.

While I had the barrel out doing the coatings, and after many years of use, I noticed that the stock bolt had beaten a pattern into the face of the barrel/breach. I used my diamond stone, and a 90 square taped to the barrel to keep it correct, to cut the face of the breach, and then polished it, and then coated it with moly. It stays cleaner now, and the moly coatings seem to hold up very well to this type of abuse where the bolt face is smacking against the breach with each round fired. (Both the bolt and breach face of the barrel are nice and flat now, unlike how it was stock, so I suppose that spreads loads around better with no high points hitting high points.)

Oh, and a poly buffer.

That's about it.

Shoots nickles at 100 yards all day long if I do my part with bulk ammo.

With Ely match, I've made single hole 3 shot groups at 100 yards.

A frind with a match/race gun using all Tactical Solutions parts does not shoot any better with the same ammo. (He's impressed with my "parts nightmare" 1022, and it's no where as fancy looking as his thumb hole stock, fluted alloy barrel, and billet action/bolt/trigger group, but Hey, I'm not over a 1k into my 1022 either.

For the optic, I'm using a 30mm tube Burris with a small red illuminated dot. The optic is about as heavy as the rifle. :) I think it's a 4x12x56? But I'd have to check, and it's on 30mm medium height rings, and just clears the barrel on the front.

Nice thing is you can really zoom in, and place the shot exactly where you want it with this optic, nice and clear, and great eye relief. (Want to say it's a 250.00 optic, but in my view, it's as good as many 3x that price that I've shot, including the fancy one on my buddies TS race 1022 that again, was over 1k, and honestly, is not any better, I think his is German, and while nice, it's not THAT nice.)

If I was you, I'd get the light weight barrel. It makes the rifle so much fun.

The rest is up to you, but the fine work at the bolt/chamber is what makes the rifle accurate from what I've discovered. Spend time or 100.00 there, and you get accuracy that rivals rifles costing much, much more.
 

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Here is what she looks like.

Here you can see how the barrel has a liner, ends, and the carbon fiber plastic around it all to keep vibration in check.

This was prior to my refinish work of course.
Now it's all black, and looks much better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The rest is up to you, but the fine work at the bolt/chamber is what makes the rifle accurate from what I've discovered. Spend time or 100.00 there, and you get accuracy that rivals rifles costing much, much more.
What you've done is pretty much what I'm looking to do. Bolt work, trigger work, lightweight barrel, and better optics. May go with the Hogue nylon stock, but the jury's still out. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, I'm changing my mind already. :lol:

Here's what it looks like ATM:


I'm thinking a GM 16.5" Fluted Sporter in SS might be in my near future, assuming I can find one at all...

Add a Kidd Charging Handle, Que Bolt Rework (including VQ extractor and blackening), once he resumes work, free-float barrel channel and barrel band, and I think I'll be almost done. For now...

The VQ barrel still piques my interest for lightness and accuracy, but I'm liking the "Super Stock" look. It's different, since everyone has a HB 10/22. And, according to GM owners, MOA accuracy isn't uncommon with the Sporter barrels... ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Located a GM 16.5" SS Fluted Sporter. Here she is:



A little more work left to do, then she gets a trip to the range so I can post up some targets. :lol:
 
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