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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know this subject has been discussed in length by many but being a newbe to this I have to ask. I've glassed wood stocks for bolt action rifles before but looking at my Mini synthetic where do you glass these babies. It looks to me that the recoil lugs(so to speak) run down from the center of the reciever where the trigger group latches in. That area appears to be up tight as well as the flat on top that the reciever sits on. I do see presure/ stress on the barrel when the gas block is put in place and the barreled action is tightened down. Should the reciever be glassed so this doesn't happen? Just for giggles I put together the action and trigger group and left the gas block off, eliminating any presure on the barrel. I shot a group at 50 yards that wasn't bad(with no sand bags) I have a muzzel break on the end which didn't do much for the groupings, now I'm looking at the glass thing. Thanks for any info. This is a very interesting forum. I'm learning lots. :ar15:
 

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Welcome to the forum RW26. Bedding the mini consists of bedding the Stock to the Stock Reinforcement (some synthetic stocks, do not have a stock Reinforcement), and bedding the stock reinforcement to the receiver. Mike Knifong makes a good video on bedding the mini, and adjusting the gas operating the slide rod/bolt assembly's. Your correct the primary bredding is around the receiver especially the recoil lugs, and the top of the stock, under the receiver. I didn't bed this area on my Hogue stock as it is rubber under the receiver, but I could have removed the rubber, and bedded it. I used Acreglass Gel Kit. (green box)

You shot your mini with the gas blocks removed? I don't believe you mean gas blocks, as this would mean the slide rod, slide rod spring, would be out of the rifle, therefore the bolt would be inopp! Do you mean the "Forearm liner & Stock Cap Assembly"? This part needs to be in your rifle when firing is its primary function serves as a guide for your slide rod assy. Without it the slide rod assy will hammer on your gas pipe, and could break.:eek:

There is a mod for adjusting the Forearm liner & Stock Cap Assembly barrel stress. I believe it is to reform the flange end, may have to remove some material from the mating part of your forestock. I haven't done this myself, but read it being done about a year ago. Use search.

Use the search button upper right, and enter key words. Many related posts will come up with your key words in red.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cajungeo

Thanks for the reply. My mini has a factory sythetic that could be milled out to allow room for bedding material. Does that (green box) glass stick to the sythetic material?

I haven't the right terminology when I refered to the gas block. I ment to say that all the action was together, I just didn't have the end cap that clamps to the barrel on the rifle. There wasn't the presure point that is normally there when the gun is fully assembled. Thus it was, for the most part, floating the barrel. I wanted to see if the barrel, by it self, would shoot any respectable groups. I've seen light weight bolt rifles with light barrels, in .223, shoot 1-11/2 groups, so by eliminating that cap preasure the barrel is free except for some very slight (which could be a facter) touching on the gas block arm, up front. (not sure of what it's called) If it shoots good from this point, I can work forward from there. I hope that make sense.
 

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You can down load a manual for your mini, Ref the New Ruger Website sticky at the top of the mini-14 talk section. It has a schematic, and parts list.

The Acraglass is epoxy, and glass. If the stock is a fiberglass stock, removing oil, grease, then abraiding is all thats needed. If the stock has a lot of plastic such as butler creek stocks, I'd drill or dremmel some shallow holes to form a mechanical lock for the Acraglass to bond to.
 
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