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Has anyone here tryed to use brownells bake on finishes? If so please give details of the process and finished product.
 

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I have used these finishes several times. For best results bead blast metal handle parts with rubber gloves. After bead blasting I wipe off all parts with laquer thinner to make sure no oils from skin or air compressor are on parts. Spray parts as directed on can, three coats 20 minutes dring time between coats. Do not use your wife's oven to bake this stuff it puts out an ugly oder. It is a tough durable finish that takes a lot to scratch, if you do scratch or nick it, it can be touched up easy enough.
 

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I use a regular kitchen oven. It will take a barreled action with 26" barrel, if you put it in from bottom front to upper rear corner to corner, right to left. I made a Little stand to stick inside the muzzle, to keep it from touching. this can be a small peice of wood etc., as long as one end is kept open.
I hang the small parts from the oven racks, so each rifle or shotgun takes two 20 minute cycles.
I bought the oven because I do gunsmithing for a living, so it wasn't like it was a one time thing.
I talked with Brownell's Tech staff they tell me you can let this stuff air dry 3 to 5 days, but it is not as durable.
 

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I have done 3 rifles,3 pistols,2 shotguns with the satin black"this is very good stuff"You can get colors to match most parkerized guns and stainless,The finish doesn't have to be a high polish like blueing.Its very tough stuff.I use a older gas oven we have in the garage for canning.And use a small electric 110 volt oven "was the wifes old bread making machine"for pistols and small parts.I have also used liquid steel"make sure you get the stuff that can take high temp" to fill large rust pits that have been cleaned and sanded,and spray the baking laquer on top,cook it,I have one gun I did 3 years ago this way and its with me every day as my CC pistol,and not a bit of trouble with the finish.Aldo
 

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I was going to use some of this on an old SA revolver, that I have. The tolerances are pretty tight between the frame and the cylinder, is this stuff thick when it dries?
 

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I've used bulk brownells teflon-moly on many guns. I works well and is durable. I once did a 45 acp and got the coating too thick and the gun was tight. Some oil and working the slide got the pistol working properly. To answer your question, "Yes it can be too thick". They sell a thinner to thin the bulk spray. By the way I used a cheap walmart air brush to apply the bulk teflon moly.
 

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Just got through doing my Para-Ord P12 with it and had a prob to start with. I forget that I had given it good dose of MilTec-1 a while back and just gave it a general degreaseing with a shot of 90% rubbing alcohol then a wash down with acetone. Well the paint did not stick everywhere and it dawned on me. So I rubbed it down with some fine steel wool and this time it got a acetone bath. It still has a couple of places along sharp edges, very small, where it came off. Just goes to show ya how good the MilTec-1 is. Next time I do one it will get extra attention if necessary. Still looks good though.
 

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I painted my shotgun barrel with Brownell's Baking Lacquer but did not bake it. The paint flaked off in some areas so I degreased the bare spots and painted them again. I then baked the finish in the oven as directed now the finish is hard and does not flake. The baking made it bond to the steel a lot better. I'll find out how the finish lasts in time.
 
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