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All, hopefully this is the correct place to ask and that the Moderators will agree. Unsure as where to begin or how to make a long story short, but I will give it my best. I just inherited a Norinco SKS and know absolutely nothing about the gun with the exception of what small amount of Google/Youtube research I've done the last day or so. All I can offer is a serial number, but given it's a Asian gun I don't even know if that will help. It came with it's original 10 rd. mag and a 30 rd and from what I've read the 30 is unreliable in some, if not most of all of these guns. It needs the cosmoline removed for sure (not caked or dried, but it's there), needs to be broken down and firing pin upgraded. Murray Gunsmith does a great upgrade from what I can see. Reliability is what I'm ultimately looking for in a mag, so the 30 rd while it is nice to have the extra rounds, I'm pretty sure with some stripper clip practice it won't make much difference. So in closing, I would kindly ask for guidance as where to start and where to get educated about this gun. Regards,

Billy Ted
 

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If it were mine I'd do a thorough cleaning.In other words, get rid of the cosmoline.Hard to believe it NEEDS firing pin work,SKS are tough .Mine seems sloppy,but never has let me down.I've never had a large mag,and now probably never will(living in Cuomoland).The stock 10 round has served well and shows no sign of failing.As I said "If it were mine" I'd clean it and do everything to make it factory original.Just my opinion.Hope you grow to enjoy it as much as I do mine.

Pete
 

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Clean the thing and shoot it. SKS are totally reliable and will eat anything you feed it.
Never heard of a fireing pin upgrade for SKS. That is a mini 30 issue.
 
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Yeah I guess if you are shooting boxer primed ammo. The return spring mod is a good idea. All I use in my SKS is berdan primed so I have never had an issue with slam fire.
When the OP said fireing pin upgrade I took it to mean a better, harder, fireing pin
Like you can do a Mini 30, to make it shoot berdan primed ammo better.
Re stripoper clips. I can load 10 rounds in my SKS with a stripper as fast as I can insert a mag in my Mini.
IMO the best way to learn about these guns is hands on.
Strip it completly down and clean it. paying close attention to the gas system and bolt. There are some good vids on utube on how to strip and clean.
Then take it out sight it in and shoot it. They are great weapons, lots of fun to shoot.
You will need a front sight adjustment tool. They are cheap at most any gun store AK and SKS use the same tool.
 

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That cosmoline gets into everything and can make things not work as good as they could. My first SKS had so much gunk in the bolt that the firing pin couldn't make good enough contact with the primer. Had to clean it out before it would fire.

I got one of the above kits for my SKS. I reload 7.62x39 and wanted to try some reloads in the thing. It worked good.
 

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strip the sks down as far as you can.Put the metal parts in the hottest soapy water in your bath tub.scrub the bore and all the round parts with a bore brush,let it soak for awhile and do it some more.Drain tube,refill with warm,but not hot,raise everything with clear water,until it comes out clean.Heat metal parts with hair dyer until very warm to touch and bone dry.Let it all cool,oil it and you are done. I have used this on oil soaked wood using heavey degresser,citistrip or oven cleaner works good.Remeber the main key to removing cosmoline is HEAT and wiping it off with clean paper towels or rags till they come out clean,Oil soaked stocks can be unoilsoaked with a pasted sold by Brownells,
 

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Kerosese is the best thing I have ever used to remove cosmoline. It strips it off fast.
It helps if the kerosene is warm. When soaked in kero you will see the cosmoline just fall off in globs.
I set a bucket with about 1/2 gal in the sun to warm it up. Strip the gun completly down. Soak all parts in the warm kero. Use a soft brush and rag to spredad kero on the bigger things like the barrel reciever. After soaking the bolt I clean out the hard to get to areas with aresol carbeurator cleaner. Also spray out the gas system ports.
You may have to set the gun by a heater to soften up the cosmoline to seperate the barrel/reciever from the stock.
To get the cosmoline out of the stock. Set the stock by a heater till the cosmoline bleeds out the poors and wipe off with Dawn detergent and warm water. Repeat if needed.
Once stripped down I can easly clean and reasemble in an hour.
Be sure to wear safety glasses and use some rubber gloves.
 

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I just wanted to add that if your 30 round mag is one of the original U.S.A. magazines from the 90's, (it will be stamped on the side of the magazine towards the bottom), those are the best after-market magazines ever made for the SKS. I wish I'd bought more back in the day. They actually feed and hold the bolt open on the last round.
 

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Texas
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Lots of good advice here. I've shot over a hundred SKS' over the years, and prefer the Norinco for its accuracy. Sorry Russian owners. Probably due to less wear when you get them, IDK.

Do not replace the firing pin unless you have to. If you use M67 Yugo, probably the most accurate round for the SKS, the Murray firing pin may not crush the primers consistantly.

What causes slam fire is a dirty FP channel. TAKE THE BOLT APART and clean it thoroughly!. It should rattle freely. If it does not, it could slam fire.

A properly set up SKS should NOT make ANY noise when shaken vigorously EXCEPT for the firing pin.

Also, Keep your original magazine on the rifle. It's what works best. In my opinion, anyone who feels they need a detachable, hi-cap mag on their SKS, should've saved another $100 and bought an AK. I'm not an SKS purist, but the factory firing pin and magazine work best if properly maintained. I am an advocate of the Choate ambidextrous stock, and the NCstar BARE gas tube (Bare in the respect that the hand guard is left off). Properly fitting these two after market options will greatly improve accuracy. I have the targets to prove it.

