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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Does 'regular' blued steel have any advantage over stainless?

IIRC, stainless is harder... and of course, less prone to rust.

Except for cost, why would anyone opt for blue over stainless?
 

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"IIRC, stainless is harder... " Stainless may be harder. Because it has a higher chromium content it also may be more brittle. If you do a goggle search of "stainless vs blue steel" you'll find a whole lot of opinions out there.

Years ago the argument AGAINST stainless was a condition called "galling". A negative situation when two stainless pieces came in contact with each other.

I'm not against stainless or for blue. My question is this though, "If stainless was a magic metal, why weren't all our military weapons made of it?"

Just a thought...........................? -AimHigh
 

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"IIRC, stainless is harder... " Stainless may be harder. Because it has a higher chromium content it also may be more brittle. If you do a goggle search of "stainless vs blue steel" you'll find a whole lot of opinions out there.

Years ago the argument AGAINST stainless was a condition called "galling". A negative situation when two stainless pieces came in contact with each other.

I'm not against stainless or for blue. My question is this though, "If stainless was a magic metal, why weren't all our military weapons made of it?"

Just a thought...........................? -AimHigh
I would guess the military uses blued for the same reason i get blued and that would be it blends in better then a ss gun will in most cases.
 

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I would guess the military uses blued for the same reason i get blued and that would be it blends in better then a ss gun will in most cases.
I'm no expert on the M-9 Beretta. The Mod. 92 FS has a black, Brunition finish but I don't know what kind of metal is under it. 92FS

Sig Sauer slides look black but are really "stainless". The P226 COMBAT has a Nitron® finish over a stainless slide. ( see P226 Combat )

Bottom line: You can't always tell by the look if a weapon is blue or stainless. -AimHigh
 

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I see your point but when it comes to the mini stainless is always that stand out silver and i was mostly talking about rifles not the handguns.
 

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WES213; I apologize. I hope you didn't think I was trying to underestimate your intelligence. I reminded myself (after I posted) that this is a MINI thread and not a generic "blue vs. stainless" discussion. You, of course, are correct.
 

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All good man and in no way did i take it as you are trying to best me here, and your points are just as valid i was just focused on the mini side as you stated. :)
 

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I like stainless cuz I am lazy and forgetful. In other words.... uh, I forgot the point.
 

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Typically a stainless barrel is more accurate, however in the Mini you probably can't tell the difference. Your best target rifles use stainless barrels. With a stainless rifle you can leave it in the trunk of your car and forget about it. You can also bead blast it and use a baked-on Gun Kote finish and you would never know it's stainless.
 

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Typically a stainless barrel is more accurate, however in the Mini you probably can't tell the difference. Your best target rifles use stainless barrels. With a stainless rifle you can leave it in the trunk of your car and forget about it. You can also bead blast it and use a baked-on Gun Kote finish and you would never know it's stainless.
Yea, that was the point.
 

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I always liked the mini in stainless..I grew up on the A-team and that was the first time I ever saw a Mini. Now for some reason I think a mini should be stainless with wood...
 

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My first Mini was a "blued" 580 series. My second Mini was a stainless GB model. Before my GB, I had never owned a stainless firearm before. It's still not my favorite finish, but I do recognize and appreciate the merits behind a stainless finish. My GB has the typical bumps and scratches of a police rifle, but it still looks fantastic. It kinda has that matte finish, and everything blends right in. A well used blued model wouldn't look quite as good.
 

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The old model minis in stainless had a reputation for "heat stringing"(moving POI) of the shots when the barrel warmed up, especially after rapid fire drills. I noticed this happening with my 182 mini after about 10 rnds. The blue old model minis were known to hold thier POI even with a warm barrel. I don't know if any of this still holds true with the new model ("heavy barrel", 580 & 581) minis.
 

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Does Ruger coat their Blue Mini Barrels with any thing or is it just straight metal inside the bore?

Note: All my Rugers are Stainless, even my Mini's both ranch rifles in 6.8 and 5.56. But only because the 6.8 came only in stainless and the 5.56 I got people's opinions last year what would be best for my needs for 5.56 Mini. It came down to barrel length and all weather capacity...again. Seems that's been my deciding factor for my Rugers every time I get them.
 

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I have both Stainless and Blued barrels. I like the looks of blued best but I also like the ease of maintenance on the stainless is a plus. If you hunt in humid or rainy areas the stainless will serve you better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The old model minis in stainless had a reputation for "heat stringing"(moving POI) of the shots when the barrel warmed up, especially after rapid fire drills. I noticed this happening with my 182 mini after about 10 rnds. The blue old model minis were known to hold thier POI even with a warm barrel. I don't know if any of this still holds true with the new model ("heavy barrel", 580 & 581) minis.
I wasn't aware of that. Read a lot on this forum about Minis stringing shots when hot & how to prevent it, but never heard that it happened w/ stainless barrels but not blued.

My stainless 188-series definitely does string when hot!
 
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