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Pass the Sauurup
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had a number of troubles with my mini that is just making my mini14 experience a bit strained. I've already sent it to Ruger for repair, and they fixed the more major problem of "failure to extract" fired casings from the chamber.

Now, unless I use high powered brass ammo, about every 10th round will jam between the bolt face and the receiver, lengthwise. Sometimes I get a stovepipe thrown in there too. This happens most consistently with steel Tula, however it's happened with the nice brass too.
Also, the other day I let my buddy shoot it while I was at the range and it was doing the lengthwise casing jam thingy about every other round. I don't know if this happened while he was trying to clear it or if it did it itself, but the oprod separated from the slide and was riding along the side of the receiver outside the groove. I slipped it right back into the notch, but it nevertheless unnerved me. There's no damage to the oprod spur that rides in the groove so I'm guessing this is somewhat normal?

I haven't cleaned it in about 300 rounds and it is a bit on the dirty side, But I thought minis were was supposed to keep blasting away through the junk. I'm not particularly keen on sending it back to Ruger again, seeing as they've already "repaired" it before, but I'll go for that option if I have to.
 

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Mountain Boy
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Wow, clean your rifle!!! Supposedly tough or no, it's a mechanical device and it will fail if you neglect it.
 

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I shot my mini for 500 rounds uncleaned with no issues whatsoever. 500 is just an easy number for me to remember, so i clean it. I don't think it even needs it from what i am seeing when i do. A little copper fouling and some minor soot. Never a malfunction except a sticky bolt if I store it with the bolt closed. Then it will stick to the leather buffer on the gas block at first when opening it manually. Still works fine when shooting. It sounds like you may have some tolerance stacking or defects somewhere. I have seen someone else complaining about the oprod coming out with sideways pull-pressure too...can't remember where. What does Ruger say about all of this? I think they will make it right for you if you persist.

God Bless!

Ron
 

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Worse case scenario, send it back to Ruger & get a replacement rifle out of them. :cool:
 

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I don't care if its a really nice rifle or a AK47 I clean my rifles every time I use them. Now if I only shoot a couple rounds I might just run a bore brush and wipe off and re-lube the bolt but I always do something to clean it. I would give it a very good tear down and cleaning and try it once more before you send it in.
 

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BTW, I recently removed both buffers altogether for the sticking reason above. It shot great without them. I'll see if my 50 buck scope can handle it..it will be a worthwhile sacrifice if it doesn't.


Do you have buffers in there? Is there any possibility they are causing some of these symptoms? You never know. Mine shoots flawlessly with the buffers too, but i can't live with the sticking after a relatively short term storage and the bolt closed, so i took them out. Actually, I don't know for sure that it does shoot flawlessly after storage...hmmm..not going to test it either. But it's worth examining if you are using buffers.


God Bless

Ron
 

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Sounds like a lemon. Obviously something is amiss. I think you'll find plenty of examples of Minis going through way more than 300 rounds without problems like you're seeing. Mine delivered over 500 one weekend (and 300 of that was Tula) without a single FTE, FTL or FTanything. I'd send it back to Ruger again too, but if that's a problem, you should check the gas port and gas port bushing. And if you're using op rod bushings, make sure they are 1/10" or less. Needs "high power brass ammo" sounds like the gas isn't cycling the action with enough authority. Definitely not a problem for most Minis.
 

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It shouldn't be that fussy. I had to send one back for failure to eject. It would rip the rim a chunk of the rim off and leave the empty in the chamber. Ruger fixed it and it had no problems ever since. As much as it sucks, I would send it back to Ruger again. They will almost certyianly make it right. There are millions of Minis out there that chug along just fine, don't let a rotten apple spoil the barrel.

FWIW, I seem to gather brand new factory defects. In every case, I have ultimately gotten the factory to make the gun 100%. One time kimber had to replace my 1911 with a new one at no charge. The more clearly you describe the problem, the better your chances of them fixing it. Before you send it back, make sure it is assembled correctly, including the placement of the recoil spring guide rod tip.
 

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Pass the Sauurup
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143 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All good stuff to hear, thank you all for the opinions, I'll probably be calling Ruger here shortly.
It's 100% stock setup and no buffers in place. It's assembled properly too.
I'm also one of those guys who gets some weird satisfaction from cleaning my guns, granted, I haven't indulged in that for a while. I'm going to scrub it spotless and give the gas block/port a good cleaning out before I send it out to Ruger. I still think it's got terminal issues other than just being a bit dirty though.
 

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one thing to check as you disassemble is the orientation of the spring rod end that goes into the cup at the reciever end...that one is easy to get wrong as you are squishing the spring and aligning stuff back into the oprod. If it's upside down, it will cause problems like you describe because it will be binding.

God Bless!

Ron
 

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How does it feel when you hand cycle the gun. If it cycles smoothly by hand then you may have a dirty chamer. I've read on here that when shooting steel case ammo there is more fouling in the chamber because the steel case does not expand like brass to seal off the chamber. Then when you shoot brass, it expands and grips the chamber too much for it to cycle. Try cleaning the bore with some solvent and a 9mm brush bent at a 90 degree angle. Good luck.
 

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New guns feel a little rough when cycling the action and will take about 300-500 to get broke in.
 

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Use good brass cased ammo and keep it clean. This is my rifle, it is my friend, if I take care of it, it will take care of me. Why abuse something that may save your life. Drop and give me 20.
 

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Tula is under powered and steel cased and fouls the chamber which Ruger tells you not to use and you put 300 rounds through it and can't understand why you are having problems? Really?
 

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Many many problems can be blamed on aftermarket magazines and steel-cased ammo.

Your op-rod situation confuses me, though.
 
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