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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
With all the work I have done to the mini I have finally got a very accurate rifle. At the range, We consistenly got 1.00 inch groups using handloaded ammo. We initially set up at 50 yards and ended at 100 yards. The second barrel shroud I made worked great. Now I need another project.
 

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bybon- very nice job indeed ! Am having thesame problem (4-6" groups @ 100 yds.) due to "barrel whip" of cheap,thin tube.Being a machinist,you have solved its' inherent problem (whip).I have seen the fix of the barrel sleeve by Clark,but can't bring myself to spend that amount of cash.By the way what was your handload you used ? Thanks, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
IMR 4198 with 21.5 grs. Always liked the way this load felt. Now it is in an accurate rifle. This is my favorite bullet. Speer FMJ 55 Grain. Also like RX7 at 21 grains. Winchester primers small rifle. If you have a friend that is a machinest, he can make you this PDQ and should not cost much either for stock. Making a sight for the barrel would be quick and easy, but for now I have to use my old 4x Weaver. Unlike the other "store bought" shroud, I made this one to just touch the back of the barrel with a special little trick I picked up from working in the semi-conductor field. If there are others interested I can post the specifics. Hope this helps
 

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thanks bybon for the loading data and what is your accurate load in your mini.As I've onlt had the carbine for less than a month,I've not had a chance to shoot again,but will work up several load and see how they do in mine. Appreciate your help, Bill
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I will send it to you to try. The .250 rods that hold the shroud together have been coated in a black moly. I did about five of my guns like that and it is great. You will have to remove the front sight and do a little polishing on the front of the barrel to get a nice tight fit. I used Loctite to put in on and heat to take it off. I would be very interested to see if this works on another mini. Remember though, I shortened my barrel a bit and put a target crown to it. Come to think of it, I could probably drill and tap some holes so the shroud could be put on with set screws. Only problem are the marks you would have on the barrel. Just send me postage and I will get it off to you. If you like it we can work something out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
not much to it. A couple pieces of SS held together with SS rods. If you do a little searching on this site, you will find other posts I have concerning what I have done to the rifle. But I will say thougt, the balance is perfect an dit shoots great. I just bought an AR 15, and was thinking of selling the mini. AR's can be a little finicky at times. However, the mini will take a beating an still shoot. I am making a shorter version of this and it really looks cool. I will post results. Any more question, contact me.
 
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Bybon,
Is your shroud "free floating", with no parts touching at the gas block? If so, it theoretically works by dampening barrel harmonics and perhaps by stiffening the barrel.

I've always wanted to do a "post tension" type of barrel shroud for the mini, like the Dan Wesson revolvers have. This would have the shroud actually bottomed firmly against an adapter that seated against the gas block. The muzzle is threaded, 1/2" Diam X 28 TPI for 3/4", for an AR-15 style muzzle brake . Then machine a tensioning tube to fit between the two ends. Basically, you stretch the barrel between two immoveable objects. Torque until groups shrink.

Anybody done anything like this?

Also interesting would be the AR-15 flashider with a lock ring alone. Just like the Browning BOSS, you could thread it in or out to tune. Unfortunately, this would probably not shrink groups with all loads, but you might be able to come up with a couple of loads that shot spectacular groups.

Or you could combine the two - start with the BOSS/flashider alone, then add sthe hroud as ambition dictated.
 
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