The outside diameter of the barrel on my 187 series Ranch Rifle becomes smaller somewhere between the gas block and the front sight. It's a stepped decrease and not gradual or tapered. Probably normal on the early skinny barrel Minis.
182 Series Mini-14 Barrel has two diameters?
Is it normal for Mini-14 barrels to have two diameters?
In other words if you clamp the barrel at the receiver end with both fingers and then drag them to the end tip of the barrel, you note there is a slight step where the diameter of the barrel becomes smaller.
I noted some Rugers have a bayonet fitting around about where the barrel changes diameter. Is that the reason or perhaps this barrel has been machined and modified?
In other words if you clamp the barrel at the receiver end with both fingers and then drag them to the end tip of the barrel, you note there is a slight step where the diameter of the barrel becomes smaller.
I noted some Rugers have a bayonet fitting around about where the barrel changes diameter. Is that the reason or perhaps this barrel has been machined and modified?
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Probably over tightening the screws on the gas block.
Would it affect performance/safety?Probably over tightening the screws on the gas block.
Maybe a good TIG welder could fix the crack but then the torque of the screws would have to be just perfect
Do you live in Australia? I don't know how hard it is to get a replacement lower gas block for a semi-automatic rifle there.
easier to get a nuclear reactor fuel cell......Do you live in Australia? I don't know how hard it is to get a replacement lower gas block for a semi-automatic rifle there.
Probably would affect accuracy given how different torques on those screws can affect accuracy.
I would be concerned about safely shooting that gun in that condition.
I would be concerned about safely shooting that gun in that condition.
Yeah, online plenty of warnings from users saying that the gas block should not be tampered with. Given there are four screws it makes sense that accuracy can suffer
I think you have a real safety issue there. I would get that part welded up before attempting to fire it again. The best option would be to send it in to a Ruger certified armorer for Mini 14/30, if not Ruger themselves.
Agree.
Thought the crack may have been due to someone using the more powerful 5.56 NATO ammunition, or that the barrel may be an after market one. Unlikely
Note how the gap on the side of the gas block is smaller than the gap next to the barrel. This indicates those bolts are probably too tight. Not factory original.
If Ruger wanted to have those bolts tightened to max torque they would have designed plates that met : not with a visible gap.
The gap probably plays a role in giving some elasticity to the two plates when the bullet explodes through the barrel. Hence the torgue on those 4 bolts must be "just right"
Thought the crack may have been due to someone using the more powerful 5.56 NATO ammunition, or that the barrel may be an after market one. Unlikely
Note how the gap on the side of the gas block is smaller than the gap next to the barrel. This indicates those bolts are probably too tight. Not factory original.
If Ruger wanted to have those bolts tightened to max torque they would have designed plates that met : not with a visible gap.
The gap probably plays a role in giving some elasticity to the two plates when the bullet explodes through the barrel. Hence the torgue on those 4 bolts must be "just right"
I would think either over-tightening of the gas block screws, a defect in the casting, or both. IIRC, Ruger specs 40 in/lbs for those screws, but member sandog has done some experiments which indicate that 25 in/lb of torque may give better accuracy. Strongly suggest replacing the 4 screws with new ones, since existing screws may have been over-torqued.Thanks for that.
If a SS MIni 14 has a crack similar to the image below, what would be the cause?
View attachment 69430
No expert, but the gas block being cracked like that may well be a safety concern. Someone who is expert at TIG welding stainless steel may be able to repair it, but it may be cheaper to buy a replacement. If you live in an area with either aerospace and/or marine repair facilities, likely there is someone who can weld it, BUT you will need to have the weld machined so that the gas block fits the barrel properly (post welding), AND you will need to find a repair person who is familiar with repairing cracked metal; the "closed" end of the crack will need to be drilled prior to welding to eliminate stress at the end of the crack. I don't believe the gas block itself is a "factory-fitted" part, so buying a replacement (as long as the gas block fits the specific O.D. of your barrel at that point) should be possible. Usual sources would be Ruger, Accuracy Systems Inc, and Numrich.
