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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I got the target disease and want to modify a 10/22 for 100 and 50 yd target shooting. Highest accuracy. Suggestions for

Best affordable barrel? (Holt's cost $300+!)
Best affordable trigger mods ?
What other recommended mods would be important?
Can you make the mods yourself without special tools?
Do you need to send it to a gunsmith?



Is stainless really better?
Does mis-matched stainless colored parts really offend? (because it really has to look good!)

Hay, this is just the start. Here are more questions:
What is the best target bipod? Should you even use a target bipod?
 

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nantucketbob:

Will answer the last question first. Personally I think that a front/rear rest are far better than a bipod. Much more secure for bench rest shooting. Caldwell Rock is a great front rest. Sinclair rest are one of the best but also the most costly.

Stainless has the advantage of not rusting. I have not found that the stainless shoots any better than the blued. There are some pretty kool looking weapons out there that have both a mixture of stainless and blued parts. Your weapon.....you have to choose.

The Holt's barrel is a supreme barrel, but very costly. Green Mountain makes a match barrel. (Cost is under $100 dollars) I have and have seen some get great groups that even the Holt's barrel can not match.

As far as the trigger goes......you can spend hundreds of dollars for a full trigger assy. or just add parts. The two best trigger assy. are from KID 2-stage triggers and the trigger assy. from Volquartsen. You can also just buy for dollars the Volquartsen target hammer (which come with the shims and springs) and will reduce the trigger play and pull by more than half and will be very crisp.

You can do the auto-bolt release by your self with the aid of a dremal tool and add a extended magazine release. All of this can be done by yourself and you do not need a gunsmith. Just get a 10/22 carbine and go to work. Oh yes, a new stock is a must....have fun trying to figure out which one you want. Cost can go from $99 dollars up to $1000. :eek:

Welcome to the addiction of the year. 10/22 virus for humans.

:D
 

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Doesn't Green Mountain make the barrels for Butler Creek? I thought I was told that by a gunsmith once? If so, price shop them both and buy the cheaper one. I put the hogue overmolded stock and butler creek barrel on mine and it shoots very nicely. I may go the trigger and hammer route next.
 

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Hi JustC!

We must have a similar setup. I got the Butler Creek Varmint Combo, which had the composite stock and a 20" varmint barrel. Shoots real nice. Lots of fun for 150 Bucks. I also just ordered the Match Hammer and Sear from Cabelas. Oh, one thing I really felt made a difference in the feel of the gun was adding a bipod I got from "Cheaper than dirt". Was a Chinese made bipod for like 20 Bucks, and it added some more weight to it, cause it's solid metal. No light weight stuff. Probably not your first choice if you wanna use your gun for hunting and walk many miles with it, but I only use it for bench shooting anyways. Love it! I've heard from other people that they prefer a good bench rest over a bipod, but I like my setup, cause I don't have to carry any extra stuff with me when I go shooting. Oh well, just my opinion.

TheGermanGuy :sniper:
 

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Welcome to the forum nantucketbob. I am building 2ea 10/22's. one for hunting, and one for target. The target rifle, I bought the Greenmountain SS 20" bull barrel, and the stock is a Fajen Sporter thumbhole laminate (finish yourself). The GM barrel is capable of .5 average groups at 50 yds. Paid $83 for the barrel, and $87 for the stock on sale. Best trigger mod, I installed a Volquartsen match hammer kit. $31. comes with match hammer, springs, and shims. Made a sweet 2 1/2# pull out of a rough 7#

Best part is you don't need to be a gunsmith, or have special tools, the barrel, and trigger parts are drop in.
What other recommended mods would be important?
(1) WeaponKraft bolt buffer $5. (2) I bedded my stock with Brownells Acgulass Gel kit. Avail midway etc. (3) A weaver T0-9 scope mount $4, Burris Signature Rings with inserts, and a target scope with adjustable AO or Rimfire scope (specific), I had a Tasco 6-24x44mm World Class Target scope I can see the bullets hit target at 50 yds. I bought it 4 months before tasco went under. (4) Selecting ammo which shoots best in your rifle. I am using Dynapoints (avail at K-mart only) and sorting by using a rim guage I made, and weighting. I will also try some match ammo, but its kinda expensive. (5) Use pressure pad under barrel, or bug tunner to tune barrel harmonics to match the ammo.( fancy talk for tighter groups). I plan on getting average of .5" groups at 50 yds. with mine when finished. Will post some pictures soon.

I have a Caldwell Rock benchrest I bought on sale with front bag for $71, and a seperate rear bag. It is fully adjustable, and "Rock Solid" for bench rest shooting. Later I may get bipods for field use shooting prarie dogs etc.

