[COBrien]

I've been wanting to upgrade the trigger on my new 10/22 A/W and its "Plastic Fantastic" components. Checked out Brimstone, Swampfox, and GunDoc, as well as the drop-in kits.

One thing I noticed is that all the high-end trigger jobs and kits include an overtravel screw. eBay is chock full of aftermarket triggers by Rimfire Technologies, KIDD, Power Custom, et al. They all range from $20 to $40 for just the trigger blade.

At this point, I'd rather save my money for ammo when it becomes available. Not to mention I appreciate a rifle that looks more or less factory...

A quick trip to the hardware store led me to a #8-32x5/16" set screw at the low price of $0.37. Got up this morning, stripped my trigger group, and drilled myself a 9/64" hole in the center of the trigger, just below the ledge for the return plunger.

While I had it apart, I chucked the plunger up in my cordless drill and knocked the edges off it with a 320-grit sanding block. Don't know if it helped, but it couldn't hurt, right?

All back together, and it feels like a different rifle. Granted, the trigger weight hasn't actually changed, but the OT screw definitely makes it feel crisper.

 

[Marlin 45 carbine]

good idea, thanks. I bought 2 10/22 just after t-giving with idea of some tweaking but keeping factory appearance

 

[Donnel]

yes, all triggers benefit from a solid "stop" at the end of their travel, but DA trigger pulls have to have a bit more leeway, typically, or the stop will cause trouble. this is especially apparent in really rapidfire, ie, 4 hits per second or faster.

 

[COBrien]

Gratuitous pics to help show where the screw ended up...

You can probably see that the 5/16" ended up being exactly the right length to avoid sticking through the face of the trigger when properly adjusted.

Edited to Add: The trigger group will still be going to GunDoc at some point, but this should tide me over until I can stick back some of my "monthly gun budget" money. :lol:

 

[Xylob the destroyer]

yes, all triggers benefit from a solid "stop" at the end of their travel, but DA trigger pulls have to have a bit more leeway, typically, or the stop will cause trouble. this is especially apparent in really rapidfire, ie, 4 hits per second or faster.

You dudes do realize that this IS gunkid/tap/whoa under a new name... right?

 

[COBrien]

yes, all triggers benefit from a solid "stop" at the end of their travel, but DA trigger pulls have to have a bit more leeway, typically, or the stop will cause trouble. this is especially apparent in really rapidfire, ie, 4 hits per second or faster.

I'll have to keep that in mind on my next DA 10/22 build...:wacko:

 

[Bam Bam]

yes, all triggers benefit from a solid "stop" at the end of their travel, but DA trigger pulls have to have a bit more leeway, typically, or the stop will cause trouble. this is especially apparent in really rapidfire, ie, 4 hits per second or faster.

If you aint Gunkid then he has a internet twin. I am a big fan btw.

You are the funniest guy I have ever encountered on the net.:lol:

You are a legend!

You should not have stole your wife's guns though.

 

[Adjuster]

How about the free mod?

I used a very short, very small/same diameter broken micro drill bit end, that's the same size as the plunger that goes INTO the spring on the plunger.

So, look at your 1022. The plunger is rounded to run on the trigger on one side, and then has a taper cut, to hold the spring in place, with the small part that sticks into the spring...

But there is only so much depth to the hole the plunger/spring sits in.

What you need to do, is measure how long the plunger is, how deep your plunger hole is, and how long the "pin" part is.... (See where this is going yet? LOL)

Now, the one I have is about 1/8" long, if that.

It PREVENTS the plunger from going back any further than it needs to, yet still allows the action/trigger to work as designed.

But there is no need to drill and tap a hole, or adjust it further.

I did the final adjustment on how long the "Insert" is with a file and vice grips to hold the pin while I filed it down to just the right length.

I did have to fit and remove this a few times to get it right. You want the trigger to just release the hammer, and allow it to re-set with the movement of the bolt, then go forward just enough to reset the trigger so you can then go back again and release the sear/hammer.

