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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Ruger mini-14. The top portion of the Gas block, Ruger part number #KMS03500 has a crack running parallel to the barrel down the middle, and half-way through the top piece's length. It is still functioning in it's clamping purposes, keeping the more important lower half in place. I want to replace this piece, but the manual says this is a factory fit piece only, that the rifle must be sent to Ruger. I do NOT want to send my rifle through the mail/FED-ex/ (definately will NOT use UPS!) I do not see why this top piece is a factory fit piece, as it is a measurable tolerance that must be standard on all barrels. I realize Ruger is covering their own liability on such a performance reliable part (the lower half is really the important piece). I realize there must be a torque specification for the retaining nuts that Ruger wants to oversee. My questions are;
-Has anyone else experienced this problem with the top half of the Gas Block?
-Is this problem common? (I think the previous owner may have overtightened the block retaining nuts.)
-Are there any prolific and varietal aftermarket Ruger mini-14/30 parts dealers and performance improvement manufactures (beyond the furniture and stocks) similar to those that can be found for the AR-15?

[This message has been edited by Erick (edited 05-18-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Erick (edited 05-22-2000).]
 

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One alternative is to replace the gas block upper with a Ranch Products scout scope mount, should that idea turn you on. It is the only aftermarket gas block replacement that I've heard of available over the counter.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That would be exactly what I was hoping to find since this model does not have the scope ring mounting rails/grooves (not a ranch). I kind of had that idea of machining one myself, however it is probably easier to buy. I looked for a website and info on "Ranch Products" but could not find anything other than a company called "Target Products" carrying magazine lip extensions for the 10/22 made by Ranch Products. Anyway, do you have any other info on them? A website or phone number would be perfect. Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I found their info in the back of the Guns & Ammo 2000 Annual, sitting only a few feet from my computer (there is a directory of manufacturers). I rely too much on the internet. Their info is;
Ranch Products,
P.O. Box 145,
Malinta, OH, 43535
(313) 277-3118.

[This message has been edited by Erick (edited 05-22-2000).]
 

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If you put the ranch rifle scope mount and scope on the non-ranch, you might also want to replace the bolt or ejector, or whatever it is that controls the angle of ejection. The ranch rifle ejects the shells at a lower angle to avoid hitting the scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I guess that is the idea for the "Gas Block" scope mount from ranch products. See, the gas block is towards the front of the rifle, (front nose of the stock). When mounted in this position, it would not interfere at all, but does block your standard sights. While it puts the scope a bit far forward for reasonable use, (and I guess it depends on the scope) I was more interested in using this particular mount as a tactical utility/accessory mount. I believe B-Square also makes a mount that positions the scope beyond the extraction path. The piece from Ranch products is $45 if anyone is interested. They do not take credit cards. MO or checks only, no PayPal. Thanks
 

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Brownell's carries the gas block assembly that you desire. FWIW, I overtightened two of the gas block screws on a friend's Mini 30. Now I'm going to have to drill the screws out. I've got replacements on the way from Brownell's. I hate this gas block design.
 

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Replacing the gas block is really not a big thing and as suggested above, you can buy the part from Brownells. Just be sure you don't lose the little gas tube which goes from the barrel and the gas block. It helps keep the gas pipe (or cylinder or whatever it's called which keeps the slide aligned) in place. Also, when you tighten down the allen screws, do it as you would tighten down the head of a car engine. Don't overtighten and strip them though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Do you know what the part number is for the gas block from Brownell's? I did not see it in their listings. I will continue to look anyway. Is there a blued and a stainless block available? Anyone know the torque specifications on the allen screws (Probably 10-14 pounds is my guess). As you can tell, I still haven't done anything about the crack: I 've been to busy buying new guns to worry about my trusty Mini-14 (besides, I have a mini-30 which sees more use). Thanks for all the info!
 

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My mistake. I can't find a listing for the block,either. FWIW, I took that crappy Mini-30 of my friend's to a gunsmith. He said that cracked gas blocks are pretty common with Mini's.

I don't know the torque, but it would for sure be in inch/lbs, rather than ft/lbs. He did say to tighten the screws diagonally, as was previously mentioned.

If I ever get this Mini back to my friend, I hope to never be in the immediate vicinity of another Mini for the rest of my life.
 
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