I chose the Stainless models, as they resist rust much better, and you don't have to wory about scratch the blueing, and getting it redone. It's expensive. Down heah, 8" rains are not uncommon so rust would be a big concern. To my knowledge the blue, and SS shoot the same. The reciever is Aluminum with either a blued coating or a satin metal finish. I will try to post some pictures of mine this next week. Wish I had a digital camera.
 

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I agree with Cajungeo, the best part is doing it all yourself.

TheGermanGuy :sniper:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, ready for a dumb question: what is sillouette shooting? The Fajen stock designed for that is cool. Would that stock be unsuitable for target shooting? It looks OK in the picture but the front of the stock changes shape which might be a hinderance in target shooting. Thanks guys. You have been helpful.
 

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Hey Bob. That is a good question. I bought one of each.

The Fajen sillouette thumbhole, for my hunting, as sillouette is target shooting at metal targets up to 125 yds, in the "off hand" position only. (same as my rabbit, and squirrel hunting) The cheek pad is very high to keep head in the upright position. Draw back is you need extra high scope rings, which puts scope way above the bore. I am faced with either removing some wood from the cheek pad, or using extra high rings. I am going to try to remove some wood from the cheek pad to see if I can get it down to medium ring height. It is not suitable for bench rest, as it dosen't sit well in the rest. It looks bitchen though!

The other is the Fajen Sporter thumbhole I am using for target. It sets much better, in the rest using medium rings with a 6-24x44mm target scope. If I could only have one stock for target or hunting, it would be the Sporter. Boydes makes similar stocks. The main diff. I have read about is the Boydes needs less finishing, but it looks more plywoody, The Fajen looks nicer when finished.
 

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Hey Cajun!

I know it's been a while since you started your 2 projects. Are you anywhere near done? And have you had a chance to take any pictures yet? I'm quite curious. Some time next week I'm gonna post a picture of my 10/22. Nothing outrageous. Butler Creek varmint combo a scope and a bipod. But I love it. The 20" barrel makes it look like more of a gun than the shorter ones. I think.
Which brings me to another point. I mentioned Mark White and his book "The Ultimate Ruger 10/22, Manual and User's Guide" in another thread before. He actually found that a 16" barrel on the 10/22 produces best speed and best accuracy. My 20" barrel loses about 15 feet per second to the 16" barrel. He's got a chart in his book with all the different types of ammo he used if anybody is interested. Just thought I'd mention that since we're talking about the "best 10/22 target modifications" here.

TheGermanGuy :sniper:
 

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I'm all over it Germanguy. check out: http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/showthr...hlight=velocity
I believe the 16" is max velocity for std velocity. Since I am attempting long distance i.e. 300 + yds with a .22LR I am looking at modified Hypervelocity, and a modified 48 gr heavy weight, resulting in a higher velocity in a longer barrel. Check out the 400 yd post. I added to it today. Also the "Range Report" for current long range project.
 

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Hi Cajun!

Mark White was testing CCI Stinger, Remingto Viper, Winchester Wildcat, Remington High Velocity, Remington Standard Velocity and Baikal JrBrs (Subsonic), ranging from 1539 feet per second for the Stingers with a 16" barrel to 983 for the Baikal ammo, same barrel length. He tested barrels from 18,5" down to 2". The 16" barrel had the highest velocity for every type of ammo. Of course I have no data about modified hyper velocity ammo with modified 48 grain bullets, so that'll be real interesting to see.

TheGermanGuy :sniper:
 

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Thanks for the info Germanguy. I guess if stingers reach full velocity, in 16", then std velocity would be maxed in less than 16". I can't use the stingers in the match barrel. Their cases are too long for the Bentz chamber. The 22" and the 18" stock barrels didn't seem to have much diff in velocity when I ran them thru the chrony. I chose the 20" bull for the target as it is heaver (less recoil), and the 18" fluted for the carryaround hunting rifle. Will try and get some pictures end of the week. The 48 gr, will not be up to hyper, but should increase a little when I SGB, and hollow point it. It is just an experiment to see if I could remove 3 gr from the bullet, leave it at 45 gr, which would carry inertia over longer dist than a 40 gr, + removing 3 gr should bump up the velocity just a little. May work, may not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't know why it did not occur to me to ask if there any books on the 10/22 concerning modifications. After reading these messages I ordered a couple. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I want to get a stainless 10/22 and might be able to for $120, used, but that seems uncertain at this time. A new one costs $220 which seems too high, and rather silly if I discard the barrel and stock. So here is the question: can I make an action out of off-the-shelf parts? That is can I make a "10/22" without actually starting with anything but a catalog, no Ruger parts except a few nuts and bolts? Sounds like fun to me. Or, can I buy the action somewhere?
 

