WHAT YOU ARE DOING IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS. YOU HAVE DEFEATED AN ESSENTIAL SAFETY FEATURE, AND YOU HAVE AN UNSAFE RIFLE. DO NOT FIRE YOUR RIFLE IN THIS CONFIGURATION.
Originally posted by RW26
Hey Cajungeo. I made the pin from the shank of a long drill bit. I believe the size was 7/32". I changed some things that seem to work. 1. I didn't know what to do for the end that the hammer strikes. The little ear that hangs down and catches a part of the reciever as it goes into battery. Looking at other weapons with floating firing pins, I decided to see what would happen without that part on it. 2. The long cutout that allows for the extractor pin to pass by and hold the firing pin in place, I limited it to just about 1/2" . I didn't see the reason for the longer cutout. The firing pin floats back and forth fine. It fits the bolt nicely and in firing the gun it has worked perfect so far.
The firing pin tail is of absolutely crucial importance -- it catches on the helical cut in the safety bridge, which "captures" the firing pin until the bolt rotates into battery (i.e.- achieves lug engagement and lockup).
(This is something easy to show to someone, but difficut to explain just in text.) Right now, your rifle can EASILY fire before the bolt lugs are locked up.
If this happens, it is not a malfunction, because you eliminated the part of the system which prevents it from firing out of battery.
The bolt slams a new cartridge into the chamber with considerable force, and it uses a floating (inertial) firing pin, and the firing pin will slam into the next primer EVERY time the gun is fired without the firing pin tail being captured. This happens by inertial alone, it is not a malfunction. Even in normal conditions, primers may be lightly dimpled by the firing pin as they are seated (if you were to extract a chambered round to inspect the primer, some may show this tiny dimple). It is ONLY the firing pin tail which prevents an out-of-battery ignition, which will send your bolt flying back at your face and possibly DISINTEGRATE your action.
If you are handloading with soft primers (like Federals), or you have one high primer, it could also go off out of battery. If the firing pin sticks forward in the bolt, your Mini WILL go full auto as long as it is stuck. If you trip the trigger early, or it "bump fires", you WILL destroy your rifle. If you spend a few minutes examining how the action works with the normal firing pin, you should be able to figure out how this all works, especially if you drop the hammer with the bolt back and let it follow the bolt forward.
I don't mean to be harsh, but doing this sort of home repair without understanding the mechanism is monumentally stupid. Every little bend, cut, ledge, or other feature is there for a purpose. If you don't understand the reason for some feature, and just eliminate it, you are doing something really dumb which could cost you your eyesight, or worse. PLEASE seek the assistance of a knowledgeable M1/M14 armorer before firing it with ANYTHING changed. Send the bolt to Ruger, and get it done right. If you want to learn more, you can look at the Kuhnhausen manual on Garand-type actions, or Duff books on the M14/M1A.
I'm sorry if this post sounds rude, but you need to clearly understand that what you have done can maim or kill you, possibly the next time you pull the trigger.
This will probably happen if you keep firing it.
Please do not take this lightly. Years ago, in the airplane in a skydiving competiton, I had a conversation with a guy on another team about an item of questionable safety on his gear. He told me "... if I ever had a malfunction, I'd be dead." That night, he saw his last sunset, and the next day, he proved himself right. I watched him fall to his death, and it is not something I am likely to forget in this lifetime.
PULL THE FIRING PIN OUT OF YOUR RIFLE, NOW, AND DESTROY IT
so you will not be tempted to fire it. Then send it to Ruger for proper repair.