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I put this together a while ago. Just an old single stage press mounted on the wall. I would like the handle to be a little longer. Some of these require a lot of pull to run through the die. You’re mainly just swaging the base and rim of the load, the part of a case that the sizer die doesn’t touch. The spring pops the round into the box when it clears the die.
 

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I'm still building my bench out in the garage -- but I am planning on loading .45 ACP to get started!

I got the following components to start with:
Powder: Unique
Bullets: Rem Golden Saber 230 HP and Rem FMJ 230

I got the press (3 of 'em, actually), dies, primers, brass ..... just lacking the workspace. :rolleyes:

Anyone have any input on Unique in this caliber? I went with it because it looked to be versatile in use for a few other calibers that I'm interested in loading for.
I used it for years, I have used several different powders, and have settled on 231or HP-38 .
 

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chill1955.....has your ejection port been shaped for maximum clearance ??
No sir can you explain the procedure a little bit for me please? But I think I found the issue. I did a lot of engineering deconstructing mechanical issues in assemblies so I took a very simple approach. Excluding all of the die setting and case diameters and loads. But with SWC bullets it becomes a function of what works in your pistol. That's why the SWC data in thread after thread in forum after forum all have different "swearby" data for COL. Once I internalized that then it became simple. For a simple test I loaded a factory FMJ over the top of one of mine in the magazine and if it cycles I'm underpowered with 5.7 grains of unique and or my loads in the magazine are causing a collision upon ejection that could not be overcome. The factory load's case heel left a witness mark in the lead at roughly a 1.280 COL. I started based on jumbled data at 1.270ish and based on the collective beliefs I had loaded some down to 1.230 nearly flush case edge to shoulder of bullet. Now all I have to do for testing is make a dummy round for me the dummy put it in the mag and fire a factory over it. If the pistol cycles I will move down in .005 increments until it hangs up the ejection, then move back out the .005 and make up a batch of ten should do it. I need as much bullet in the case as I can get so I'll play with it till I get the shortest COL with 100% reliability. This has been a trip for sure.
 

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chill1955......most companies, in an attempt to make their pistols more "attractive" don't elongate the eject port, they also don't "open" the front of the port top & bottom edge OR remove the material from the rear external area of the port that allows the rim to clear the port more cleanly......for the best tutorial on this, and WHY it helps, visit the "1911 forum" and search "dressing ejection port".

it can make a gun that stovepipes or FTE occasionally, a 100% runner.

you may also want to check the tension on your extractor and shape of your claw as both of these will effect ejection as well............
 

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I guess because I always loaded revolvers with SWC bullets for general use. I thought nothing of it ordering these Bayou Bullet 200 grains for the 45. The pistol fires everything else fine from 185 grain hollow points to the 230 grain ball ammo no problems. With this barrel by the time I get a zero clearance (the longest the round can seat), the ejecting case( ball ammo for test), the heel is scoring the shoulder of the next round up. Which is just too close to not functioning for me. 1.268 is too long and will not drop flush. At 1.265 I am flush but the heel is just scoring the lead on the shoulder of the waiting round. It has been a journey and I learned way more than I needed about reloading the 45 acp but these bullets are paper weights now. Midway had some jacketed 200 grain hollow points on sale so I bought a 100 just to load some up. I'll end up buying the round nose lead probably this fall when the rains start.
I will do the port because it sounds like a do no harm improvement but for the semi wad cutter in my XD service pistol if you have one grab it and pull the slide back. Notice how the barrel cants up slightly at the muzzle that translates to the spent case heel being extracted at a slight downward angle which exacerbates the sharp shoulder round in the magazine. My extractor took a beating chewing up some rims on ejection interruptions. I took a 10x loop and looked at two factory rounds yesterday that ejected and I couldn't see any extractor marks from being damaged. I will pull the extractor out this fall and see about claw angle vs barrel angle. Your thinking possibly reshape the claw surface to negate the barrel angle for a flatter ejection correct? Thank for coaching, The nine I have was no problem to reload. This 45 bugger had me tied up.
 

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I was actually worried about "too much claw" holding the empty rim too tight and not releasing properly, BUT it sounds like you're on the trail now !
 

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All right: So I tapped down the extractor and tested. FMJ ejecting still took a swipe at the lead shoulder but it cycled with no extractor tears on the ejected round. So I went back upstairs and tapped it down until it hit whatever is supposed to stop it's movement. repeated test, FMJ ejects and left a very small shoulder gouge. I had a batch that I shortened down to shoulder of SWC just above the case 1.235 from 1.265 which was a flush fit on the drop test. At 1.235 there is a mark seen on 5x magnification on the shoulder. I'm gonna call that good on this batch of SWC. I don't compete so my burn rate on ammunition is slow enough I can get some 185 grain XTP hollow points on their way to me and we'll try a 100 of those. But that was a very strange journey glad I kept digging and found the extractor dumb $hit I pulled and learned a lot about 45 acp in a Springfield at least!
Update:
Beautiful evening last night went out with a full mag and not one of them cycled! The minor collisions on ejection are moving the extractor back to where it was! Calling Springfield Monday I'll try to get to a tech and put the BS on bypass. Quite the experience thus far. Dammit!
Springfield. Nice folks Mike said hell no, it should feed anything. RMA and a drop off today.
 

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OK, getting here late. Not sure of some of the terms used here, or exactly what the poster means, but if I don't get what you want right I am sure it is my fault for not being 100% right now.

