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It is a simple adapter plate I made that uses the Ejector screw and a screw thru the left rear sight boss to hold it.

I can make them for any Receiver Sight that attaches to the left side of the gun with a flat surface.

Here's a pic of the one I made for the Redfield Olympic. Redfield Olympics are around <$100 on Ebay. A Parker Hale Target Sight like used on an L39 is more like $400 and this one is actually a way better and more accurate sight.



Here's one showing a Standard Redfield or Lyman Receiver Sight Mounted to the gun. The adapter plates were available from Redfield in the 60's, Hens Teeth now, but easily made. You also have to make a longer Ejector Screw out of an 8-36 bolt. Good luck finding an 8-36 bolt as they are just about non existent nowadays. 8-32's are the Common #8 screw now. FYI the hole in the receiver is 8-35 !!!, and leave it to the British to do something weird like that!



Simple thing to make. I just adapted it to various uses. I also have a design that incorporates a small section of Pic Rail on top so a Red Dot Sight can be adapted.

Incidentally my L39 Replica is a 1.5 MOA gun with that sight on it. Not so much with the Stock Ladder Sight, which is not adjustable for windage.

Randy
 

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Capt. Killingfield; On your reloading of the .303 British round,, the hot tip is to only Neck Size the cases.

Virtually all #4 Rifles have longer shoulders in the chambers which since the case headspaces on the rim allows the gun to chamber any round loaded anywhere in the Empire. The shoulder lengths do vary from country to country.

If you set the shoulder back once or twice it makes the case separate just in front of the Extractor groove, thus requiring the case removal tool.

Here's a pic of a factory loaded round and a reloaded case fired in my gun.



You can easily see the difference. I recommend a Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die as is squeezes the case neck down on a mandrel instead of shoving it into a sizing hole. This works the brass much less.

I have cases that have been loaded 5-7 times with full power loads with no signs of failing. That "sign" would be a shiny ring around the base of the case. You can easily see that,,, and not fire that round and avoid the need for the extraction tool in the first place.

These three rounds were loaded with 150, 174 and 215 gr bullets to full power and you can see these were previously fired in my gun.



You can also see this tray full of previously fired cases and then the one in the last pic is a Cast Boolit Lyman 314299 and that batch of cases have been loaded many times as they are low power loads. I shot my career best Short Range Silhouette Score of 32/40 with that gun and those Cast Boolit Rounds.





Randy
 

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What makes daddy’s build so good looking to me is that he left the handguard, military wood look and the forend metal on it as opposed to just cutting the bbl, removing the military parts and dropping it into a regular sporter stock which isn’t anything special. Curious how a 1903 would look at 18.5 inches? My cutdown remilitarized ‘03 has a 21 inch bbl and really doesn’t look cut down until you look hard at it. I would have to find a donor without a rear sight base and use a 03a3 handguard and go from there.
 

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Capt. Killingfield; On your reloading of the .303 British round,, the hot tip is to only Neck Size the cases.

Virtually all #4 Rifles have longer shoulders in the chambers which since the case headspaces on the rim allows the gun to chamber any round loaded anywhere in the Empire. The shoulder lengths do vary from country to country.

If you set the shoulder back once or twice it makes the case separate just in front of the Extractor groove, thus requiring the case removal tool.

Here's a pic of a factory loaded round and a reloaded case fired in my gun.



You can easily see the difference. I recommend a Lee Collet Neck Sizing Die as is squeezes the case neck down on a mandrel instead of shoving it into a sizing hole. This works the brass much less....
Thanks for the tip. I have and use the Neck Sizing Die, as it came in my Lee Deluxe Die Set, along with the Factory Crimp Die.

These are a few cases, fired and un-fired, that I've Neck-Sized-Only. I'm sure there's a slight difference. I've never fired an actual store bought factory round through my rifle, only self-reloads, so I have no brass to compare.
But if I understand correctly, the brass flows (stretches) from the head forward. And everytime I reload I have to case trim, so the brass is going somewhere. So, eventually, even with neck sizing only, a blowout must surely occur?
I've always found it interesting that these rifles have a blow-out port in the receiver for such instances.

What makes daddy's build so good looking to me is that he left the handguard, military wood look and the forend metal on it as opposed to just cutting the bbl, removing the military parts and dropping it into a regular sporter stock which isn't anything special.
Very true. His looks professionally done. Highly skilled!
My barrel was chopped/re-crowned by a pro. The Clifton Scout Mount I installed while camping in the woods with family. I did the rest in the bedroom, kitchen and driveway because my brother-in-laws Chevelle had taken up the garage. My Lee Single-Stage was bolted to my computer desk back then. Now, years later it's bolted to an end table in my living room. Gangsta.
I would've loved to re-use those old original military parts, but my sporterized rifle was lacking those.
 

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Daddy, I've started gathering my bits and pieces together for the 18 inch '03 build that you've inspired. I have a couple of stocks that I plan to use, the big end is a gifted by a friend cut 1903 C stock while the front end will be an old Bishop sporter stock. The seam will be hidden by the bbl band like I did on my 21 inch bbl '03 build. Planning on using an o3a3 handguard as my donor rifle has a lyman recvr sight [no sight collar]. I was planning on using the donor for a target gun but I've realized that I'd rather shoot my .22 target milsurps than a .30 caliber. I'll start a thread when I start the work. Here's a family photo. Top is my 1919 Mk1, my donor for this build, the stock I plan to use,, a 1922 M2 and my 21 inch Springfield 'carbine'.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Mine isn't 18" anymore. It's closer to 16.5 now. Had to take some off to put on a Surefire Warcomp, and not have it hanging out too far in front. I'll have a suppressor one day...

Still looks pretty traditional if your not looking too close. Maybe a bit like a SOCOM 16 if you are...



 

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You just cut the exposed bbl back and threaded enough of it so that your warcomp would butt the sight base? A SOCOM Enfield, sharp. Would not have looked right with the skinny bbl showing and then the comp. Might have to see how my Vortex would look on mine. I put a butt pouch on my mini30/m1a but they make one with loops in a flap I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
You just cut the exposed bbl back and threaded enough of it so that your warcomp would butt the sight base? A SOCOM Enfield, sharp. Would not have looked right with the skinny bbl showing and then the comp. Might have to see how my Vortex would look on mine. I put a butt pouch on my mini30/m1a but they make one with loops in a flap I think.
Ended up taking another almost 1.5" off it. The barrel is just over 16.5" now, but that brings the threads right to the front sight where I wanted them to be. It looks right, is still legal, and I have enough room to mount the suppressor, or the Warden blast deflector.
 
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