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I have been reloading since the 70's. I have had several conversations regarding bullet leade.

I have been told that for the best accuracy you want the least amount of bullet leade. The gap that a bullet must jump to meet the rifling will cause in-accuracy.

I have read that for the best accuracy you can soot up a bullet with a longer overall bullet length (not crimped), chamber it and close the bolt. Then eject the bullet, look at the soot and see if it has marks where the rifling grooves have touched the bullet.

The bolt of the rifle will push that bullet back into the case when it buts up against the barrel.

You then can measure the over all bullet length and load the rest of you loads to this length. I have done this in the past with my .270 and 7mm rounds.

What got me thinking abut this was a thread on a AR-15 .223 rem v/s Nato round.

It was stated that shooting NATO rounds in a colt AR-15 match target would cause higher CUP pressure because it was not designed to shoot both NATO and factory .223 loads.

Any thoughts?????:confused:

Larry
 

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I think 5.56 run at a bit higher pressure and when you shoot it in a rifle without a NATO chamber/leade it can raise the pressure. That being said, I have shot a wheelbarrow full of 55 grain NATO FMJ through a Savage .223 with no ill affects and no signs of high pressure. If you do this do so at your own risk.
 

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Roha Waha

I have reloaded since the 70's also, I was taught a little different, Here is what I was told. 1 Smoke/Carbon the bullet 2. seat the bullet using the barrels rifling
3. using the reloading press seat the bullet 1 to 2 Thousands of an inch shorter
4 re-carbon the bullet and re-chamber it to make sure the bullet is not touching the rifling " no clean marks on the carbon" This should put you at 1 one thousands inch back from the rifling. BUT on the other hand I have had other shooter swear that some rifles will shoot more accurate with the bullet seated deeper. I would try loading multiple batches of 9 rounds,each batch 1 or 2 thousands shorter than the first and shoot 3 / 3 shot groups with each length.
Now that would be a fun day at the range.
Be sure to take notes, use sand bags and post the results if you decide to do it.
I am going to do it with my Mini in a couple of weeks, thanks for the motivation
 

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In a bolt gun, some BR guys like to adjust OAL to touch the rifling when chambered. There is a big debate on whether this actually helps. I shoot tactical, so I load to OAL as recommended in the reloading manual. I use a detacheable mag system, so I too am limited. In 308, OAL 1.810 shoots .5 MOA in my rifle (SMK, 44 gr. Varget, Fed brass and 299m primers) and the round is no where near the rifling.
 

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You will just need to try it different ways, different rifles like different bullets different ways.

I load my Ruger 25-06 115gr Ballistic tips at .002 off the lands but likes the 85gr BT's at Max COAL (Nosler Manual)

My Remington 270 likes 130 Accutips at .005 off the lands

My Remington 30-06 likes more freebore so I set those to Max COAL or seat to the cannelure if I'm using that type of bullet.

I use a candle to smoke my bullets, cleans easier. When I first started, I used a black sharpie and just used that bullet as a dummy round for die adjustment later.
 

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:DI think that many feathers has it right!Each gun seems to have a personality of its own!From bullet to bullet types,weights,and powder charges, as well as seating depth-things very!Heres one to try-those of you with .270s,or .30-06's try to load your lighter bullets(270)130 gr to have the same POI as your 150 gr at 100 yds without changing or adjusting the sights.Same goes with 30-06,try with 150's,and 180s at 100yds.I bet you get more range time than you want-but it can be made to happen!:blink:
 
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