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1911 buffer install w/pics

46K views 55 replies 40 participants last post by  tacotime 
#1 · (Edited)
Old post updated, (picture added that was deleted during transition during ownership change over).
I thought I would do a post showing the 1911 buffer installation. It's the same for any buffer. I just use the 1911 because they are cheap :))), they fit, they work, and come in 6-packs :beer: :wacko:

The buffer goes on the recoil spring at the recoil spring/guide rod/receiver junction. You just grab the recoil spring & guide rod as one unit, pull it out of the buffer and buffer cross pin assembly and slip the 1911 buffer on the spring/guide rod over it, with the curved side toward the barrel. Pay special attention to the Tang on the guide rod when you pull it out of the buffer assembly and reinstall. The tang rests on the cross pin and there is only one position that will allow the op rod to cycle correctly. The Tang of the guide rod should always be facing to the top of the mini or the hand guard whichever is easiest to remember. I just remember TT, for Tang Top. There is no tang on the older standard mini 14's, the guide rod just fits into a recess. The tang is only found on the newer minis with the built in scope mounts (tactical) and ranch mini's, old & new. No need to completely remove the recoil spring and guide rod, just pull it back an inch or two to allow enough space to slip the buffer on.
I'm sold on the buffers, they absorb the impact of the op rod into the receiver and prevent metal to metal contact. One buffer should last 500-1000 rounds, they usually come in packs of 6, so one pack should last a long time. A pack usually costs anywhere form $6 to $8 dollars. I use the Wilson brand, there are other brands with different reputations for durability and softness. Some people use them on the front over the gas pipe in the gas block to absorb the front slam of the op rod into the gas block. I always thought they would melt, but after giving one away and having a couple of hundred rounds go through that mini I could see no signs of it melting. But one thing for sure it was taking a lot of impact from the op rod. I plan to try one there in the future. But as I am now working on trying different size gas bushings I am looking to start from a stock position for the gas system and ejection. A buffer in the front will hold the op rod back slightly from seating onto the gas block pipe. It may not matter, but for the gas bushing testing I am doing I don't want to add another variable to the mix right now.
I have not heard of any negative reports from people using the 1911 buffers at the back, but I have heard of reports of some of the commercial mini buffers being to thick and not allowing the bolt to go back far enough to cycle the rounds. In that case people are either shaving the buffer down or cutting them in two making 2 buffers out of 1.

 
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#4 ·
Good Post

I have heard of reports of some of the commercial mini buffers being to thick and not allowing the bolt to go back far enough to cycle the rounds. In that case people are either shaving the buffer down or cutting them in two making 2 buffers out of 1.
As usual, good stuff Walkenbear. I also think these buffers are a good idea, as I have blown out more than one scope on my Mini-14. Nothing more depressing than just getting a scope sighted in, and then the reticle collapses from recoil impact.

Anyway, I found the Bufftech pad too wide, but the thickness was not an issue. I had to give it a trim on two side on my bench grinder before my stock would install around it. Glad to have it on my Mini's though...
 
#5 ·
I made my first one out of mud flap rubber. It seems to work fine. The idea of using a 45 buffer never crossed my mind, and I have a bunch of Wilson buffers lying around.

Thanks for the heads up.
 
#7 ·
Walkenbear,

Good post. I now have Wilson buffers front and back. Only 50 rounds with them to date, but so far, so good. I first made some from a Hoover vacuum cleaner belt. They worked fine for a short time, maybe 20-30 rounds, but the front buffer apparently softened from the gas block heat and stuck to the op rod. Or maybe it just got gunked up from carbon, etc. Whatever the cause, it got gooey and jammed about half way out on the gas pipe where it blocked the op rod and kept it from going into battery. I took it out and threw it away and little Mini ran good once again, albeit with a little more jolt. If I have the same problem with the Wilson buffer at the front, I'm going to ditch it and just go with a rear buffer. I'm interested in how yours works when you get around to putting the front buffer in. Keep us posted.
 
#8 ·
I made my front and rear buffers out of automotive silicon hose, the outer diameter is 13/16" and the inside layer diameter is 1/2". I strip off the outer blue layer and the cord under it and use the orange inner layer. The buffer has a little curve to it but it doesn't seem to affect functioning. I shot about 200 rounds through the gun with the same buffers in place and the heat and gas didn't melt the front buffer. It has also been coated with Hopes #9, Sweets 7.62 and Corrosion-X and is unharmed. I can make a lot of buffers out of my 7 inch piece of left over hose. I'll buy some Wilson buffers at the next gun show and give them a try. I got the best accuracy from my Mini14 with both the front and rear buffers installed.
 
