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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Have had this Mini-14 for some time, it has never shot straight. Out of five shots, it usually sends two of them 10 MOA to the right and slightly up. It's a fairly new 583 series tactical, so it should be much better than this. It had some obvious machining tool marks which I cleaned up with 800 grit sanding paper, that made feeding much smoother. But then I noticed this in the chamber throat area, is this normal? I know the throat is supposed to be wider on the right side to make room for the extractor, but this protrusion in the top doesn't look normal to me? It pushes the bolt slightly downwards when in battery.

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What do you guys think? (Sorry about the sloppy cleaning, by the way.)
 

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what does the crown look like? Ruger has problems on some pistols with bad crowns causing crap accuracy, people sent them back to Ruger and they fixed the crown and then they shot very well...is that rust around the chamber?? looks dirty as hell in there...that can affect accuracy..
 

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It looks like the lip that goes around from about 5 o’clock to the piece you have circled around 1 o’clock position is cracked, and the cracked fragment has lodged out of place? Hard to tell from the photo, but that’s my first take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The crown looks good to me, even and concentric without any defects. (Some residue, obviously, again sorry for the sloppy cleaning.)
63792


I took a look at the chamber throat from a different angle, through the magazine well, and it seems that it's not anything protruding, rather some material missing from 10 to 12 o'clock. Nothing looks cracked, it looks machined. The gun came with a damaged extractor as well, which I had replaced. What does a "normal" gun look like from this angle?

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I also had the gas block refitted and evenly torqued, with a reduced gas port. Pretty much same results: The gun produces two groupings, usually three out of five in center, and two shots 10-15 MOA off to the right and slightly up. The two groups are usually 2-4 MOA wide, which I would consider normal for this kind of rifle. And I've shot it from a sandbag rest with two different scopes, as well as the iron sights, and had a couple of friends try it with same results. So inconsistent shooting, loose sights, bad scope and everything else is pretty much ruled out.

Edit: I have also tried several different ammo loads, including 55 gr FMJ, 62 gr FMJ, 69 gr SMK, 69 gr Lapua Scenar and some others. Some group better than others, but still with the usual "two out of five shots 10 MOA to the right".
 

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The crown looks good to me, even and concentric without any defects. (Some residue, obviously, again sorry for the sloppy cleaning.)
View attachment 63792

I took a look at the chamber throat from a different angle, through the magazine well, and it seems that it's not anything protruding, rather some material missing from 10 to 12 o'clock. Nothing looks cracked, it looks machined. The gun came with a damaged extractor as well, which I had replaced. What does a "normal" gun look like from this angle?

View attachment 63793

I also had the gas block refitted and evenly torqued, with a reduced gas port. Pretty much same results: The gun produces two groupings, usually three out of five in center, and two shots 10-15 MOA off to the right and slightly up. The two groups are usually 2-4 MOA wide, which I would consider normal for this kind of rifle. And I've shot it from a sandbag rest with two different scopes, as well as the iron sights, and had a couple of friends try it with same results. So inconsistent shooting, loose sights, bad scope and everything else is pretty much ruled out.

Edit: I have also tried several different ammo loads, including 55 gr FMJ, 62 gr FMJ, 69 gr SMK, 69 gr Lapua Scenar and some others. Some group better than others, but still with the usual "two out of five shots 10 MOA to the right".
Not an expert on 583 series minis, but the chamber area looks pretty gnarly to me. Others, more familiar with this model will know better, but that area looks much different on my 186 series. I suggest you consider sending it back to Ruger, with your complaints in writing. If I'm right, that appears to be a manufacturing defect, and Ruger will set it right, likely at little/no cost to you.

If you go this route, I suggest you also consider obtaining some "factory-fitted" spare parts, such as firing pin, extractor, ejector, plus all the ancillary bits and pieces for the latter two. You will need to pay for these extra parts, but it's money in the bank, especially if Biden makes spare parts hard to obtain in the future.
 

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Without a bore scope to look at the chamber where the round seats what you are showing does not affect seating. Ten MOA is nearly a safety issue in that the rounds aren't chambering (seating) properly. Spent brass, do the necks show excessive burn marks from blow by? I suppose where you have focused could with excessive material, prevent the bolt from going completely into battery? Send it back for a look at or a local guy with a scope and the ability to check it out.
 

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My newer mini 30 tactical looks exactly the same. Totally normal. Mine shoots great. 1.5-2 MOA with cheap Tula ammo.

Worry not. Your not looking at the chamber...thats a recess cut for the extractor etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for your answers, guys. Seems like there probably is no easy fix for this, and that I have to bite the apple and contact the European Ruger distributor. The Mini is about to be banned over here though, so spare parts and replacement rifles are already gone. Hopefully, a skilled gunsmith can identify and correct the problem.

