I have been reloading since the 70's. I have had several conversations regarding bullet leade.
I have been told that for the best accuracy you want the least amount of bullet leade. The gap that a bullet must jump to meet the rifling will cause in-accuracy.
I have read that for the best accuracy you can soot up a bullet with a longer overall bullet length (not crimped), chamber it and close the bolt. Then eject the bullet, look at the soot and see if it has marks where the rifling grooves have touched the bullet.
The bolt of the rifle will push that bullet back into the case when it buts up against the barrel.
You then can measure the over all bullet length and load the rest of you loads to this length. I have done this in the past with my .270 and 7mm rounds.
What got me thinking abut this was a thread on a AR-15 .223 rem v/s Nato round.
It was stated that shooting NATO rounds in a colt AR-15 match target would cause higher CUP pressure because it was not designed to shoot both NATO and factory .223 loads.
Any thoughts?????
Larry
I have been told that for the best accuracy you want the least amount of bullet leade. The gap that a bullet must jump to meet the rifling will cause in-accuracy.
I have read that for the best accuracy you can soot up a bullet with a longer overall bullet length (not crimped), chamber it and close the bolt. Then eject the bullet, look at the soot and see if it has marks where the rifling grooves have touched the bullet.
The bolt of the rifle will push that bullet back into the case when it buts up against the barrel.
You then can measure the over all bullet length and load the rest of you loads to this length. I have done this in the past with my .270 and 7mm rounds.
What got me thinking abut this was a thread on a AR-15 .223 rem v/s Nato round.
It was stated that shooting NATO rounds in a colt AR-15 match target would cause higher CUP pressure because it was not designed to shoot both NATO and factory .223 loads.
Any thoughts?????
Larry