IDK if shipping that part to Australia presents any legal problems, since the part itself is not technically a firearm, simply a repair part. If Ruger, ASI, or any vendor has "issues" with shipping the part to AUS, perhaps a friend can buy it for you and ship it to you as long as doing so does not incur any legal penalty on their part.
Best of luck!
No more than 30 inch lbs. 20 -24 inch lbs. Would be ideal.Agree.
Thought the crack may have been due to someone using the more powerful 5.56 NATO ammunition, or that the barrel may be an after market one. Unlikely
Note how the gap on the side of the gas block is smaller than the gap next to the barrel. This indicates those bolts are probably too tight. Not factory original.
If Ruger wanted to have those bolts tightened to max torque they would have designed plates that met : not with a visible gap.
The gap probably plays a role in giving some elasticity to the two plates when the bullet explodes through the barrel. Hence the torgue on those 4 bolts must be "just right"
When you are ready to install the repaired/new gas block. let us know because there are some simple "tricks" to installing it. Mostly common sense.Thanks for that.
If a SS MIni 14 has a crack similar to the image below, what would be the cause?
View attachment 69430
You might want to use this situation as an opportunity to replace the OEM too-wide gas bushing with a smaller I.D. unit from Accuracy Systems Inc. Many users report "good things" after doing so, myself amongst them. I used the .045 gas bushing, a common choice, but get the kit just in case.
Ruger Mini 14 30 Gas Reduction Bushing Kit Accuracy Systems Inc (ruger-mini-14-firearms.com)
Do these gas bushings differ in OD/ID across the early years or are they all one standard factory size 0.085"? Makes sense not to have the spent cartridge fly so far away to make them hard to collect.
Is the gas block the same or does that also vary through the years? This is a 182 series (1981?)
Is the gas block the same or does that also vary through the years? This is a 182 series (1981?)
Gas Block is much smaller on a 180- than yours. Not sure about the newer 580+ series. I've heard some of the more recent bushings can be as large as 0.100".
For those who wish to torque the gas block themselves, there is a neat little tool used by bicycle mechanics and DIYers that makes a great item for your Mini's range bag. That is the preset torque "T" hex bit wrench in 3Nm(3 Newton meters). That is eqivalent to 26.55 inch pounds. Just supply the 9/64" hex bit and follow the torquing sequence for a four bolt pattern.
Steep learning curve for these Rugers
The Accuracy Systems page has very useful information:
When screwing down the block I'd use the technique used in bolting down the head of an engine block: L1, R2, L2, R1.... in very small increments, Feel that this will better distribute the forces.
These Minis have been around for nearly 50 years and Ruger is a formidable manufacturer. Why has Ruger retained it necessary to fit such large gas bushings throughout the years despite knowing that many users replace them with smaller ones?
The Accuracy Systems page has very useful information:
- Our bushings will be slightly longer than the factory size to prevent bushing bounce which can damage the bushing. This is due to the factory's bushings being of one size fits all which is not correct because we have found that after measuring the hole depth in hundreds of factory barrels the depths of the hole is inconsistent from barrel to barrel. Our adjusted size is a better overall length so you will not have to trim them 99% of the time.
- THE LENGTHS DO NOT NEED TO BE TRIMMED FOR THE FACTORY GAS BLOCKS!
6 It is best if you remove both screws on one side first which will take some tension off of the opposite side’s screws.
10 Install the bushing and reassemble in reverse order the rifle as it was taken down. When re tightening your gas block screws 40 inch pounds is recommended!
11 Now test fire your rifle. The main goal is to achieve 4 to 10 feet of ejection and reliable cycling of the rifle.
When screwing down the block I'd use the technique used in bolting down the head of an engine block: L1, R2, L2, R1.... in very small increments, Feel that this will better distribute the forces.
Think this lower torque is smart.No more than 30 inch lbs. 20 -24 inch lbs. Would be ideal.
These Minis have been around for nearly 50 years and Ruger is a formidable manufacturer. Why has Ruger retained it necessary to fit such large gas bushings throughout the years despite knowing that many users replace them with smaller ones?
Probably for reliability under most conditions.
Hell, just take a look at those buggered up gas block hex screws and anyone can clearly see that they were most likely over torqued and no doubt led to the crack in the block.
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