OK, FIRST, and I mean FIRST! Get AND READ the three "best beginners" reloading manuals, "Metallic Cartridge Reloading 3rd ed", "Lee Modern Reloading 2nd ed" (it had better be good, I edited it for Dick the Lee! IGNORE all the lies about the Lee warranty, the warranty is a sick joke and trash. I keep hearing stories by netters, but my experience is it is totally worthless. That seems to be the experience of actual people too, only the "netters" seem to do OK.

I have personally owned or used all Lee presses, except the Cast Classics. They are junk. From what I hear, the cast presses run hot and cold too. Did not get any credit for editing the book from Dick the dick either - just ask anyone who talked to the Dick what that means - which is funny as he whines about some else doing that to him when he sent a letter to some guy and the guy used the info and Dickie didn't get any credit!), any of the last few Lyman manuals (I personally liked 49 better than 50, but have not seen the latest volume, all are good).

Avoid junk reloading equipment! Dillon, Lyman, RCBS, Redding, Forster, all have LIFE TIME warranties that they stand behind. Lee has a two year warranty and they do NOT stand behind it! Yes I have got Lee to replace stuff that was so obviously defective that even they couldn't weasel out of it have never got a junk press, even one they ADMITTED was defective from the factory heat treating - yes I have the letter! - replaced. Small stuff, usually/sort of (get a nasty letter back with new one), but anything over a couple busks? Forget it and buy QUALITY, life is too short to screw with these scum. I have heard that QC is "better" after Tricky Dick left, not ''good", but "better", do not know that from personal experience.

Avoid junk reloading equipment! Dillon, Lyman, RCBS, Redding, Forster, all have LIFE TIME warranties that they stand behind. Lee has a two year warranty and they do NOT stand behind it! Yes I have got Lee to replace stuff that was so obviously defective that even they couldn't weasel out of it have never got a junk press, even one they ADMITTED was defective from the factory heat treating - yes I have the letter! - replaced. Small stuff, usually/sort of (get a nasty letter back with new one), but anything over a couple busks? Forget it and buy QUALITY, life is too short to screw with these scum. I have heard that QC is "better" after Tricky Dick left, not ''good", but "better", do not know that from personal experience.

LOVE Lee dies (especially the "factory die") and bullet lub (Zebart is the exact same thing, and you can often find it on e-bay for a LOT cheaper! Designed for the US Navy for use on exposed metal), the case lubs always seem to crack the plastic bottles after a year or so and dry up. AEvery one I have ever bought! I have never found a Lee press that was very good, but my 45 year old RCBS Rock Chucker is doing fine! FINALLY bought a Dillion, LOVE IT! Best buy I ever made!

The Lee Load Master is a load of SOMETHING all right! Have never seen a working Lee LM. Keep hearing about them, but when I show up to actually see this 8th wonder of the world, it suddenly is gone, kids sick, wife sick, not set up, etc., etc. EVERY SINGLE TIME! Go to the Lee web sites, these are people who LIKE Lee presses and see what THEY have to say about the Lee LM and Lee presses in general and THEN tell me I'm full of it! If you have one that works, great, LOVE to see it! Like I said, been all over the US, get told about them, Never seen one I was told about when I showed up!

As to dies, and I have all of these, Dillion/Forster/Redding are the "best", but cost it too! When you have to have the very best, buy these! RCBS, Lee (cheapest of the dies and I have more of them an any other, due to price and excellent, especially for the price!), Hornady are VG, Lyman seems to be either as good or better than any, or not worth owning, no idea why. Have a few other brands too.

I normally use Winchester primers, don't recall any "bad" brands of primers, but avoid Rem primers because I have had, and still have, so many problems with Rem .22s. If they can't get the .22s to work, I just don't feel right about using their primers if I can avoid it. 2/3rds of shooting is mental, why worry about a 2 cent primer if a different brand is "better"? I know top shooters who prefer just about every brand of primer out there over any other brand of primer. Find what you like and stick with it.

Personally I like Win 231 (recently replaced) and Hodgdon P-38 (go to Hodgdon web site, SAME POWDER, different name. Always was!) for the .45 ACP, and just about everything except magnums. P-38 is cheaper to buy though. Bullseye is the original pistol powder, used in ALL WWI/WWII pistol cartridges loaded for the military. NOT for the .30 M1 Carbine though! Unique, Bullseye, 700X, Titegroup, etc. are all great powders and have their uses. I just like Win 231 (now Win 233?) to keep the number of powders down to a "reasonable" number to stock. Yeah, right!

To check your cartridges (rifle AND pistol!) take the barrel out of an auto and drop them in. If they drop right in and head space, GREAT! If they don't, find out why and correct it! Use the cylinder to check revolvers and run your rifle cartridges through the rifle. I got (was given) a Dillion case checker, though it was a joke, bought all the others BEST buy I ever made, out side of a Dillion press(es)! Highly recommended!

Told I am running out of time! More later!
 

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Good Job! My XD won't run semi wad cutters but my .45 brick on a stick carbine runs them just fine. I did find GT Bullets who has some unique offerings in lead. 200 grain hollow point with the ogive/profile of an FMJ runs just fine!
 

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I'm strictly shooting lead these days, as I found a solid source for reasonable, powder coated bullets. For the past 15+yrs, been putting 200swc & 230rn bullets, over 4.0 & 4.5grs of Bullseye. I just made the bump up to 4.5grs, as my TRP Op wants to cycle a liitle bit faster, that extra half grain is MUCHO better!
 
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