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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally was prepared last night to bed my mini. I had previously watched Mike's video and felt fairly confident on the task. I added 2-4 thin coats of the release agent (I will the spray stuff for future project for sure!!). I mixed my Acraglas Gel hardener and resin, and then add a little 2-ton 30 minute epoxy to make the compound flow better.

All in one sitting I bedded the metal liner in place and the action. I locked the triggerin place, cleaned any excess oozing out and any on the stock, and called it a night.

This morning I got up a little early (about 7-1/2" hours from bedding) to check on my mini and the compound was rock-solid! I spent over an hour chipping and dremeling around the lugs and overflow to get the trigger and action apart. Some of my edges had chipped out, but all in all it seems to be a tight fit around all pressure and bearing areas so I'm gonna leave it.

In case my bedding chips and falls out the next time I shoot, and suggestions on making the job easier? Any ideas on the factors that would cause my bedding to harden and set so fast?

One thing I definitely learned is to be a little more sparing with the bedding compound to prevent all the oozing all over :)
 

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My guess is that you should stick with the acraglas gel and NOT add the 30 minute epoxy.


Why did you add the 30 minute epoxy?

Dennis Jenkins


[stuff for future project for sure!!). I mixed my Acraglas Gel hardener and resin, and then add a little 2-ton 30 minute epoxy to make the compound flow better.

In case my bedding chips and falls out the next time I shoot, and suggestions on making the job easier? Any ideas on the factors that would cause my bedding to harden and set so fast?
 

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The Gel spreds on like cream cheese. The regular (red box) runs, and drips like syrup. The 30 min is what increased the set up time. Even if it feels rock hard. Let it set to full hardness for 3 or 4 days. Small imperfections around the beding won't hurt anything, but if you have larger voids around the recoil, just rough up the inside of the void, smear some more accuglass in, of course you have to recoat, the metal parts with release agent, reasemble, and let cure. I'd leave out the 30 min. stuff. I had a tube of 90 min. standing buy, but didn't need it. The gel is soooo smooth.

Not bad for the first time. Next time it will be a piece of cake for ya. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys for the input :)

Looking at now, it doesn't look so bad :)

Dennis:

I bedded a choate plastic/fiberglass stock. I did A LOT of inleting and drilling for the Acraglas to bond and mechanically "lock" to the plastic. I purchased Mike Knifong's video on how to bed a mini 14 and he suggested thinning the mix with 30 minute epoxy to help flow into the inletted areas and drilled holes.

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I will wait a couple of days and asses and probably rebed some areas where there are voids. BTW How does bedding compound stick to itself?

Fortunately, areas around the the recoil lugs and the metal liner are pretty sweet. I removed a substantial amount of plastic so there is a good amount of solid bedding compound in those areas. When I rebed, I will try it without the 30 minute epoxy.

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A couple more questions, should I follow the 10 hour guideline in the instructions? Does the Acraglas by itself usually take that long? I don't want to be in that situation again where I couldn't even cut out any excess because of the hardness. Thanks
 

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Hi. Resins are temperature sensitive--cooler is longer and warmer is shorter (setup time). If you intend to add to voids/other areas make SURE you remove ALL the release agent used in the prior glassing--otherwise it won't stick.Billc:) :ar15:
 

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How does bedding compound stick to itself?
Like dennis said make shure to remove the release agent that is stuck to the epoxy. Clean with Alc, or acetone, abrade area, apply release agent to metal areas, apply epoxy, assemble, let cure over night before taking apart. Wait 3 or 4 days for final cure before shooting.
 

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:D I suppose I should mention one of the best release agents I used in 30plus years was "green soap" (see your drug store). Easy alcohol cleanup. Apply with brush/self leveling and will dry to a film but need not be dry to put the action in place if you are impatient. Have done many rifles this way and never had a problem. If you can't do anything else, go to a boat shop and get a repair kit. It will work as well and may be cheaper. Heh,heh. Whatever works!!Best, Billc:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advice guys.

I have cleaned up my metal and the stock. I think (besides my hard time getting it apart) it looks great. Real defined and a very tight fit around the lugs and the metal liner. The metal liner actually has to "snap" in........ I am going to make sure I don't do that too often so I don't compromise the bedding.

Tomorrow night I will bed areas where there isn't continuous bedding or gaps. I am only going to mix a little bit of compound this time, hehe. No massive overflows :)
 

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just finished watching the video myself..... glad to hear of your fun as I was going to do the same (although I dont think we have a 2-ton 30 min epoxy here, probably something similar though).
I will try it without...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi Doonnzl,

Good luck with your project. I thought the video was VERY helpful. I rebed a second time without using the epoxy, and everything worked out GREAT! I am pleased with the results.

One piece of advice I offer you is to take your time applying the compound on the stock. I rushed it figuring it would set faster than it does, and I would clean up after it set. I'm not telling you to take a half hour, just apply with thought and make sure you are satisfied with it. Work it in real thoroughly into the stock, and don't use too much. Also after you have put in your action and trigger, take as much time as necessary to clean up the excess bedding compound that has oozed out. This is what made the second time for me go much smoother. It prevented alot of areas from wanting to "lock" because of excess compound oozing over and around parts.

Finally, I would like to thank everyone in this forum for being helpful and informative. It made my job MUCH easier. When all the snow here melts, we'll see if the proof is in the pudding :)
 

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In general who long do these kits give you to play before they become unmanagable?
also, I havent as yet been able to track down a release agent spray but at work we use a liquid silicon tyre dressing. Any thoughts on whether this stuff would do?
Im told lipstick works well.... (note to self.... re-assess friends)
As for snow, its 20 odd deg C (70 ish deg F) here in NZ !!!
passing me by while Im rebuilding !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It's supposed to get to a high temp here of 20 deg..........Farhenheit!!

I think the Acraglass Gel kit will give you about 25 min. before it gets too thick to work with. It is very temperature-dependant, so follow the directions on what temp you should be working in. I just used the release agent that came with the kit. It's kind of a pain in the butt to work with (you have to brush thin coats on with a Q-tip) but it gets the job done. Also, I really had to scrub the action and stock to get it off.
 

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Bubba,you don't need to add or subtract to any of Brownells compounds.To stop your bedding from "falling out" as you say,take a sharp punch and dimple the wood/synthetic all over the areas where the compound will set.This gives the compound achoring points and it stays where it should.In the future you may want to try "Steel Bed".Its stronger when dried and thicker when wet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
My problem was with the Gel being a little too thick. I inletted and drilled the hell out of my stock. The problem with one area was that the Acraglas Gel would not "flow" into some of my inletting and holes, preventing a really solid lock. Everything is good now though. Thanks
 
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