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I just loaded some barnaul 62gr fmjbt w/26gr or Varget, CCI sr mag. primer. They shot very well in my mini. I haven't yet loaded any hp as I use hornady 60gr hp's and they are very accurate in my mini. But the barnaul bullets in bulk are cheaper. they the fmjbt seem to function fine and are reasonably accurate 1.75 at 100yds.
 

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Paul I hope you don't mind me slipping in a couple questions for Mr King? Thats pretty good shooten with the varget powder, have you tried any other powders? What brass are you using? I don't mean to be nosey, I'm just trying to work up some load myself. Thanks in advance for the info.
 

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I have Barnaul 55gr FMJBT. Bulk 1000 rounds.

The only discernable difference from Wolf ammo that I can tell is the taper of the boat-tail starts later (further down the bullet) on the Wolf.

The casings are identical (other than one saying .223 and the other saying 5.56mm - we won't debate that one AGAIN). Both with steel casing. Both with same green laquer. Both with same red sealant. Both made in Russia.

Shoot pretty much the same, but the Barnaul seems slightly LESS accurate... Maybe just my dislike for their packaging. Wolf ammo is packaged much better and neater. As cheap as this ammo is, I will lean toward Wolf every time, simply because of their packaging. It fits much better in 50 cal ammo cans.
 

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Varget is New to me. At26gr w/CCI mag primer or CCI 41sr primer works well with 62gr FMJ Barnaul, Very well w/60gr Hornady, 62gr FMJBTSC IMI. I use Fed Prem. Nickle Brass. My normal powder is H335 both seem to give 1.5" at 100yds. My mini wears a Leatherwood Art II Sports scope 3x9, SS gas pipe and gas port bushing with a small hole in it to throw my brass 10ft. I also added a JP enterprises Muzzle break (kinda looks like a muzzle break for an army tank) weight about 4 ozs. Helped the accuracy a bunch. I teflon coated by blued mini with brownells teflon/moly coat and use LSA w/ graphite to lube it. I forgot to tell you I added an ARS adjustable trigger and A Clark custom guns laminated stock. I know it will never be a tack driver and wasn't meant to be. I'll settle for, and consider 1.5" lucky. Hope this answers your questions!
 

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My M14 target-shooting friend loaned me his bible for setting up the M14. A couple of things I don't see how they can improve accuracy, like fitting a metal ferrule at the front of the stock and grinding and polishing the rear sight base.

One thing that got my attention is the op-rod guide. My mini-14 ranch rifle doesn't have one. Has anyone seen a mini with a op-rod guide? And does it help?:sniper:
 

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My mini ranch has an op-rod guide, part #KMS03901, only ruger in their infinite wisdom calls; the op-rod a "Slide Assembly", and the op-rod guide a "Buffer Guide Rod". The op-rod guide fits inside the op-rod spring, and op-rod keeping the spring and op-rod in place so it won't hit the gas piston, uh-- I mean the "Gas Pipe". It appears the "guide function" is assisted by the fwd end of the op-rod sliding a bearing surface under the barrel, and at the aft end of the op-rod locked into the slide grove in the receiver. It seems like a simple system that works as my gas PIPE shows no sign of impact or wear.
 

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Cajungeo,
You described mine to a tee! Except that my gas pipe does have wear marks. I'm thinking that putting some epoxy inside my aftermarket stock will help guide the op rod to a better seat around the gas pipe.

The M14 has a special bracket that is pinned in place about half way down the barrel that guides the op-rod. A closer look at my mini, and I see the same thing wouldn't work. The mini's op-rod makes a 90 degree bend at half it's length, so such a bracket would get in the way.
 

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Kalifornia, I only have about 400 rds on my mini, maby after a few thousand rds. I may have chaffe marks on my gas pipe, as well. Before you bed your action: (1) ya might want to pull off the handguard, and look inside to see if your stock is hitting on the op-rod, "deflecting" it into the gas pipe. A little dremmel will do ya. (2) Also is your "Forearm Liner & Stock Cap Assembly", centered, and latched down? As the op-rod slides on the 3 ribs in this piece which assists in centering it to receive insertion of the gas pipe. It would seem to me, that applying epoxy in this area could pose more problems, than it would solve. (3) Are you one of the pioneers that ground off the fwd end of the op-rod? if so you might want to re-countersink the gas pipe hole to help get the pipe started in the hole. (4) Does your gas pipe have a "little play" in it? ( now don't take this personal, were still talking about yer mini. No not that mini, your mini-14 for petes sake!). Mine has a little play which would seem to make it more forgiving than a solid locked in pipe.
I wonder if anyone else has wear marks on their gas pipe, and how many rounds were fired? This could be a normal Phenomenon, or in your case, "abynormal". Let us know if ya find anything.
 

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So thats what I been shooting! I shot 2 boxes of the fmjbt 55 gr. groups 1.75" in my mini, but it stinks, and the box is small so at first I thought I was getting jiped.
 

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Contact Brownells for a new recoil spring if it is worn out or defective from the factory an new one might solve your problem. Couldn't hurt. Brownells sells Wolf springs at a good price. they have a web sight Brownells.com.
 

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Mike223,
This project has really got me motivated. So, in a few weeks I hope to post some results. I hope to buffer the front shock when op-rod slams home, and reduce the vibration. I have no idea what that'll do for accuracy. Probably nothing, since the bullet has already left the barrel before the op-rod kicks back.

I hope for a little improvement in rapid second-round accuracy.

KC
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Received the Barnaul ammo today.

Interestingly, Dan from Dan's Ammo called me before shipping to answer a question I had about whether do these have a steel core (my local range does not allow them), and he told me that even though these do not have steel in them they will fail a magnetic test, due to the nature of the alloy composition of the bullet. Anybody run across this before? Thanks, Paul.
 

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I'm not a metalurgist or whatever they are but to my knowedge there is not alloy of lead or copper that is magnetic. I've been wrong before, just ask both my Ex's! I'd be very suspect of this ammo. It really doesn't matter though as the range officer at your range has the last word & chances are he's not a metalurgist either.

Just my 2¢
Bushwack
 

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Both my ex's live in texas, thats why I live in Louisiana.
I have some experience with metals. In order for the metal to be attracted to a magnet it must be a ferrous metal i.e. containing iron. I just came from my reloading station, having sacraficed 1 round of barnaul ammo for a worthy cause. Wow, I like the boat tail on it, twice as long as the nosler BT. I pull out my 100 lb magnet. "Ping" it sticks to the magnet, just for you doubters, a nosler BT, "nothing". So then I cut into the Barn bullet, it is very hard inside, like trying to cut a bolt. There IS a piece of steel or iron in the core. (warning!!! Do Not Put a 100 LB magnet on the side of your refrigerator, it will put a bulge in it when you try and pull the magnet off!)
 
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