Perfect Union banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I got the 5/8-24 tool kit from CNC Warrior for a .308 with right hand threads. My flash hider is an AR A2 style for .308. I did the bullet test on the flash hider just to be sure and it drops through including the case neck so there should be plenty of tolerance. I did not have to tighten the thread cutter up much to get what looks to be deep enough threads on the barrel.

It took all of 15 minutes to do it. I couldn't find any red loctite so I had to go get some. Once it cures I will be out at the range testing it probably on saturday. I don't think the barrel gets hot enough to break the red loctite loose but I could be wrong on this. I've read that it requires over 325 to as much as 400 degrees to break red loose. I never ever run my barrel even close to that hot.





I found a decent youtube video on how to but it is obviously not the same as what I did;

Saiga 7.62x39 barrel threading - YouTube
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
Keep us updated, good looking project! ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
That's all I needed to see... I've done several of the AK's and SKS' but never a Mini. I had been wondering how the barrel would do with a 5/8 die. Looks really good.

I bet a dollar to a donut though that it will shoot loose with just the red loctite. I've never had it hold a muzzle before. Easily cured with a jam nut...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,399 Posts
That's all I needed to see... I've done several of the AK's and SKS' but never a Mini. I had been wondering how the barrel would do with a 5/8 die. Looks really good.

I bet a dollar to a donut though that it will shoot loose with just the red loctite. I've never had it hold a muzzle before. Easily cured with a jam nut...
Ever try green loctite? They have some high strength/high temp versions that are special order items through Midway.

Best,
Grumpy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Talked with CNC Warrior and they are sending me the jam nut for my flash hider. I won't have to worry about the loctite not holding after all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Ever try green loctite? They have some high strength/high temp versions that are special order items through Midway.

Best,
Grumpy
Shoot, that's new to me, never heard of it. If it's better than the red it'd be like trying wash the herpes off a cheap Saturday night date...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
hottarod, when you get that jam nut on there, post another pic, I really like the looks now. I was thinking of pinning mine on when I get ready to do it, but the nut would be allot less permanent.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,399 Posts
Shoot, that's new to me, never heard of it. If it's better than the red it'd be like trying wash the herpes off a cheap Saturday night date...
On reflection it may be too much of a good thing (too hard to remove).

I usually use it for tightening up loose pinned front sights and plunger tubes on 1911's. I've never actually had it break loose on its own.

Here are a couple versions:
http://media.midwayusa.com/pdf/reference/loctite_609.pdf
http://media.midwayusa.com/pdf/reference/loctite_620.pdf
http://media.midwayusa.com/pdf/reference/loctite_638.pdf

609 is for lower temps, 620 is a high temp version, and 638 is a super strong but moderate temp version IIRC.

Whereas the blue and red loctites are explicitly for threaded connections these are advertised explicitly for press and slip fits. Basically its such a bear to get off you could damage the threads so upon reflection it may not be what you want if you plan to replace the flash hider (ever).

FWIW I had a rather loose front sight on a Security Six recently; degreased with isopropanol, and when dry soaked 620 in then clamped it tight with a clothes pin. Its weathered 100 rounds of .38spl and 50 rounds of (hot) .357's and is rock solid - which is what I expected. Used it that way before and the stuff is a champ. Just don't plan to get it out of a threaded assembly (ever). Last time I had to scrape it off a part, I used a grinding wheel, since I wasn't getting anywhere with a wire brush.

Best,
Grumpy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Haven't shot it yet. I will post the result. The jam nut was just mailed a day or 2 ago so I don't have it yet. I might as well wait for that instead of sticking it in with loctite.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
I got the 5/8-24 tool kit from CNC Warrior for a .308 with right hand threads. My flash hider is an AR A2 style for .308. I did the bullet test on the flash hider just to be sure and it drops through including the case neck so there should be plenty of tolerance. I did not have to tighten the thread cutter up much to get what looks to be deep enough threads on the barrel.

It took all of 15 minutes to do it. I couldn't find any red loctite so I had to go get some. Once it cures I will be out at the range testing it probably on saturday. I don't think the barrel gets hot enough to break the red loctite loose but I could be wrong on this. I've read that it requires over 325 to as much as 400 degrees to break red loose. I never ever run my barrel even close to that hot.





I found a decent youtube video on how to but it is obviously not the same as what I did;

Saiga 7.62x39 barrel threading - YouTube
Are you putting the flash hider on a newer or older model mini thirty? I have a Mini Thirty I purchased new back in 1994 with the regular barrel. I want to add a YHM Phantom 5c2 Flash hider/competitor but I am not sure what my front sight options with the screwed on Comp on? I have a williams ghost ring rear sight on the receiver now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
My gun is a 582 series straight barrel gun. The jam nut got scraped a bit so I have some matte black to clean that up. I used red loctite anyway even with the jam nut. Hope to shoot it some tomorrow. I am fairly pleased with how it came out in the end. I may choose to get a combo hider muzzle brake at some point maybe.

I shot this to show that the bottom of the flash hider is not slotted. This is supposedly only to keep dirt from being thrown up if you are shooting prone. It doesn't really do much as a muzzle brake function. You can also see the barrel inside the flash hider. The table is one of my many other hobbies. Would you believe that somebody was going to just throw this away? I stripped it, restored it and picked up some chairs that match fairly well. Unfortunately, the center piece of the table is MIA.



I like my mini 30. It is parked in the bedroom corner every night. Something strange seems to be going on around my place sometimes. I found where somebody had moved some concrete blocks down to the back corner of my chain link fence so they could climb over easier. Those blocks were up at the back of my house.



As somewhat of an after thought, I think I should have used the jam nut and a thin crush washer or star washer between the jam nut and the hider. I may try that if/when I take it off.
 

·
AC-556 Owner
Joined
·
740 Posts
Id take the flash hider off now and clean the red loctite off before its really on there.

Using a crush washer is the best. Id you ever want to take off the flash hider you can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Hottarod, thank you for posting the info for the project. I have been thinking about threading my Mini-30 for years but I did not want to take it to a machine shop to get it done. I have been working on my ARs and I think its time to make my Thirty into a Tactical Mini with all the toys. Can a front sight like the Tritium from Xs sights along with a threaded muzzle device?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,791 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Thanks. I'm fairly happy with it now even though I'm in Ruger no mans land for factory repairs.

I have no idea what sort of front sight will work with this. I can't see to shoot irons any more so it didn't matter to me.

The gun shoots better than I do. I'm a bit twitchy. Free standing, I can manage 3(maybe more like 5, ha) inches. Gun is capable of 2+-" from any sort of stabilizing rest, bag rest, prone, sled with good ammo at 100 yards.

I can't use a crush washer on this. There is no flat on the muzzle for it to rest against. I keep one of those small snap and light torches around and I didn't use a huge amount of loctite on it so it is not much trouble to get the thing off. It will probably help some since I can heat just the hider and wrench it loose first. They actually sent me what I call a threaded lock ring and not a jam nut. I think I may try to find a more proper jam nut that has flats for wrenching on it. Smith Enterprise has one in 5/8-24 which is what I need.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top