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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've now put about 300 rounds through my Mini and I still can't zero the iron sights. They're all the way to the right and it still shoots several inches to the left. Today I did put a scope on the the Weigand rail I just got and I was able to get that zeroed in at 50 yards. It took a bit of cranking to the right before it hit center. Once I got there, the groups were pretty good with no signs of stringing or flyers. I'd say about 1.5" groups. I was shooting PMC Bronze and it shot well. You need to have iron sights that work though. I'm hoping Ruger can get it worked out and back to me in a reasonable amount of time.
 

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I've now put about 300 rounds through my Mini and I still can't zero the iron sights. They're all the way to the right and it still shoots several inches to the left. Today I did put a scope on the the Weigand rail I just got and I was able to get that zeroed in at 50 yards. It took a bit of cranking to the right before it hit center. Once I got there, the groups were pretty good with no signs of stringing or flyers. I'd say about 1.5" groups. I was shooting PMC Bronze and it shot well. You need to have iron sights that work though. I'm hoping Ruger can get it worked out and back to me in a reasonable amount of time.
i'm sure you have heard this, but did you even your gas block and torque it?

this has fixed this problem in many cases. i had to slide my site over almost all the way to the left, but it is now dead on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did think about doing that, but I'm afraid if I do it and it doesn't work, Ruger will not work on it because I tampered with the gas block.
 

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I did think about doing that, but I'm afraid if I do it and it doesn't work, Ruger will not work on it because I tampered with the gas block.
That's not true. That will have no effect on Ruger deciding to repair your rifle.
 

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I did think about doing that, but I'm afraid if I do it and it doesn't work, Ruger will not work on it because I tampered with the gas block.
I agree, let Ruger do the gunsmithing. If gas block torque is the issue, it shouldn't have left the factory that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Personally, I think the barrel might be tweaked from putting on the front sight. Is there a way to easily check to see if the barrel is straight? How about if the front sight is straight?
 

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interested in the end result, please keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I just got off the phone with Ruger. The guy I spoke with was very nice. Hopefully, the techs be as good as he was. UPS will be picking up the rifle tomorrow and, according to the service rep, the turnaround should be about a week. Here's hoping.
 

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Well,
I had a similar problem, took it back to the shop where I bought it, the "gunsmith" fixed it . . not!
I took the advice of some folks here and adjusted the gas block screws (torqued them properly). It now shoots nice tight groups, on target, I'm just not that good of a shot.
Good luck.
 

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Well,
I had a similar problem, took it back to the shop where I bought it, the "gunsmith" fixed it . . not!
I took the advice of some folks here and adjusted the gas block screws (torqued them properly). It now shoots nice tight groups, on target, I'm just not that good of a shot.
Good luck.
I'm very interested in this.

What value, and was it inch pounds or foot pounds, did you retorque your gas block screws to?

Bill
 

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Personally, I think the barrel might be tweaked from putting on the front sight. Is there a way to easily check to see if the barrel is straight? How about if the front sight is straight?
This was the case with my M30. I couldent get my irons or scope to zero. I couldent install my new ultimak rail either (the inside of which is machined to fit perfectly snug against the barrel) as my barrel was "bowed" from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well, the UPS guy picked up the rifle today. I think Ruger should have it by Thursday. I'll post back when I either hear from them or get the rifle back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ruger just called and told me my rifle was on its way home from being (hopefully) repaired. It's weird though. I asked the lady if she knew what they did to the rifle and she read back to me, "repaired rear sight, repaired bolt and repaired slide." The only thing they could have done to the rear sight to make it better, would be to move it to the right. Do they put the rear sights in the wrong place some times?? I have no idea what they did with the bolt and slide. As far as I know, there was nothing wrong with them. :confused: Man, I hope this thing is fixed and able to be zeroed with irons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My Mini came with two different hex type wrenches. The smaller of the two is used to adjust the rear sight. I don't know about older Minis, but the newer ones have a peep rear sight. In order to adjust the rear sight you need to loosen the set screw on one side, using the smaller hex wrench, and tighten it on the other. For example, if your rifle is shooting too far to the left (as mine was), you would loosen the screw on the right side of the sight (to allow room for the sight to drift) and then tighten it on the left side to prevent it from moving. In my case, I had it all the way to the right and it still shot to the left of the bull. To adjust elevation, it's simply a matter of turning the peep clockwise to raise or counter clockwise to lower.

Now that I think about it, I'm not sure WHAT the other wrench is used for!
 

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My Mini came with two different hex type wrenches. The smaller of the two is used to adjust the rear sight. I don't know about older Minis, but the newer ones have a peep rear sight. In order to adjust the rear sight you need to loosen the set screw on one side, using the smaller hex wrench, and tighten it on the other. For example, if your rifle is shooting too far to the left (as mine was), you would loosen the screw on the right side of the sight (to allow room for the sight to drift) and then tighten it on the left side to prevent it from moving. In my case, I had it all the way to the right and it still shot to the left of the bull. To adjust elevation, it's simply a matter of turning the peep clockwise to raise or counter clockwise to lower.

Now that I think about it, I'm not sure WHAT the other wrench is used for!
I think your bassackwards on the peep sight elevation adjustment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ACK! I just re-read what I wrote and you ARE right.:eek: Well, it wouldn't have taken him long to figure it out once he turned it.

Anyway, schmarty pants, what do you think about the things the Ruger tech did to my rifle to fix my gun from not being able to zero with the irons?:p
 

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I did think about doing that, but I'm afraid if I do it and it doesn't work, Ruger will not work on it because I tampered with the gas block.
i understand being hesitant considering how insane ruger's policies can be, but i actually called about the gas block, and the tech just told me to even it out. didn't seem like an issue.

i think you mostly need to be concerned about modifications, and re-torquing the gas block isn't really a mod, more of an adjustment. it helped my mini.
 

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ACK! I just re-read what I wrote and you ARE right.:eek: Well, it wouldn't have taken him long to figure it out once he turned it.

Anyway, schmarty pants, what do you think about the things the Ruger tech did to my rifle to fix my gun from not being able to zero with the irons?:p
LOL! sounds like something i would do. anyway, go ahead and re-torque that gas block when you get it back. just don't pull the screws all the way out, just pull em back, even up & torque them evenly. it usually helps.
 
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