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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
first off let me just tell you that i am a dumb newbie so please have patients. thanks

i was looking at getting a mini-14, but now after reading some threads here i see everyone talking about building kit guns?
what is the cost of a good beginer kit?
i would like to use the gun with a scope.
i was going to spend $500 on a mini-14, but it sounds like i can get into a AR-15 knockoff for around $700? is this really true? i would love to get the real thing instead of getting a mini-14, but i always heard they were around $1,000.
there are just soo many options for the ar-15's. where do i go to find out what it all means?
 

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How about this for a 1st AR-

All this for $739 plus shipping:



Rifle Specifications:

Upper Receiver: Forged 7075T6, 'A2' configuration, NM Rear Sight (1/4 Min. Windage/ 1/2 Min Elev.)"
Lower Receiver: Forged 7075T6, Includes laser engraved Ltd Edition AR15.COM numbers, McFarland 1 piece gas ring
Safety Switch: Milspec standard
Takedown pins: Milspec pushpins front and rear for easy, no tool takedown
Front sight: cast, NM
Rear sight: National Match Rear Sight (1/4 Min. Windage/ 1/2 Min Elev.)
Barrel: 20" Stainless Steel, sandblasted finish
Rifling: Right hand twist, 1 turn in 8"
Caliber: 5.56x45mm NATO M16 chamber
Handguards: Milspec standard
Finish: hard coat anodized with Black T Coat
Stock: Standard A2
Grip: Standard A2
Bolt Carrier: Hard Chrome plated
Magazine: (2) Postban 10 round magazine
Overall length: 38.25"
Weight w/out handle: 9.25 lbs approx.
Warranty: 3 years

This is the AR15.com Limited Edition Group Purchase 2002 rifle. Last years was a Rock River Arms in a M4 type set up. If you want more info, go to AR15.com and look under Limted Edition Group Purchase forum. All you do is register on AR15.com, then go to Castle-Arms and order from their web page.
 

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Is the lettering on the lower etched, stamped or a decal? Sounds like an exceptional deal with all of the components installed that are add-ons to others.

Quaker, Here's a place that has exceptional quality in parts(my $.02). They have a complete rifle kit for $700. All new parts, you put it together.....which is not hard at all.

DPMS

Here's another
Bushmaster
I don't think Bushmaster has a complete kit, the lower is extra.

:sniper:

After going back and reading something for a second time, yes
I've had a :beer: or few, a scope is mentioned. One con on scoping an AR is the handle, on A1 and A2 configurations, sets the scope so far off of the barrel it goes against all the I've been taught and have learned about scoped rifles........KEEP THE OBJECTIVE CLOSE TO THE BARREL!!. Unless it's a flat-top your scope is way up in the air. Something to think about.

Keep in mind that The Federalis have limitations on what you can do when building a weapon. State and local laws may be more stringent.

:sniper: :beer:

My scope must be off!!!!!:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
that AR-15.com gun is nice, but they dont come in a flat top model so i can use a scope. a gun just has to have a scope!!!

what is the quality of the kit guns?

the bushmaster site did not have many prices on them.

what specs should i be looking for?
i will be using for a varmit/plinking gun with a scope.
 

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You can use a scope with the AR15.com rifle. Here's a link to one of the best setups I've seen.
Rifletech

If you want the best scope possible......my $.02 again go here:
Shepherd

Here's a link to my rifle with a Shepherd
Sniper's Remington VLS
They've scaled the pic down I guess to save on space in the system.
:sniper:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
that kind of scope mount is what i was thinking at first, but then i read some stuff here that says when you mount your scope that high it messes up the accuracy at long range
 

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That's why I said what I did about keeping the objective as close to the barrel as possible. To keep your eye in the scope and the bullet in the barrel as close to syncronization as possible. When you zero a scope it's set for that distance. If the given target is closer to or further from you, you must know how to compensate in the scope for the difference. Maybe I'm not following you. If you zero a scope at 100 yards then put the crosshairs on something 500 yard out you're not going to hit. Trajectory, coefficient, powder, load and bullet weight and length are all factors, not matter what caliber or weapon.

Maybe I've had too many

:sniper: :beer:
Still can't hit the darn thing!!!
 

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Let me try to explain what sniper was saying. Althought eh bullet comes out of the barrel relatively straight, gravity kicks in and pulls the bullet to the ground (trajectory). If a scope is 2 inches from the barrel, it sees in a straight line. Therefore, for the bullet to actually hit what your crosshairs are on, it shoots up a little. The bullets path is like an arch. For example, one could setup the following. The bullet leaves the barrel 2 inches beneath the crosshair's aimpoint. The bullet travels up with distance to meet the crosshairs aimpoint (maybe 75 yards), then the bullet goes above the aimpoint (maybe 1 inch high at 100 yards). Gravity is pulling this bullet down, and therefore it will cross the aimpoint again (maybe 150 yards), and sinks further with distance. Therefore, depending on the size of your target, you have to judge the distance, and aim over or under accordingly. The higher the scope is mounted, the steeper the trajectory path (kinda).
 
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