#10 ·
Hey Walkenbear...
Just wanted to drop a line and say that I still have not installed or had the time to experiment with the gas block bushing that I got from you. It's still on my list of things to do...if I ever have time to do anything fun again! I need a Ferris Buellers day off.
Anyway, I will let you know the minute I try them out and state the results.
Now so that this is relevant to this post...
I do have the Wilson buffers in BOTH of my Mini-14's...and I love them! I have them in the front and rear of both.
Randy
 
#11 ·
Have used 1911 buffers on my 180 series for a couple of years. I am now using a "round" rubber washer, 3/8" ID, approx 1/8" thick. works great and moved the flatter 1911 buffer to the front. (cushioned both ends, cuts the recoil)

Ken
 
#18 ·
I got some buff shocks for christmas and installed 2; one on the gas block and the other on the tang. With these and the .042 gas bushing my 581 tactical kicked like a .22. It was cool. You could actually see bullet impact.

I did have to remove one off the gas block. After about 20 rounds, casings started to stove pipe. I actually saw one or two casings roll out and off the action. If your mini will feed, install two. I bet it would work well with a factory/larger diameter gas bushing. It makes for a smooth action and reduces recoil.

Thanks for the tips and gas bushing bear!
 
#19 · (Edited)
I thought I would do a post showing the 1911 buffer installation. It's the same for any buffer. I just use the 1911 because they are cheap :))), they fit, they work, and come in 6-packs :beer: :wacko:
View attachment 15875
Walkenbear, thanks for the post and pictures. You are correct on the standard Mini-14 buffer being too thick. I tried one and it causes my Mini to misfire. I just ordered some 1911 buffers.

Midway probably will bill you $3 bucks for shipping.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=241631.
Wagon, thinks for the link. I went to Midway and low and behold they are having a sale on these buffers. Would up costing more for shipping and handling that the pack of buffers.
 
#20 · (Edited)
...
Pay special attention to the Tang on the guide rod when you pull it out of the buffer assembly and reinstall. The tang rests on the cross pin and there is only one position that will allow the op rod to cycle correctly. The Tang of the guide rod should always be facing to the top of the mini or the hand guard whichever is easiest to remember. I just remember TT, for Tang Top.
...
Newb here. When I read this, I had to check mine. I discovered it is possible to install the tang the opposite way. If I do, the spring doesn't look quite right so you could say it's obvious if it's done wrong, but it is possible.

What will happen if it's assembled wrong. Does anybody know?
 
#23 · (Edited)
No issues with melting of the buffer on the gas port? And if buffers are used in both locations, does it affect travel of the op rod? I know, you said it works great, so you answered my questions already. Just wondering if anyone can elaborate or has these problems or concerns.
 
#24 ·
No issue of melting on the buffer..........believe it or not, dont ask me why, I thought it would melt too! but no problems. As for limiting farward bolt movement, yes and no. The bolt will be fully locked, but the bolt carrier will be held off (about the thickness of the buffer) If you take your mini, and slowly mover the bolt carrier you will see the amount of movement before it actually grabs and moves the bolt, this does not seem to be a problem when useing a forward buffer, as there is still plenty of rearward movement before engageing the bolt.

Hard to explane, but easy to see if you slowly mover the bolt car with and without a buffer., you'll see the amount of play before engageing the bolt itself.
My Mini is a 187, not sure if that will come into play but I figured I'd let you know I have an older model.
 
#30 ·
Buffer install

I installed some spare Wilson shock buffs on both ends. The rod end on my 182 isn't offset like yours, it just has a central tit on the end so you can't insert it upside down. My 68 year old fingers are ritteled with arthritis so getting the front one on the gas port taught me a new language, but once started it only took a couple pops from the spring tension to set it firmly. Anyway, the recycling sure feels softer so it's gotta help. Muzzle break and shock buffs (I installed them both the same day, so not sure how much each one helped) shrunk my groups from pumpkin size to approx 2" at 50 yds. My accu-strut LT delivery has been delayed in Sparks, NV by UPS, but now scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Looking to shrink the group even further. Excitement, excitement...
 
#31 ·
Buffer install

I installed some spare Wilson shock buffs on both ends. The rod end on my 182 isn't offset like yours, it just has a central tit on the end so you can't insert it upside down. My 68 year old fingers are ritteled with arthritis so getting the front one on the gas port taught me a new language, but once started it only took a couple pops from the spring tension to set it firmly. Anyway, the recycling sure feels softer so it's gotta help. Muzzle break and shock buffs (I installed them both the same day, so not sure how much each one helped) shrunk my groups from pumpkin size to approx 2" at 50 yds. My accu-strut LT delivery has been delayed in Sparks, NV by UPS, but now scheduled to arrive tomorrow. Looking to shrink the group even further. Excitement, excitement...
 
#32 ·
I thought I would do a post showing the 1911 buffer installation.
Thanks for posting the pics and info, it really helped me make up my mind to go with the 1911's instead of the bulkier Mini-14 buffers.

Midway was out of the blue Wilson's, so I went with the yellowish polyurethane Buffer Technologies. They're not as soft as I thought they would be, but I guess that will make them hold up better. They were around $8 for a pack of 8 buffers. Much better than the $15 for a single Mini-14 buffer.

I haven't had a chance to shoot yet, but the bolt holds open on an empty magazine and cycling the bolt does not have that load 'Clack" anymore.

Thanks again!
 
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