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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently acquired an Italian replica cap-and-ball revolver - my first blackpowder handgun. It is a .44 caliber open-top type that was probably manufactured in the early 70's. Would anyone care to offer some tips on the care and feeding of this piece? Any book recommendations?
 

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With your extensive knowledge of metallurgy (one l?) I doubt there's much I can tell you about maintenance on a black powder firearm. As for loading, you got me. I owned a .36 Navy repo once but it was stolen before I got a chance to try it out.

So what kind of revolver is it? Maker's name on it? Not always found on early repos (I don't know who they thought they were fooling.)
 

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It's been more years than I want to admit, but I'll see what I can remember.
Round ball only no patch, if a thin ring of lead shaves off when seating it's a good thing.
Powder 3F (fffg) blackpowder, start with about 1/3-1/2 a chamber full and seat the ball tightly onto the powder (must be below flush)
Cap the nipple (#11 cap is normal) and fire.
VERY IMPORTANT
If you are going to load more than one chamber before firing than cover the loaded chambers with grease (Crisco or patch lube) and cap ALL the loaded chambers, This is to prevent flashover or circle fire (when more than one chamber fires at the same time). I forgot one time and set 3 chambers off at the same time. LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE
When you finish shooting any blackpowder gun, you must do a thourgh cleaning of the cylender and barrel (Hot soapy water and patchs than clear hot water and patchs (if your water is hot enough the parts will dry almost as soon as they hit air) dry the parts and oil to prevent rusting. the frame and cylender pin should be wiped down and oiled also.
It's been over 20 years so I'm sure I've overlooked somthing.
Enjoy
TG
 

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I have been thinking that it might be fun to give the BP a try. I like the repo Colt-style revolvers, like the 1836 Navy and the 1860 Army. Actually bid on a couple but the prices went beyond what I wanted to invest. Maybe I'll look some more.

Hey, since the feds don't consider muzzle loaders to be firearms, buying one wouldn't violate my self-imposed freeze on gun buying, would it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My revolver was marketed by Hawes as an "Historic Firearms Reproduction Kit". It is called the Caliber .44 Navy Model. It has a brass frame with wooden grips and a steel barrel and cylinder. The cylinder is engraved with some Navy-style scenes. The frame is open on the top. The barrel is octagonal, not blued, and is held on with a steel wedge device. There is a bead front sight and a case colored loading lever slung beneath the barrel.

There seems to be a problem with the hammer/cylinder stop relationship. When the hammer is pulled back to half-cock, sometimes the cylinder stop will engage as the cylinder is turned by hand. I may need to get some parts for this revolver - any suggestions?
 

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I finished off two matching army replica kits for a old trucker freind and got to shoot them alot before he came back to Michigan to pick them up. Both where the 44 cal. Both guns shot just about 1 foot high at 30 yards. when I contacted the manufacturer they told me that they wher supposed to be that way because they shot at the belt buckles of other officers, it was the most visible target on dark uniforms.
Good luck finding the parts I don't have any Idea on how to get them for your model.
And be safe; use the grease over the balls!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all of the responses so far. I'm looking forward to taking this gun out and having some fun.

Do any of you know of some good online sources for blackpowder supplies? I am having trouble finding stuff locally.
 
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