Add in the highly polished parts, and other mods on this rifle, and it's amazingly easy to rip off 25 rounds, but it's totally controllable, with no issues at all.

Best off all, it's free. Does not look modded either. (the pin you add sits in the plunger spring, you can put a dab of thick oil on the spring to help retain the little insert while you put it all back together again, but the plunger is not something I clean often, or at all, so I used synthetic oil, and it's worked fine for quite a while now.)

Cost? Zero, since I had the broken little drill bit end in my "spare nuts/bolts/shims/washers drawer...

BTW, did this for a few friends 1022's and they were shocked to see how easy it is to do this, and it's free for them too. Heck, on one, we used a short piece of bamboo from a skewer... (Yes, very low tech, but it's worked fine for him so far, and it was slightly larger, so it "stuck" into the spring, making it easy to install correctly.)

A round tooth pick would work come to think of it.

 

[COBrien]

Good call! Hadn't thought about a pin in the return spring. Sneaky... :lol:

 

[Chris C]

I think I'd go with your method, CObrien. Yours is adjustable if you want to change it.........either more or less travel. I've done that exact thing to a lot of revolvers. It's a very effective "fix".

 

[Adjuster]

Shorter, longer pin.. totally adjustable...

I adjusted mine with a file, down to just where I wanted it, and guess what? When I changed out to the power custom hammer/sear set, It was wrong, so I made a new one.. No biggie, just a few quick measurements, and it was done, and hardly needed to be filed at all.

I think if I do many more, I'll be so quick, I should offer it as a service, and make my millions so Obama can whine about me not paying my fair share.... LOL

 

[Yoteman]

I've done it both ways and for me the set screw works best. I always use a little 242 Locktite (blue). I ordered several triggers from Ruger and did them all at the same time for friends who wanted them. So many mods...... so little ammo!:wacko:

 

[Adjuster]

I need to pull my brother's new TS 1022 apart, and pin the overtravel on the trigger..

Dang nice 1022 with all the billet parts. Dang expensive, but dang nice.

 

[Yoteman]

How about the free mod?

I used a very short, very small/same diameter broken micro drill bit end, that's the same size as the plunger that goes INTO the spring on the plunger.

So, look at your 1022. The plunger is rounded to run on the trigger on one side, and then has a taper cut, to hold the spring in place, with the small part that sticks into the spring...

But there is only so much depth to the hole the plunger/spring sits in.

What you need to do, is measure how long the plunger is, how deep your plunger hole is, and how long the "pin" part is.... (See where this is going yet? LOL)

Now, the one I have is about 1/8" long, if that.

It PREVENTS the plunger from going back any further than it needs to, yet still allows the action/trigger to work as designed.

But there is no need to drill and tap a hole, or adjust it further.

I did the final adjustment on how long the "Insert" is with a file and vice grips to hold the pin while I filed it down to just the right length.

I did have to fit and remove this a few times to get it right. You want the trigger to just release the hammer, and allow it to re-set with the movement of the bolt, then go forward just enough to reset the trigger so you can then go back again and release the sear/hammer.

Add in the highly polished parts, and other mods on this rifle, and it's amazingly easy to rip off 25 rounds, but it's totally controllable, with no issues at all.

Best off all, it's free. Does not look modded either. (the pin you add sits in the plunger spring, you can put a dab of thick oil on the spring to help retain the little insert while you put it all back together again, but the plunger is not something I clean often, or at all, so I used synthetic oil, and it's worked fine for quite a while now.)

Cost? Zero, since I had the broken little drill bit end in my "spare nuts/bolts/shims/washers drawer...

BTW, did this for a few friends 1022's and they were shocked to see how easy it is to do this, and it's free for them too. Heck, on one, we used a short piece of bamboo from a skewer... (Yes, very low tech, but it's worked fine for him so far, and it was slightly larger, so it "stuck" into the spring, making it easy to install correctly.)

A round tooth pick would work come to think of it.

This is an old mod. We used to use an appropriate length of weed wacker line. It gets it done either way!