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Arizona Gunner
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed buffers on both ends in my 581 and it still throws empties 20 to 40
feet! What do I do now? Smaller diameter hole in the piston? Who has them?
 

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PM GunDoc or Walkenbear for gas port bushings.

I run a .045" bushing and have had zero problems. Brass lands less than 10 feet away at 3-4 o'clock. .050" is another good size. It all depends on the type of ammo you're running. American-made commercial and U.S. milsurp ammo function just fine for me at .045". If you run steel-cased and/or foreign ammo, I'd say a .050" would probably be the minimum.

Best bet is to order a set of 3 or 4, ranging from .040" to .055" or so. Start with the smallest and stop when your rifle feeds and ejects reliably with your ammo of choice.

While you're at it, go ahead and order a new set of gas block screws. When you remove the original ones (which are staked at the factory), often there's a burr left on the end of the screw which can trash the threads in the top half of the gas block when you reinstall them. A drop of BLUE LocTite on each one will keep everything in place nicely once you've found the Goldilocks bushing. ;)
 

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Buffers by themselves are not going to slow your brass down very much. They do work well for keeping the op-rod from beating the receiver. The Mini is way over gassed and that is one of the reasons its so reliable.
 

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I went and purchased a set of 3 (.40, .45, .50) from GunDoc. First off working with Gun Doc was a great experience he's prompt, considerate and sent a great item. Secondly I used the .50 in my mini and it had my brass being thrown in a much more reasonable distance. Also I felt that the action of the whole gun was much smoother. It didn't feel as if the op rod was slamming into the receiver so hard. Not to mention changing the bushing gives you the opportunity to re torque the gas block.
 

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Arizona Gunner
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90 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks a bunch guys. I'll pm him and order a set.

Mine as it is throws brass up to 40 feet away!
 

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I went and purchased a set of 3 (.40, .45, .50) from GunDoc. First off working with Gun Doc was a great experience he's prompt, considerate and sent a great item. Secondly I used the .50 in my mini and it had my brass being thrown in a much more reasonable distance. Also I felt that the action of the whole gun was much smoother. It didn't feel as if the op rod was slamming into the receiver so hard. Not to mention changing the bushing gives you the opportunity to re torque the gas block.
My exact experience. Gundoc is great. I have his .50 bushing in mine.
 

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Runnin' and gunnin'.
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How would one go about installing the new bushing? Mine tosses 20 ft to the right rear to the point when i'm target shooting I gotta hang a tarp in the trees to keep my brass lol.
 

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First, you field strip your rifle (AFTER making absolutely sure it's unloaded...), removing the recoil spring and the op-rod/slide. Also remove your handguard (not required, but makes it easier, IMO).

Next, you'll need a GOOD 9/64" (IIRC) Allen wrench. Inserting the short leg in the bolt, loosen it by about 1/8 turn. Now tighten it back 1/8 turn. Now loosen 1/4 turn, tighten 1/8 turn, and continue this until you feel no more resistance. You have to do this process to essentially "re-cut" the threads after they've been staked at the factory (Ruger doesn't want us fiddling with their handiwork...:lol:).

Repeat that process on each of the 3 remaining bolts.

You can now remove your gas block. Depending on the age of your rifle and its maintenance history, you may have to wiggle it a bit to get it off. Some just fall right to the floor.

Remove your gas port bushing. Again, depending on your circumstances, the busing may just fall out, or it may require a bit of persuasion with some needle-nose pliers.

Replace with the bushing of your choice and put everything back together. Be sure to put a drop of BLUE LocTite on each bolt, and tighten them down alternately, ending up with an even gap between the halves of the gas block all the way around.
 

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Do your best to center the bushing so when you tighten it down it is not in a bind against the hole in the barrel and the gas block. It appears the side ways torque on the gas bushing and the gas block causes the rifle sights to be off center. kwg
 

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Do your best to center the bushing so when you tighten it down it is not in a bind against the hole in the barrel and the gas block. It appears the side ways torque on the gas bushing and the gas block causes the rifle sights to be off center. kwg
Is this why some people have trouble zeroing iron sites? Or adjusted all the way to one side?
 
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