Bedding a 10/22

11764 Views 30 Replies 3 Participants Last post by TheGermanGuy, Apr 26, 2003

TheGermanGuy

Discussion Starter · Mar 21, 2003

Alright. I've never done this before. Got myself the Acraglas Gel and I'm gonna tackle it. However, I would like to see if you guys can give me some pointers on this. As you might remember, I have the Butler Creek composite stock. So I'm gonna have to do the sanding and cross drilling. Also, on top of this, the barrel channel is hollow. So I'm gonna have to fill a portion of it in order to be able to bed the barrel. Now as far as the action goes, my composite stock is really snug there, and I wouldn't be able to get any of the bedding material in between. That is, unless I take some material out from the stock. Is that necessary? How did you guys do it? I'd be especially interested in Coyote's knowledge, since I know he's got the Bell&Carlson composite stock.

http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/1022bedding.html

This is a link Cajun has posted a few times, and I'm going by what the guy says to do. So far.

Any reply will be greatly appreciated!

TheGermanGuy :sniper:

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cajungeo

· #2 · Mar 22, 2003

I bedded the rear of the receiver up to an inch around the sides, and rear of trigger group. The bottom 3/4" of recoil lugs. (don't over do it or you may not get your stock off as it has to pivot up to remove) Under the mounting screw lug. (I put model clay infront of v-block & screws). Bedded 2-3" under the barrel. This is to help support the heavy bull barrel, nesting in the thin alum. receiver.

I free floated my barrel first. Use 2 coats of release agent. Plug all possible mechanical locks with clay, also the gap between the receiver, and trigger group. Don't forget the pin ends. Watch the squeeze out. I cleaned the squeeze out in the mag well with q-tips.

Is your barrel free floated? Also how deep is the forestock channel you would have to fill?

As far as your stock fitting tight, it may only be tight in places. If your action/barrel is moving around in the stock under recoil, your groups will not be round. A well bedded rifle shoots tight round groups, if the shooter does his job, and has a trigger job. No bedding will result in a wider group with flyers. (don't confuse with 1st manually loaded round flyer).

I'm not shure about the Bell & Carlson, but I think they have a solid barrel channel. Maby Coyote, can give further tips.

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cajungeo

· #4 · Mar 22, 2003

Free floated means that with the rifle ready to shoot, no part of the stock touches the barrel. You should be able to slide a business card between the barrel, and stock. My lamanint stocks, I had to remove material to get it there.

The hollow barrel channel is about 3/4" wide and maybe 1" deep

That is a huge area to fill in. I think I would look at only bedding the top of the first channel wall just past the v block provided it isn't way forward.

The other thing to watch is not getting bedding down into the take down screw hole in the stock.

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cajungeo

· #6 · Mar 23, 2003

The bug tuner or other type, compliments the bedding. The bedding stabelizes the action/barrel, with the stock not touching the barrel, there is no distorting harmonic's acting on it. The 2 inches or so of barrel bedding only serves to support the heavy bull barrel to the thin alum receiver.

The tuner, allows you to control the harmonic's to a very repeatable frequency. So the bullet leaves the barrel, at the same point of the vibration cycle. Again you can only verify this if you shoot before, and after bedding, and tuning. I have on my target 10/22, and there is a big difference. Good luck!

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cajungeo

· #8 · Mar 25, 2003

No it dosen't lift it out of the bedding, there isn't that much pressure applied to the screw. The pressure is only enough to dampen, or change the barrel vibration to a repetable cycle. You may want to review this thread, and the contained links.

I'm still using the card board at present. Haven't had much time since to design a tuner, but it is still a priority. http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/showthr...t=barrel+tunner

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cajungeo

· #10 · Mar 28, 2003

The stock is so tight at that end that inserting the barreled action squeezed most of the acraglas gel downwards, to where I now have a snug top and bottom part, but the middle section ended up being empty

Was your stock that tight before you bedded? Or after?

Not shure which part your talking about, but if your talking about the notch in the rear formed by the trigger group, and receiver? You can touch up voids by cleaning the surface to be touched up with alcohol to remove any imbeded release agent, then lightly abrade with sandpaper, reaply release agent to the receiver/trigger group. Then reaply the acruglas, and reasemble the rifle. If its only a small void, I'd let it go.

You may be ok as is, if you have bedding on the upper, and lower part of the rear of the receiver, the upper part of the recoil lugs, and under the barrel.

I may have to break down, and buy a digital camera with a macro lens. A good picture would be worth a lot of typing. That would be great if you could post a close up picture of your bedding.

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cajungeo

· #17 · Mar 29, 2003

Hey GermanGuy. You didn't need the bedding on the side of the receiver only on the rear of the receiver, around only about an inch, to lock in the rear of the receiver. I see some voids, but I think its a good enough job. You made a notch in your V block to act as a recoil lug, whereas I bedded around the recoil lugs. Both ideas will work. If it were mine I'd take it to the range to check it out.

Overall a good job well done. Thanks for the pics. I gosta get me a cammera with macro.

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cajungeo

· #21 · Mar 31, 2003

Originally posted by TheGermanGuy
Thanks New Guy!

Is there a webpage to check out your tuner? And yes, you might have guessed it... I'm a cheap bastard. But that's only part of the reason why I wanna do everything I can myself. I really enjoy working on my 10/22. It's more fun than I ever thought it could be. And with the help of this forum, I'm slowly getting it to become a halfway decent shooter too! My brother in law is already wondering why I need it to shoot any more accurate. "You're hitting the 10 ring every time you shoot, so how much more accurate do you need to be??" is what he says. When I tell him that my group size needs to get smaller, he only shakes his head. Oh well. What can I say? I enjoy this stuff!!

TheGermanGuy :sniper:

P.S.: Maybe I should just use reeeeaaaally tiny targets for my brother in law, freak him out.... Ha!

I really dig this stuff too, thats why I had to have 2.

Hey for a small target that would really, really freak out your brother in law, when you get your 10/22 up to snuff, nail a dime on a board with the nail heads pinch holding the dime. At 50 yds, put 10 rds thru it, then give it to him

I wonder if a a 22 LR would go thru a dime? I bet it would! Next time I go I'm gonna try it.

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cajungeo

· #24 · Apr 1, 2003

GermanGuy, you may want to review this thread: http://www.perfectunion.com/forums/showthr...ighlight=tunner
For cheap, I go to the range with cardboard hanging out from under my barrels. I get tickled when other guys do a double take when they see my beautiful rifle with the cardboard sticken out. A couple have asked me what thats for. Then I show em my dime size groups.

I'm designing a homemade tuner. Parts will total less than a buck. I'm am letting loose for a new camera soon. Will post a pic when I get the camera, and build the tuner.

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cajungeo

· #27 · Apr 19, 2003

If someone at the range is showing off you can pull out your best ammo, and blow em away.

BTW. Im shooten .5" groups at 50 yd with K-mart dynapoints. $12 a brick. My range is torn up, and maybe that way for a few weeks, unless I lay out in the grass. If they don't hurry up I may do just that!

I guess I'm gonna have to build my tunner, as I can't seem to find the ole bug tuner.

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cajungeo

· #30 · Apr 26, 2003

I don't have any experience with it, other than what I've read about it, and other similar devices. Benchrest shooters use similar tunners, so it must work. I just can't afford the bucks.

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