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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a couple of recent posts that relate to this. The recoil buffers is one and the muzzle crown is the other.

This is the cut and crown work I did. Barrel is at 16.5 now with an 11 degree crown.



On the target below I pulled that low one myself. I was on 6x at the bench with a range bag for a rest at 100 yards. The ammo was some Tula poly case and some Golden Bear. I am running the Wilson Combat recoil buffers front and back. I haven't taken the gun down yet to see how they are looking. I only shot 50 rounds today.

I think the one weakness my gun has is that it will spit out the ammo like there is no tomorrow which then impacts my financial condition.

I initially dialed the scope at 25 yards for a zero and shot a ragged hole of 20 rounds with no stringing, no fliers. When I went to 100, it shot 5 inches high but windage was dead on. I'm puzzled by this. I was expecting 3 inches for some reason.

The main group less the high and low shots is 1.2 inches. Including that 1 high shot it is 1.9 inches. I was aiming at the 5 so the high one may have been me caffeine twitching as well. There were a lot of people out there adding to the distraction factor. I was asked repeatedly by various people what kind of a gun is that????? Also, the gun is fracken loud.

***** Forgot to mention that I discounted the low shot because I pulled that one off myself. *****

At any rate, I'm happy with it now and can just enjoy shooting it for a while until I think up some other crazy thing to do.



Again I will stress that I did this on my gun to try and resolve some problms and am not necessarily suggesting anybody else should do the same thing or that you would get the same results. It might have been best to send my gun off to be smithed but money is fairly tight for me on gun stuff. I reserve most of my spare funds for car parts.
 

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I have to say that's a pretty good group for a mini. Just think what it will do with custom tailored handloads! I don't think you need to put any more dough into the rifle. The return on your investment wouldn't be worth it, considering your need for car parts. We do have to prioritize stuff ya' know!

fishslayerbob
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My new 1911 I recently bought was supposed to be a 3 inch cowl hood for the drag car. I also have a complete turbo kit to go on the air cooled German street/strip buggy. It is stored in my spare bedroom which has become a parts warehouse now.

I was putting the hot rod back together(newly ported and polished heads, new valve springs, valve job, new rockers, new new bling bling) and my truck broke so I had to deal with that. I still don't have the hot rod back together yet because I haven't finished fixing my truck which is my main driver.

This is what I do. I saved this from the scrap yard.


When I bought the gun it was MOA of pie plate at 100 yards which was 6 inches or so. It had really bad hot barrel stringing problems and rampant fliers. The gun would not shoot a group at all, cold or hot. With the factory stock I was getting a LOT of heat.

I got such a great deal on the purchase($450) that I felt I could justify some improvements so I did the following;

replaced the slopped out factory stock with an ATI stock which is very snug. I may eventually bed this stock. I immediately noticed the barrel running cooler due to ATI's venting design.

got an accu strut for the barrel

installed a Weigland Rail because one of the Ruger rings would not hold

re-torqued the gas block because it did not have consistent gaps on each side

added a 3-9x40 scope, Truglo first then switched to a Bushnel Trophy XLT(same power). The Truglo may not have been holding its zero or that is what it appeared anyway. I put it back on my .22 rifle.

did an ammo test and Golden Bear came out on top for best accuracy with Tula being not quite as good. Wolf was the worst and the dirtiest. I won't shoot any Wolf now.

That brought it down to 3+ inches but I still had some stringing problems and fliers. They were just less bad. It also still did not print a decent group.

After a great deal of more research and with a lot of trepidation that I might ruin an otherwise average shooting carbine, I decided to cut the barrel down 2 inches and crown it. I also went ahead and installed the Wilson 1911 buffers front and back. This is where I am at now.

The only other thing I may do eventually is install a simple flash hider on the barrel. I don't think that would deteriorate the accuracy any.
 

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I am running the Wilson Combat recoil buffers front and back. I haven't taken the gun down yet to see how they are looking. I only shot 50 rounds today.
What's the verdict on how far your brass is going with vs without the buffers? I've got some that I never used in my 1911s and I've been planning on putting one in the back of my Ranch Rifle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't test the barrel cut and buffers separately but together they reduced the spent case launches to 4 or 5 feet compared to double that before.

I plan to run some chrono numbers my next range trip to see how much my MV has changed. I ran just ran out of time and couldn't get everything done that I wanted.
 
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