Perfect Union banner
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
This place shortens barrels down to 16.25 for $145.
Includes choat flash supressor converted to a muzzle
brake and silver soldered in place.
Accuracy is enhanced. There was a write up recently
in a gun magazine on a rilfe shortened by these guys.
They liked it.
http://www.drccustomgunsights.com/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
61 Posts
I have seen a few mini's with a shortened barrel and was wondering what the purpose was. I can see how this would reduce the barrel whip, but what happens to your velocity and other factors that a longer barrel gives you?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,786 Posts
Ya know i'd answer macman's question, but if ya notice the date he posted, I kind of think he's been out of town for a while. For what its worth my mini came from the factory with a 18" barrel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
So say you have access to a machinist's lathe, what's involved in just wacking one off at say 16.5"? Anybody done this? I know there's an issue with a square cut, any other tricks?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Hey Goodorbit,
I've got a mini standard that I cut the barrel back on and installed a choate ar style birdcage flash hider on. No problem, just cut behind factory sight, a good quality hacksaw blade makes this much easier, square up the cut with a mill file and mount new sight with the set screw, after you make sure the sight is straight up, drill and install the new roll pin. There were pretty clear instructions with the new flashhider. I like the new carbine length, makes a real handy package with the BC folder. BTW, mines a preban.

:ar15:

PS: you don't even have to recrown if you are installing a muzzle device that will protect the shortened barrel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I perfer to use my lathe for this type of work, but here is the propper prcess if you do not have one,
1, Locate area to be cut.
2, Mark area and make your cut with a good quality hack saw.
3, square up the cut the best you can with a good mill file.
4, Make a muzzle lapp using a 1/8 inch brass ball and a six inch piece of 1/4 inch drill rod. Drill a 1/8 inch hole half way through the brass ball. Solder end of drill rod in to hole in the brass ball.
5, coat brass ball with lapping compound.
6, set brass ball on bore opening and rotate handle between your hands.
7, remove brass ball and clean compound off muzzle.
8, Check the end of the bore for the progress of the lapping.
9, Once you have a slight radius cut for the entire bore edge you are done.
This radius cut will help ensure a true bullet exit from the bore.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
Thanks for the info-
I think I get it now. :rolleyes: DUH!

I'm guessing that with a lathe you just cut a 1/16 Radius bevel at the tip of the rifeling.

Still looking for the project rifle... will let you know how it all "turns" out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
goodorbit---One shot has it down pretty good. The really important thing it to try to get the cut as square as possible with a fine mill file. Instead of a brass ball let me introduce you to the plain brass round headed wood screw. Get a brass screw & run it into a good straight piece of steel tubing. Use some good old "Clover" brand valve grinding compound or whatever brand your local auto parts store will sell & have at it. This procedure will make the benchrest people gasp but hey, this is a Mini we're talking about.

Good luck
Bushwack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Bushwack has a vary good idea and one that I am going to file away in memory. I would have never have thought of using a brass screw. Befor buying my lathe I used the above methode a lot and hade vary good results. I still have an old 8mm Mauser that I did this on and the thing will shoot 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Originally posted by rezman
Hey Goodorbit,
I've got a mini standard that I cut the barrel back on and installed a choate ar style birdcage flash hider on. No problem, just cut behind factory sight, a good quality hacksaw blade makes this much easier, square up the cut with a mill file and mount new sight with the set screw, after you make sure the sight is straight up, drill and install the new roll pin. There were pretty clear instructions with the new flashhider. I like the new carbine length, makes a real handy package with the BC folder. BTW, mines a preban.

:ar15:

PS: you don't even have to recrown if you are installing a muzzle device that will protect the shortened barrel.
So if I have a HK-style flash hider I don't have to crown the barrel after cutting it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Paul S---The barrel has to be crowned no matter what you hang on the end of the barrel. The whole idea behind crowning the barrel is to square the muzzle with the bore so the bullet exits the lands & grooves evenly. A muzzle that's not square will tend to tip the bullet as it exits & it doesn't take much. You can buy a hand operated piloted reamer from Brownells that will cut the muzzle square.

Good luck
Bushwack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Hi Bushwack,

Not to nitpick, but – as I understand it, the purpose of a crown is to protect a perfectly square barrel end. If a barrel end is cut square and something else is used to protect it (e.g., flash hider or muzzle brake) then a crown is not necessary. And as rezman states above, we’re talking about Mini-14s here, not a target rifle, so I wouldn’t get too worried about the crown on a factory Mini-14 barrel.

Brad D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
I used the wrong term, instead of getting a crowning cutter you'd need a muzzle facing cutter. This is used to put the perfect 90° face on the end of the barrel. Again the face must be cut 90° to the bore. As to it being a Mini-14 & not a target rifle, the way I look at it is why do a poor job on a barrel that already has problems?

Just my 2¢
Bushwack
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I agree, Bushwack. If you're going to do a job, do it right. I plan to whack off a substantial hunk of my Mini-14's barrel and permanently attach a FH to meet rifle/barrel minimum OAL criteria. When I do so, I'll make sure the muzzle face is square, and I'll probably be obsessive about it, too -- that's my nature. For those who don't understand this crowning/muzzle facing business, though, I thought I'd point out that it's not necessary to worry over this stuff too much with a stock Mini-14, given it's inherent inaccuracy.

Good shooting,

Brad D. in WY
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
224 Posts
Brad-
Being a bit obsessive myself, I'll take the "every little bit counts" route. Seriously, I appreciate you guys spelling out stuff like this fot thous of us just learning.

So what do you guys reccomend as the best/easiest "permanent" method of attaching? Silver solder is what I'm most familiar with. Arc welding seems like a bad choice.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Top