Because something's clearly wrong with the rifle. The finish is rough everywhere, which I thought might be a problem, but if other rifles look the same but shoot straight, that's clearly not the problem. Maybe I got a bad barrel or something.

Will let you know how it goes. I really love this little rifle, and I want it to shoot straight.
 

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when was the last time you gave the barrel and action a GOOD cleaning...if the gun goes boom each time you pull the trigger and hot gases dont hit you in the face and the casings arent all chewed up, and you get a few to group good..check your ammo..AGAIN and clean it, look down the bore to make sure its clean...
because it looks like hell from your pictures and dirty...that could be the issue or part of it...
 

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I wasn't going to go there but yeah, it looked like rust as in, do you live near the ocean?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
when was the last time you gave the barrel and action a GOOD cleaning...if the gun goes boom each time you pull the trigger and hot gases dont hit you in the face and the casings arent all chewed up, and you get a few to group good..check your ammo..AGAIN and clean it, look down the bore to make sure its clean...
because it looks like hell from your pictures and dirty...that could be the issue or part of it...
I can see your concern. But believe me, I've tried cleaning the heck out of it many times, with no luck. Btw, the dirt in the receiver area is mostly shaved off brass from the cases, it becomes like that after a short trip to the range. Something is obviously shaving a lot of brass in there.

As for the residue on the muzzle, it's because I removed the flash hider. The residue was stuck between the flash hider and the muzzle.

So, yeah, I know it looks dirty, but it just isn't all that bad. The barrel is still squeekingly clean and shiny inside. :)

@chill1955 I live in the inlands, relative humidity here is below 10% in the winter, and around 40%-50% in the summer. And no salty sprays in the air either. The stuff you're seeing are fine brass shavings.

Edit: And my gun locker is located in a climate controlled room with a constant 45% humidity, to be sure to avoid rusty guns.
 

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I can see your concern. But believe me, I've tried cleaning the heck out of it many times, with no luck. Btw, the dirt in the receiver area is mostly shaved off brass from the cases, it becomes like that after a short trip to the range. Something is obviously shaving a lot of brass in there.

As for the residue on the muzzle, it's because I removed the flash hider. The residue was stuck between the flash hider and the muzzle.

So, yeah, I know it looks dirty, but it just isn't all that bad. The barrel is still squeekingly clean and shiny inside. :)

@chill1955 I live in the inlands, relative humidity here is below 10% in the winter, and around 40%-50% in the summer. And no salty sprays in the air either. The stuff you're seeing are fine brass shavings.

Edit: And my gun locker is located in a climate controlled room with a constant 45% humidity, to be sure to avoid rusty guns.
ok try this experiment..anything shaving brass will be shiny, so get a black magic marker and turn everything in and or around the chamber black, shoot a few rounds and you will see whats rubbing or wearing as it will be shiny or brass colored...then see what you have and go from there..
also what kind of ammo are you using? reloads, factory? try some steel cased ammo and look for markings on the case..
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok try this experiment..anything shaving brass will be shiny, so get a black magic marker and turn everything in and or around the chamber black, shoot a few rounds and you will see whats rubbing or wearing as it will be shiny or brass colored...then see what you have and go from there..
also what kind of ammo are you using? reloads, factory? try some steel cased ammo and look for markings on the case..
I will do that. I suspect the uneven, sharp ledge in the receiver, just below the barrel throat.
 

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I can't really tell but it almost looks like an after market barrel. We didn't get to see enough of it to know if it was a factory barrel or something from a gun smith. Your muzzle looks good. I'm going to assume you took the flash hider off and that is a thread protector. You didn't say if you were shooting reloads or factory ammo. Do you have this on a wood stock or synthetic stock ?

My Mini's shed some brass from somewhere too. I don't find that unusual. I think you have a bedding problem. That is why I asked about a wood or synthetic stock. If you have had the action in and out of the stock on a regular basis the receiver does not get to settle in and you will get flyers. I believe it's called harmonic settling.

That part you have circled does not look normal. If the bolt locks up good other than that little spot you have marked I think I would take it off. I find it hard to believe that belongs there. I don't see a problem with taking it off with a file or possibly a Dremel. I hate to use the word Dremel and guns in the same sentence but I see no reason to have that there. It looks like it was dinged during the barrel installation and was missed during quality control (QC)

kwg
 

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I can't really tell but it almost looks like an after market barrel. We didn't get to see enough of it to know if it was a factory barrel or something from a gun smith. Your muzzle looks good. I'm going to assume you took the flash hider off and that is a thread protector. You didn't say if you were shooting reloads or factory ammo. Do you have this on a wood stock or synthetic stock ?

My Mini's shed some brass from somewhere too. I don't find that unusual. I think you have a bedding problem. That is why I asked about a wood or synthetic stock. If you have had the action in and out of the stock on a regular basis the receiver does not get to settle in and you will get flyers. I believe it's called harmonic settling.