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So here is the question: can I make an action out of off-the-shelf parts? That is can I make a "10/22" without actually starting with anything but a catalog, no Ruger parts except a few nuts and bolts?
Ruger does not sell the action alone. And if you find one from an member of this or any form you will half to have a FFL or a dealer that it can be shipped to, expect to pay the deal about $20 dollars for the paper work. If you buy an aftermarket action expect to pay more than what a new Ruger rifle is worth.

You can also buy a blue 10/22 new or used and glass bead sand blast it. This will give it a very smooth SS look. Then you can purchase a SS barrel and have your SS looking weapon. The action of a Ruger is not SS even if you purchase one. The barrel is the only thing that is SS. The action is Alum. with I believe a baked on finish. Do not be afraid to purchase a used 10/22. I bought one for $50 dollars...and I bet this unit have been shot at least 10,000 rounds....purchase a new barrel, did the trigger job and it is by far the most accurate 10/22 that I own. Far superior to my new 10/22T Ruger.
 

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Hi Nantucketbob!

You can do that, but like Coyote said, it's gonna cost you alot of dough. On the other hand, depending on how serious you are bout accurizing your 10/22, that might be money your gonna spend anyways. Here's a link to PowerCustom, who manufacture everything you'd need to build a 10/22 from scratch. Again, it looks like alot of money, but you might be looking at spending more than you thought anyways, so do the math and decide for yourself. Also, Cabeals has a ton of 10/22 accessories. Just got to http://www.Cabelas.com and put "10/22" into their search engine. Here's the PowerCustom link: http://www.powercustom.com/

Good luck with whatever you do!!

TheGermanGuy :sniper:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks! The info about costs is what I expected but it is good that you have confirmed that. I have been looking for a used stainless 10/22 on Gunsamerica.com but no used ones have shown up. Got any other ideas for used stainless 10/22s? I suspect that not many are around because of the low value of return so you might as well keep it.
 

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nantucketbob:
Check the gun/pawn shops and not sure if you have yard sales in your area, but they are a good place to buy weapons. Here in Idaho you can go to a yard sale any buy anything from handguns to rifles. Most are really good prices if you know what your looking for and the current price of the items.
 

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Hey nantucketbob. Coyote is correct. The Blue, and SS receivers are the exact same, made of aluminum. Only the finish is different. If you get a blue one, and bead blast the receiver, go to an industrial supply store and get some 600 Alodine. The alum must be ettched with alodine for 5 to 7 min. then neautrilized with water. This will keep it from corroding. Believe me having been in aircraft since the write bros, This will keep alum from corroding.

My project target gun budget was originally to be built under $300. Not including the receiver, or scope. So far by watching for sales, I am almost done, and have spent, $221. I am near .5" groups, at 50 yds. A little more tuning , and ammo selection, and I will be there. How much were you planning on spending? one thing you will find when your up to the point I am. It will cost you much more to reduce groups even a .1" of an inch. For example my 20" Stainless Greenmountain match barrel cost $87. Capable of average .5" groups. A Volquartsen will cost ya near $200 for .3 -.4 groups. Volquartsen also makes a drop in match trigger group for $150. I did mine my self for $31.

If you are getting into the target, I would go with the heaver bull SS barrels, over the light composite barrels, you will see a diff!;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks for your quick reply. I don't have a budget but your budget sounds like what I have in mind. I decided to get the GM bull barrel because of the cost and the fajun sport stock and the Volquartsen trigger mods. I think a Weaver scope would be worth the extra cost; my first .22 had a weaver 4x scope and I loved it.

I still have not found a used stainless .22 on the web but have not devoted a full day for the search, just an hour or so.

I am still toying with the idea of building my own action. Truthfully, I don't really understand how they work and this might be a great exercise, even if I had to spend a little more. It would be for the fun of doing it. Since I don't know where to start it is going to take some time to decide. It is much easier to just buy one. The idea of discarding a carefully crafted barrel and stock offends me; my parents lived through the depression.

Got some ideas on how to start building an action from scratch?

In general here is my strategy: I would get the lower-end mods first. Then if I decided I wanted to upgrade, I could get a better barrel, then trigger assembly. I could always sell the barrel for something, or make another gun for someone else (like one of my daughters). Or, sell the "lower end" model and start over. Thanks, again.
 
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