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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there any way I can go about adding a scope mount to the top of the receiver?
Mine does not have any type of scope / weaver base up there.
 

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Many use a B-Sqare mount, it attaches to the side and places the scope over the receiver. I use one on my standard mini, you just need to use a medium loctite on the set screws.
 

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Is there any way I can go about adding a scope mount to the top of the receiver?
Mine does not have any type of scope / weaver base up there.
What series is your Mini?

If it's a "standard", i.e., not a Ranch Rifle, there are options, depending upon what you want to do with your rifle.

1. "Side-saddle" mount: Allows use of irons, similar to "see-thru" scope rings. However, scope is mounted awfully high for my tastes, and many have had issues with them working themselves loose quite often -- BLUE LocTite usually fixes it.

2. S&K or Wichita Arms mount: Rock-solid, low mount. However, requires removal of rear sight "guts," so using your irons is out of the question.

3. Scout mount: Solid, low mount that typically retains use of irons. However, forward-mounted optics aren't for everyone and do take some getting used to. In fact, half the people I let shoot my Mini hate my scout-mounted scope. But the other half love it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Please subscribe as this effort is going to afford some knowledge from all over.
Thanks in advance.

MY mini is a 185 series.

There are several points to this.

1. Not a factory stock.
Tapco Intrafuse

2. Tapco Stock has a top rail in front of the receiver, which I'm actually utilizing right now and want to continue to use.

3. Rail on front of receiver is manufactured in such a way that you can look through the irons and see clearly.

My issue is this.

1. Milling out a small picatinny rail section out of a $5 magpul picatinny add on rail.

Fastening this to the flat footprint on the rear of the receiver, near the rear sight.

This step isn't so hard. Main issue is...

2a. Finding scope mounts where the BASE is see through in-line with rear peep sight.

2b. Incorporating a see-through base to the footprint of rear of the receiver.

I want to show you all what I'm dealing with and I WILL make this work.

Pictures soon to follow after this post !

Also, I will ( hopefully ) NOW be receiving email on this instantly...

Thanks again in advance,
Rocco
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As she sits now with sight on top.


You can see the small Magpul rail attached to the rear scope base.
This is going to be machined to be only as large as it needs to be as not to interfere with extraction / ejection.
Also, it's worth mentioning that I HAVE tested this without the rail and it WILL eject across the room with the scope mounted at this height.
Keep in mind that the scope mounts I'm going to make will raise the scope slightly higher, as well.




Here you can see the space from UTG scope mount and receiver / footprint that is available on receiver.
Yes, it WILL be made higher with a combination of a milled out picatinny mount and see-through riser mounted to it ( to clear the rear sight, of course)

These measurements can only be obtained AFTER initial parallel measurements or barrel and factory sight line-of-sight are obtained AND front rail mount is machined and mounted.

As you can see, I'm putting a lot of thought into this as I don't like garbage work, nor are firearms toys to be decorate with unreliable / clunky gARbage...

Having said that, I WILL be replacing the bolt carrier release with a nicer handle, rather than the knurled brass threaded screw you see there. ( Don't flame ! It was installed as a test of functionality / durability of the internal mechanism )
Brass is MUCH easier to work with as far as building / refining an initial, "model" shape and angle for the lever. ;)



Amazon.com: UTG 1-Inch High 13-slot Hi-profile Full Size Riser Mount: Sports & Outdoors

This UTG mount looks as if it has a see-through riser design where the channel itself it open in the middle. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a picture of this mount from the rear, SIGHTED view...
Any internal viewing space / height can be made up at the mill.
Also, those awful thumbscrews WILL be replaced with some nice black hex buttons.
I've noticed in the above picture, this thing looks like it's only made to be mounted to a weaver dovetail... It IS described to mount to both, the customer pictures / descriptions reinforce this. Worth pointing out as something I noticed. Would be a silly thing to have halt a project, but, hey I guess that's what the milling machine is for, eh?
Assuming that it is designed the way I think, I believe it would be a good base to machine two short, custom scope mounts so I will be able to utilize the 3 different components I'm working with..

1. The 185 Receiver ( rear raised mount )
2. The Aftermarket stock with top rail ( front raised mount )\
3. The factory peep sight remaining fully useful for quick, not-so-far-out targeting. ( ....and that "Yeah, It's still on there and I can still use it fully" factor :cool: )

................:huh:

As an afterthought..

I'm starting to think I could mill off the bottom rung of a medium profile see though scope ring?
Anyone else agree?
This is why I'm posting this stuff.
Consider me ignorant and willing to learn.

The question is, does...



Amazon.com: UTG Max Strength Picatinny Rings (2-Pieces 1-Inch Diameter, High Profile, Compact): Sports & Outdoors

...have the integrity to have its' bottom center milled out. Keep in mind, line of sight is NOT through the riser ring on the scope mount, it's directly THROUGH the bottom rung of the riser ring.

Hope you all are picking up what I'm putting down.

I'd really like this to be received as intelligent questioning and not just ignorant, useless rambling.

Thank you again,
Rocco
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
.....update...

I have ordered the high strength mounts seen above.
Package comes with 2.
I'm going to use THESE as my starting basis for this project.

They're not extremely tall and still managing compactness / streamlined.

Apparently these are quite strong so I'm only going to assume they will be able to hold up after I mill out just a bit from the bottom through-ring.

Still very interested in everyone's thoughts.

Yes I'm sure I could just buy something or screw something to the stock, but If I can custom machine something, trust me, I'm going to go that route :)

Thanks for the posts with the names of those other mounts, I have checked them all out and decided that this IS going to be the best way to go.



A little math and machining never hurt anyone.... well anyone who's careful!
 
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