That part you have circled does not look normal. If the bolt locks up good other than that little spot you have marked I think I would take it off. I find it hard to believe that belongs there. I don't see a problem with taking it off with a file or possibly a Dremel. I hate to use the word Dremel and guns in the same sentence but I see no reason to have that there. It looks like it was dinged during the barrel installation and was missed during quality control (QC)

kwg
I concur with remarks above. Given OP not being in the US (my fault in not seeing this), either take it to a trusted local gunsmith or perform the removal yourself, given the hassles of international shipment of firearms.

If I were to do this, I would solidly affix the barreled action (minus stock) in a vise, and use a Dremel tool (both hands!) with a small, fine, sanding drum affixed, to remove the circled projection. Make sure to have good light on the area!

IDK if this will entirely solve your problem, but it will at least eliminate something that ought not be there.

Other posters have mentioned "Brass shavings" in their comments. Presumably such "shavings" are from ctg cases.

I have NEVER seen such "shavings" on my 186 Mini. Granted, it was sent back to Ruger for replacement parts, and with a side comment about inaccuracy. Ruger carefully fitted/headspaced a new bolt, and things were MUCH better after that, with accuracy being much improved.

My suspicion is that in some barrels, the entry path of the ctg might meet a sharp edge of the barrel or even the receiver near the barrel, and so suffer some damage, or "shaving" of brass from ctg case.

As a re-loader, I consider this damage to ctg cases unacceptable.

The solution is obvious: Either send it back to Ruger, or find a gentle way to chamfer such sharp edges that are damaging your reloadable brass.
 

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Just for your info the throat of the barrel is in front of the chamber.
What you are calling throat is really the breech.
Terminology counts for others understanding.
Looks like it was hit by something does no look right.
I would send it to Ruger or take it to a gunsmith for
evaluation. Get a trigger job while there..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just for your info the throat of the barrel is in front of the chamber.
What you are calling throat is really the breech.
Terminology counts for others understanding.
Looks like it was hit by something does no look right.
I would send it to Ruger or take it to a gunsmith for
evaluation. Get a trigger job while there..
Thanks for the correction, that makes sense. Gun terminology isn't my first language, and neither is English, so I'm alway eager to learn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I can't really tell but it almost looks like an after market barrel. We didn't get to see enough of it to know if it was a factory barrel or something from a gun smith. Your muzzle looks good. I'm going to assume you took the flash hider off and that is a thread protector. You didn't say if you were shooting reloads or factory ammo. Do you have this on a wood stock or synthetic stock ?

My Mini's shed some brass from somewhere too. I don't find that unusual. I think you have a bedding problem. That is why I asked about a wood or synthetic stock. If you have had the action in and out of the stock on a regular basis the receiver does not get to settle in and you will get flyers. I believe it's called harmonic settling.

That part you have circled does not look normal. If the bolt locks up good other than that little spot you have marked I think I would take it off. I find it hard to believe that belongs there. I don't see a problem with taking it off with a file or possibly a Dremel. I hate to use the word Dremel and guns in the same sentence but I see no reason to have that there. It looks like it was dinged during the barrel installation and was missed during quality control (QC)

kwg
The barrel is original to the gun and no work has ever been done to it, except a trigger polish job. I bought the gun brand new in a box from an official Ruger dealer. And yes, I took the flash hider off and replaced it with a thread protector. I didn't really need a flash hider for hunting roe deer. By the time the deer has the opportunity to see the muzzle flash, it would probably already be too late for the poor fellow.

The gun sits in its original synthetic stock. I have tried both a Hogue overmold and an original wood stock, but eventually came back to the original one. I didn't notice any big difference in accuracy from one stock to another, but then again I haven't tested this exentsively. Can poor bedding cause accuracy problems of this scale?

I use both factory and handloaded ammo. The handloads seem to group a tad better, but nothing huge, and certainly not enough to solve the problem. When the groups are 10-12 MOA, shrinking them by 2 MOA doesn't really do much good.

Factory ammo I have tested is, among others, American Eagle 55 gr FMJ, Winchester 55 and 62 gr FMJ, GGG 55 gr FMJ, GGG with 69 gr SMK bullets, PMC 55 gr FMJ. With handloads I have been using Nosler RDF 70 gr and PPU 62 gr FMJ bullets with different loads and lengths. With the Nosler RDF's, I think I can see a slight improvement in the groups, but still around 10 MOA.

I have ordered a brand new walnut stock which should be here shortly, I will take the gun back to the range when I get this.

I also have the impression that the gun is more accurate when fired offhand. My groups are just as good, and some times better, when firing offhand from a kneeling position (which is my favourite shooting position), instead of using a sandbag shooting rest. With all my other guns it's of course the other way around. So the thought did occur to me, that the gun doesn't like being rested on a sandbag, but it just seemed a bit far fetched.
 
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