Perfect Union banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1st pin broke after about 2k rounds and the second just broke after about 500 rounds ! This is annoying - sorry for the rant. I'm shooting just XM-193. Should I be considering an aftermarket firing pin? From what I've read it looks like Ruger's should be the best, but this is getting to be a really heavy club....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
397 Posts
Sounds like your using aftermarket pins! Send it back ro ruger and tell them you want extras.
 

·
hostilenativelibertarian.
Joined
·
7,825 Posts
;)Show some pic's of the broken FP-maybe some of us here can determine the underlying prob's that can cause the breakeage.Then tell ruger to get it together!An aftermarket pin will do no good if you do'nt have a good one to copy from!Lots of "mikeing"and shapeing to do!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Both pins were stock Ruger pins installed & fitted by Ruger. They gave me an extra fitted pin last time which I guess I'll try now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49 Posts
I broke my first mini pin after 62 rounds through a new 582 series. It sure makes me doubt my faith in my minis. Why that thing has to be so hard to replace is beyond me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
This is the one issue that causes me to question the validity of my Mini-14 build. As good as it is in so many ways, I am reconsidering the M4 platform. Its much easier to control maintenance issues as compared to Mini-14 firing pin troubles.

If I continue with the Ruger I'll certainly want a couple pre-fitted aftermarket firing pins on hand. There's not a lot of Mini-14s in my immediate area and I know of two owners whom have shipped their minis back to Ruger for what can only be considered premature firing pin failure. One is on its second go around to the factory. Both rifles are late model 582 series with no mods outside of trigger work-overs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Althought I haven't ran any issues with my firing pin yet (knock on wood), it does make me wonder as well why this is the part it seems like Minis have the most issues with. Admittedly, mine had an issue with the mag release out of the factory, but that was cleared up immediately with the Tactical Mag Release sold here, but also Ruger sent me an extra mag release as well. Simple enough fix so I'm not concerned.. but the firing pin is something that always sits in the back of my head. Maybe I'm being overly paranoid and at the same time I don't want to waste the time to send it to Ruger to have another one fitted. Wish there was a better solution.

This is the only one I could find with good reviews. Might need minor fitting depending on your rifle.. but every time I check it, its out of stock - but even these I hear aren't as good as the factory pins.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/988708/glend-arms-oversize-firing-pin-ruger-mini-14
 

·
hostilenativelibertarian.
Joined
·
7,825 Posts
Everyone that has had a firing pin break that belongs to this forum-PLEASE POST PICTURES!Without group knowledge we cannot ascertain what might be the common problem with breakeage.It might be something that if shown on our forum enough that ruger will get off it's backside and correct this situation.At least a few of us with gunsmithing and metallurgical knowledge can make some judgements about cause and corrections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
An excellent idea. Squeaky wheel and all that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Both pins were stock Ruger pins installed & fitted by Ruger. They gave me an extra fitted pin last time which I guess I'll try now.
Really? they actually gave you an EXTRA pin that they sent back with your rifle? I didnt think they'd do that. I thought they demanded you send the gun back each and every time and would completely refuse to ever allow the customer to just install an extra pin on their own due to lawsuit fears or whatever...

If thats the case, I'm demanding an extra pin when I send mine back for a replacement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
jbgoode:

Did the FP break at the tip or elsewhere?

As mentioned, pics would be great. As you are changing to the new FP, snap a couple and be sure to check the protrusion even though Ruger fitted it.

I always dab a little dykem on the taper the FP stops on and the wide part at the front then tap the FP just like the hammer does to be sure the front does not touch but stops at the taper.

I believe there is a problem with corrosive ammo with stainless firing pins, but that is caused over a long time frame and not 62 or 500 rounds.
The bolt does move around when dropping the hammer so with the tip imbedded into the primer, and add movement, the tip is strained somewhat and possibly leads to fracturing. Just try dropping the hammer on an empty chamber and watch the movement yourself.

I lapped the bolt lugs and trued the face when re-barreling and have not had problems .......yet. This did help with reducing bolt movement.

I have just removed a Mini 14 FP made with un-heat treated 4340 but used only a few hundred rounds that shows no signs of distress. Tip looks good without any noticeable distortion.

Aftermarket(AM) FPs I have seen are soft. Way softer than the raw 4340.
The 4340 had a RHC of 41 but the AM FPs were so soft they barely registered on the scale. (20 or 21). I used a superficial and converted to RHC. This way the tester does not destroy small firing pins.

I did a case hardening on a couple AM FP tips that held up but do not have updated round count or type of ammo used. Only the tip was cased and drawn back. Not where the AM FPs are put together. I believe all AM FPs are two piece.

Below- Top is an early AM FP broken at the splice.
Later version has the tail added to the shaft. Some break there too.
center is factory 197 FP and bottom is a 188 factory.


Sorry about the long post .......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Interesting and educational post - thank you.

Disappointing regarding the soft A/M firing pins. I have a Glend Arms FP I was hoping to count on for a spare after having it properly fitted. It is indeed a two piece FP.

Believe I'll just send it back to Brownells and put the Mini-14 project on the back burner for a while. I was hoping to build a smaller & lighter alternative to the M1A but I think I'll just be staying with the good ol' heavies - at least a feller can work on them himself without permission from the factory :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
838 Posts
Just out of curiosity, Mini FP's dont look too complex in design, which for one makes me wonder why aftermarket companies cant make a good one, but I wonder if maybe having a bunch of them machined out of titanium or slightly hardened 5150 spring steel or maybe even a tungsten alloy with some of its brittleness reduced hasnt been done yet.

I'd certainly pay a premium for top notch, long lasting FP's made of an improved alloy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
For a machinist, making a Mini firing pin may not be that difficult.

For the rest of us laymen out here in left field, they are truly a pain.
Material is always a question. Titanium, IMHO, may not be needed or desirable as it can be difficult to know which grade to use and machinability is not user friendly. Way out of my league to work with this space age stuff.

On the other hand, Stainless Steel in the 17-4PH seems to fit and hardening is easy. Also similar the the factory firing pins. I believe all factory Mini FPs are stainless steel. Re-tipping factory FPs has been successful using 17-4PH filler rod and TIG welding process.

4340 is another choice that could be an answer to those using corrosive ammo.
Heat treat and temper is easy to achieve and toughness is up there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,394 Posts
Hi everyone;

No pics, but when the tip on my 581 series broke a couple months back, it was the very tip of the thing. It actually marked up the primers of the next two cartridges I tried to fire, since it was captive in the fp channel of the bolt. However, it also beat the bejeepers out of the bolt face. Ruger CS was outstanding in all regards and my rifle is like new now.

No corrosive ammo, steel case ammo, or reloads were EVER used. The cheapest stuff was the prvi partizan stuff that Academy sells under the "Monarch" brand, and the majority of the 4000 rounds were Federal/Lake City Arsenal .223 and M193 ball.

Don't know if this helps understand the 'broken firing pin' phenomenon.
All the best,
Grumpy
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top