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I'm new to a .223 and wondering about barrel break-in and after use care of the barrel on my stainless ranch rifle. I've never really had to worry about copper fouling, as most of my stuff has all been handgun.
I have done a shoot and clean for 10 rounds, and then shoot 2 and clean for 20 rounds, and then normal shooting, with no rapid fire, and letting the barrel cool after 10 rounds, however I've read here that some of you take this alot further. I only have ~150 rounds through the weapon, so I hope that I haven't done any damage to the barrel.
Also, Is the Ruger laminated wood stock any stiffer than the birch wood stock. I would like to keep this stock, but I will give it up in the quest for accuracy. I do plan on bedding it, but want to start with a good base/stock.
Thanks
Kary
 

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Brush, solvent, oil. Thats all you need. The mini14 is made to shoot and never be cleaned. Just clean normally after a days shooting.

Laminated stocks are stiffer and thus better for consistency than birch and look much nicer to boot :p .
 

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Barrel Break In? I'm still shooting a l903 Springfield I sporterized in the 60's. GI barrel has fired thousands of rounds, both sporting and competition, and still performs like a champ-1/2 to 3/4 100 yd groups. Has fired everything from ll0 gr halfjackets at 3,000 plus, 168 gr b/t to 220's and performed in all aspects. What "Break In"?;)
 

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Welcome to the forum Big Blue. As you can see there are many different opinions on barrel break in. Even the barrel manufactures offer different methods for break in. The one thing they all agree in is, a "cool" barrel break in will accomplish 2 things. Increase in accuracy, and increase the number of shots before cleaning is needed. The break in smooths the machine marks in the bore. The mini has a very rough bore you can feel it as you pull a patch thru. A smooth bore is more accurate, and fouls less.

You can do what you want on your mini, but I broke mine in by the following method. First clean lube, and preservitive from bore, then fire 1 shot then clean, for 10 times; fire 3 shots then clean, 10 times; fire 5 shots then clean, 10 times, then finish out the 100 rd. then clean. You may be close if you used a good copper cleaner.

Now a word or two on cleaning. (1) Clean bore with a cleaning rod, and use a "bore guide"!. I use a tatical cable, and pull thru from muzzle to chamber. This is to protect the muzzle crown. I have also used a length of "weedwacker mono" with a melted ball on one end, and the other sharpend to thread on patches.
(2) Use a good copper cleaner. Avoid sweets 7.62 it is a very powerful cleaner (corrosive) it will get into your gas port. Avoid JB paste, it is an abrassive, Avoid any copper cleaner with ammonia it will pitt stainless throats, and barrel. I use Hoppies Benchrest Copper cleaner, you can let it soak over night if you want, no damage. Copper on your patch will look green. There are other good ones, but this is what I use.

The std birch stock is sturdy. I only replaced mine as with no checkering it was very slick in my hands, but I use a lot of chemicals, and abrasives so the skin dosen't have the grip I needed, so I bought a Hogue stock. I doubt you would notice any difference in a laminate stock over the birch, as far a accuracy goes with the mini. The laminate is heaver, and less effected by temp change, but then the mini isn't a tack driver. If you like your stock, then by bedding it you'll like it even more.
 
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