Good Luck!
 

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I'm with Tommygunner,Kerosene is one of the best things to remove cosmoline it's what I used to clean both my SKS rifle many years ago when I purchased them. My Chinese was very easy as it just had a very light coat on the metal surfaces whereas my YUGO basically was encased in the stuff. It took only a couple hours to do the Chicom rifle and about a whole day to do the YUGO.

A couple stiff bristle toot brushes,some tooth picks or plastic picks to get into small areas and some high pressure air will all work wonders.

As far as the bolt goes I never totally dissembled one as I saw no real need to do so. Cosmoline is basically a waxy grease that is easily dissolved by heat,boiling the bolt will loosen and dissolve the cosmoline which can be easily removed by blowing out the channel from front to back with the bolt tilted back and forth. Repeat the process as many time as need till the firing pin rattles like a baby rattle and moves easily from front to back when tilted. Finish off the process by flushing the firing pin channel out with some cheap Wallyworld brake cleaner and leave the firing pin and channel completely dry with no lubrication.

If you feel more comfortable taking the bolt completely down by all means do so as it's your rifle but I haven't and both my SKS rifles have have run flawlessly with steel case and handloads using the appropriate hard primers for over ten years with no issues. After a shooting secession I always hose down the bolt and firing pin channel from front to back with brake cleaner before reassembly.

The Chicom SKS rifle are very good rifle and have the most variants of all the SKS rifle. The original factory 26 rifles were built with Russian parts on Russian equipment and the Chinese were train by the Russians techs on how to build and assemble those rifles. Of all the SKS rifles I've owned and shot the Chinese versions will cycles reloads with the lowest chamber pressures. With cast bullet handloads my Chinese will cycles with a MV of 1400 fps. and drip the brass right at my feet while all other SKS versions have to be hand cycles with that load.

Basically all SKS rifles are clones for the original Russian SKS rifles with a few slight cosmetic variations but all the inner working are the same on all rifle regardless of country of origin. For a more detail explanation of parts and variations you can look here Yooper John

For basic SKS info you can look here Collecting and Shooting the SKS Carbine - HISTORY or here Survivor's SKS Boards - Index
 

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The Poly Grip Kid
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This is probably the best mod you can do to the firing pin block if you plan on using detachable mags which will allow you to safely load the mag in the receiver with the bolt closed otherwise you will have to insert and detach the mag with the bolt open.

Here is a instruction guide I made to show how to safely remove the rails
however if you notice the above picture it is not necessiary to totally remove the rails

the firing pin spring will prevent slam fires however as long as you disassemble the firing pin and clean out the block on a regular basis you should have no problems with slam fires.

one of the best hi cap mags I have found is the 20 round tapco mags.
 

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For extra info, you might try "SKSboards". They even have forums for the Albanian and Romanian types.

I just bought an actual M59: no launcher, no gas valve, in excellent condition.
The bore only Appears to be chrome-lined. The Yugos are the only types with no chrome.

My common Chinese was acquired in '08 and a Tech Sight 200 was installed. Having never done any gun 'work' (zero), the Only challenge was the muscle to remove the rear leaf sight. Everything can be original again.

That Chinese has been my primary gun since '08, despite the multiple Enfields, a Garand, Yugo Mauser, FR8s. Why? Ammo prices. 7.62x39 now back to .23/round; "Gunbot".
Not far from prices in mid-'08, little inflation.
 

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Draw, Varmint!
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I've cleaned up several recently purchased SKS carbines. Me? I used a couple of rolls of paper towels, a handful of rags, and a couple of cans of engine degreaser that I bought at the auto parts store. (I, also, keep a shallow tray of kerosene on the bench that I'll, sometimes, let parts soak in.)

You'll need two large blocks of wood, a big heavy hammer; and a properly sized, machinist's, drift punch in order to remove the retaining pin that holds the firing pin in place. (Occasionally, a retaining pin will come out with little effort; but most of mine were, 'bears' to get out.) The most critical part of cleaning Cosmoline from an SKS is to make sure that the firing pin and firing pin channel are very clean.

These carbines REALLY DO NEED to have a spring on the firing pin. If you go with a, (desirable) 'Murray Safety Firing Pin' you'll get a spring with the new pin. An SKS WILL FIRE without an FP spring; but this is the dangerous way to do things. Here's a video that may help you to, at least, clean the Cosmoline out of and off the firing pin and its channel.

SKS: Firing Pin Replacement - Murray's SKS Firing Pin - Slam Fire Fix (HD) - YouTube
 

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>>These carbines REALLY DO NEED to have a spring on the firing pin. If you go with a, (desirable) 'Murray Safety Firing Pin' you'll get a spring with the new pin.<<

Ditto that... my bolt/carrier are on the way to Murray's as we speak. (so to speak)
 

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One thing I haven't seen anyone mention here is the fact that the magazine release spring doubles as the sear spring. Also, the face of the sear on most, if not all the chinese SKS's sits at a negative angle (meaning it's a downhill slope). If the spring gets too loose, due to wear or any other reason, it can allow the hammer to slide off the sear on it's own after you fire a shot, meaning it can cause "doubles" or even triples. This can obviously be a very dangerous problem. You can modify the angle of the sear to a neutral or positive engagement angle to eliminate the possiblity of this happening. At very least, be sure to have a good strong sear spring, but personally, I'd do the modification. You can get more info at various places online. Here's one: SKS Carbine Safety Concerns and Trigger Re
 
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