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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Both from Brownells. Cost the same. One requires some baking - a trivial effort.
Which one is more durable?

I want to paint some or all visible parts of my stainless mini black. Should I? Especially the barrel?

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Ouch, paint a ss gun black? Why? I'd have to assume you just don't like the silver look, or want a non-reflective surface? You might consider buying a second blued mini and having it parkerized. That would be much more durable than paint, though I have no experience with the paint you mention.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've ordered an Ultimak which is black. It does not cover the slide rod, so I thought it would look much better black.

Second, I've got Mini as a survival rifle - that's why it is stainless. I do not really like bright colored guns. So I was thinking of painting the visible surfaces of the receiver and the bolt in addition to the handle.

Third, I'd like to paint the lower gas block half (the upper part is replaced by Ultimak), the barrel and the muzzle brake.

Raf painted his gun with Aluma Hyde - and promised to post the results and he seemed to like it on the mags but I wonder how it olds on the barrel.

Raf, are you there? How did it come out?

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I've used the Alumahyde II on my Ishapore Enfield. It is very slow drying. Don't handle it for at least two days.

I would go with the baking enamel if you have a oven it will fit in.

Dennis Jenkins

Originally posted by fastang50
Ouch, paint a ss gun black? Why? I'd have to assume you just don't like the silver look, or want a non-reflective surface? You might consider buying a second blued mini and having it parkerized. That would be much more durable than paint, though I have no experience with the paint you mention.
 

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I don't know about the Aluma_Hyde II paint but I bought the Teflon/Moly black for when I do my SS Mini. Bead blast & degrease then spray, allow to dry then bake @ 350 degrees. The finish is suppose to be dull like a parkerized finish plus the Teflon & Moly have lubricating properties. From what others have said this finish is pretty tough. I guess I'll see for myself. This stuff is pricey for all you get.

Good luck
Bushwack
 

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I have used baking laq. finish on 1910 Browning 380,CZ52 Pistol I put combat sights put on,308 Ishy scout,and a MAS 36 that has a 7.62X39 camber insert and was sporterized by the importers in the 50's.All guns were basket cases when I got them for a song,so I didn't damage any collectors value.Ishy allready had barrel cut down with a hack saw!This stuff holds up well and is very easy to get a nice finish "I use the satin black"I use the 1910 as my CCW,and have carried it every day for 2 years and its held up well.You don't have to get a mirror polish as for bluing.And I have cleaned deep pits with acid,flushed filled pits with high temp expoxy,sanded flush,3 coats of baking laq.,cook paint at 350 for 30 minutes,and it came out very nice,and holds up well.I will never blue a gun again!Just my 2 cents.Aldo
 

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I would go with the Teflon/Moly from Brownells or other competitor. It cost about $25 per spray can.
And as someone else stated, you get the lube properties of the Moly.
Recently covered an FAL with this stuff and it turned out great.
It comes in about 6 colors; green, brown, black, park gray, etc.
I will try to post a picture for you.
I'm planning on covering a Ruger stainless bolt action I have too.

This is the procedure I used:
1) sand blast or scuff up the surface with sand paper
-put some rubber gloves on, grease from your hands ya know-
2) degreased with simple green cleaner in the kitchen sink
3) immediately put the degreased parts into a warm oven to dry
4) let them cool to about 100 deg
5) put three coats of teflon/moly on
6) bake in oven for about 20 minutes at 350deg.
 

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You guys probably don't know how many times I've torn my mini apart to check this or check that for you guys, now ya made me stick my mini in the oven. :rolleyes: My girl friend gave me one of those looks, but before she could say any thing I said: "It's my oven, don't ask!" Bawhahahaha :D mine fits minus the stock, and scope.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I've ordered the baking laquer on the philosophy that anything that requires greater effort must be working better in the end. :)

And what if SHTF during the week the aluma-hyde is curing?

I will prpbably start with the operating rod/handle and the lower part of the gas block to match the incoming Ultimak mount. Then I'll see how it goes and report.

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