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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

I am new to the forum, and I am pretty much a novice with firearms. I bought a new synthetic stocked, stainless Mini-14 a little over a year ago. From the first time I used it, I've had failure to extract issues. At first, being a new guy, I thought maybe I wasn't loading the mags properly, or the gun wasn't broken in yet. On my first trip to the range with 100 rounds of Winchester USA ammo, it failed to extract about 1 in 4 rounds, and I gave up after 30 rounds fired. I cleaned it thoroughly tried it again a few months later. This time I went to the range with Wolf steel-cased ammo and Winchester USA ammo. I had no problems at all with the Wolf ammo, but when I tried the Winchester ammo it FTE'ed within 5 rounds. I went home disappointed and cleaned it again. My third trip to the range, I went armed with a third kind of ammo, Federal American Eagle. Once again the Wolf functioned flawlessly, but the Winchester had problems. Also, the Federal ammo failed to extract within 3 rounds fired. So now, my conclusion is that it can only handle steel cased ammo, but there must be something wrong with the rifle since it won't extract brass cases reliably. I'd like to try to fix it myself if possible, but if that isn't feasible, I'll just send it back to Ruger for repair. But, I have a feeling, it may be something simple. From what I've read it could be the extractor plunger or the extractor spring. However, I don't know how to disassemble the extractor, plunger and spring. Any advice? Am I on the right path?

On another note, I got overzealous with my cleaning the last time, and disassebled the gas block. After doing so, I saw in Ruger manual that is a no-no. OOPS! It says that they torque screws to some spec at the factory. Do I need to be worried about this?

Lastly, I heard some say that the steel-case ammo is harder on guns than brass-cases ammo. Is there any truth this idea, or just a legend?

Sorry to ramble on so long. I'd appreciate any help.
 

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Hi guy, the gas block problem is a piece of cake. You need a feeler guage (leaf guage), and an allen wrench. Snug down the 4 bolts evenly using the guage to measure the gap so it is even all the way around the gas block halves, alternate the bolts, and torque to 17 to 25 in-lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench, snug means a medium pressure with a short allen wrench, not squeeking tight. Use loctite blue on the threads so they won't vibrate loose. The blue is temporary hold.
As for your other problem, is it failure to extract, or failure to eject? Load up a clip using the winchester ammo. With the safety on, and muzzle pointed in a safe direction, and cycle your bolt manualy. If the round is left in the chamber its extraction, if its picked up and removed from the chamber, but not thrown clear of the action, its failure to eject (a different problem). Give that a try, and get back to us.
 

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I've heard of this problem before. When you fire a brass-cased shell, the brass expands ever so slightly to the chamber size. This includes expanding the brass into little nooks and crannys in the chamber. When you fire steel-cased ammo, same does not happen because the steel is much harder and inflexible. Also, the steel-cased ammo is coated with a laquer that when cold is actually a lubricant.

The problem may be as simple as a burr inside the chamber that is holding the shell in place after firing. If you look at the brass after you pull it out, check it for longitudinal scratches on the case. If this is what's happening, you might have to go to a gunsmith to locate/remove it, unless you have the tools and skills necessary.

As far as the brass vs. steel case ammo and wear on the gun argument: Unless you are intending to put 10s of thousands of rounds through it, I don't see how these differences could possibly matter. I dismiss it as an old wive's tale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Cajungeo,

It is actually a failure to extract issue. The brass cases are left in the chamber, though usually not really that tight. I can usually pull the case out with my finger nail, and if that doesn't work a knife works fine. Also, thanks for the gas block info. I don't have a set of feeler gauges, but I think I may have gotten about the right amount of torque on it - I pull put medium pressure on the Allen wrench. I am not a believer in tightening things down as hard as my strength allows.

Satan,

Thanks for the rapid reply. I don't save any of my brass, so I don't have any around to inspect. But I will save a few from my next trip to the range, and I'll get as good a look at the chamber as possible using a light. Maybe I'll be able to see a burr or something.
 

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Good advice KC Ruger wants you to be happy send it in and they will inspect and fix anything you ask for as long as its a stock item. Also have them check the head spacing. If it is too loose the extractor will not catch the rim with consistency. As for steel cases I dont and wont put that stuff in any gun I own. I reload so it doesn't really matter. Steel should not be reloaded. The real problem with the steel cases is the laquer buildup in your chamber.:usa:
 

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Then if it is an extraction poblem I would send it to Ruger for repair. I had a similar problem, I had a burr on my boltface/extractor area, which I removed by hand stoning. I would not recommend this for the average mini owner. Ruger will fix it for ya.
 
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