Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 08-08-2012, 09:49   #1
Full Member
Points: 233, Level: 4 Points: 233, Level: 4 Points: 233, Level: 4
Activity: 1.6% Activity: 1.6% Activity: 1.6%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 15
185-series Mini14, best upgrades for the $$$

I am pondering a trade offer from a guy who wants to sell his 185-series mini 14 with the wood side-folding factory stock.

I had my heart mostly set on a new 580+ series with the tapered barrel and such, but the offered deal is pretty good.


So here's my question. From what I've read here (and I'm by no means an expert so feel free to correct me) the most cost-effective upgrade that everyone seems to get is a barrel strut of one of the popular types. So I would definitely do that. However, other than that, what do you think are the most cost-effective upgrades I can do without practically buying another rifle? The barrel/gasblock/reaming upgrade to be like the new minis will cost almost as much as another rifle, but how much could I expect to squeeze out of say bedding the stock, shortening the barrel/adding flash hider, cryo treating, etc. Any ideas would be helpful. Again I'm talking cost effective, preferably not spending more than $200 total for upgrades after the strut.
merlinfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 09:55   #2
Full Member
Points: 3,223, Level: 35 Points: 3,223, Level: 35 Points: 3,223, Level: 35
Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 89
Start with gundoc's trigger job, he has a great how to video on his site. It made a big improvement to my 185 series and best of all, it's a free upgrade.

Edit to add. I don't think you would find many here, who would choose the new 580 over a used factory folder.
7.62x39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 10:03   #3
#1 true dumb M-F'ing SOB
Points: 9,024, Level: 63 Points: 9,024, Level: 63 Points: 9,024, Level: 63
Activity: 20.9% Activity: 20.9% Activity: 20.9%
Last Achievements
 
COBrien's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chicken$h!t
Posts: 2,161
First things first -- take it to the range before you do anything to it. You might just have an out-of-the-box shooter on your hands.

That being said, if you decide to do some fiddling, I'd go about it in this order (JMHO, based on my personal experiences and those I've seen around here):

1. Re-torque your gas block screws. 30 in-lb, with the halves of the gas block being even all the way around is ideal.

2. Install a Choate Hand Guard. Pulling as much heat as possible out of the barrel is the cheapest and easiest mod you can make.

3. Strut. Accu-Strut or Mo-Rod, both offer the same level of improvement.

4. Trigger job

5. Bed stock

6. Shorten barrel and/or install Flash Hider/Muzzle Brake

7. Cryo treat barrel and action

I've put them in this order based on (1) cost and (2) relative improvement. Cheap, effective mods will always be at the top of my list, with expensive and questionably helpful mods at the bottom.
__________________
Come on over to PureGunTalk.com: No Politics. No Religion. No Bullshˇt.
COBrien is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 10:16   #4
Full Member
Points: 233, Level: 4 Points: 233, Level: 4 Points: 233, Level: 4
Activity: 1.6% Activity: 1.6% Activity: 1.6%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 15
Originally Posted by 7.62x39 View Post
Start with gundoc's trigger job, he has a great how to video on his site. It made a big improvement to my 185 series and best of all, it's a free upgrade.

Edit to add. I don't think you would find many here, who would choose the new 580 over a used factory folder.
Interesting, I thought the factory folder pretty cool but I didn't know how desirable it was.

Originally Posted by COBrien View Post
First things first -- take it to the range before you do anything to it. You might just have an out-of-the-box shooter on your hands.

That being said, if you decide to do some fiddling, I'd go about it in this order (JMHO, based on my personal experiences and those I've seen around here):

1. Re-torque your gas block screws. 30 in-lb, with the halves of the gas block being even all the way around is ideal.

2. Install a Choate Hand Guard. Pulling as much heat as possible out of the barrel is the cheapest and easiest mod you can make.

3. Strut. Accu-Strut or Mo-Rod, both offer the same level of improvement.

4. Trigger job

5. Bed stock

6. Shorten barrel and/or install Flash Hider/Muzzle Brake

7. Cryo treat barrel and action

I've put them in this order based on (1) cost and (2) relative improvement. Cheap, effective mods will always be at the top of my list, with expensive and questionably helpful mods at the bottom.
Good information. I'm going to email this to myself so I remember. This might be a dumb question, but how do I determine how many in-lbs of force in a torqued screw?
merlinfire is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 11:06   #5
#1 true dumb M-F'ing SOB
Points: 9,024, Level: 63 Points: 9,024, Level: 63 Points: 9,024, Level: 63
Activity: 20.9% Activity: 20.9% Activity: 20.9%
Last Achievements
 
COBrien's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chicken$h!t
Posts: 2,161
Originally Posted by merlinfire View Post
Good information. I'm going to email this to myself so I remember. This might be a dumb question, but how do I determine how many in-lbs of force in a torqued screw?
I was taught that 30 in-lb is when, using the long end of an Allen wrench (with the short end in your hand), you tighten the screw just until you start to think "Ow, this hurts my fingers". Or, if you're using a T-Handle type Allen wrench, until you can just see the shaft twist. I've used these methods on everything from gas block screws to scope rings and mounting my Accu-Strut, and haven't had anything come loose yet!
__________________
Come on over to PureGunTalk.com: No Politics. No Religion. No Bullshˇt.
COBrien is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 13:24   #6
Full Member
Points: 3,223, Level: 35 Points: 3,223, Level: 35 Points: 3,223, Level: 35
Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by merlinfire View Post
Interesting, I thought the factory folder pretty cool but I didn't know how desirable it was.
Take a look at what factory folders are going for on gunbroker.
The stock alone is worth close to what a complete 580 series rifle costs.
7.62x39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 13:32   #7
Full Member
Points: 3,223, Level: 35 Points: 3,223, Level: 35 Points: 3,223, Level: 35
Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1% Activity: 1.1%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 89
Originally Posted by COBrien View Post
First things first -- take it to the range before you do anything to it. You might just have an out-of-the-box shooter on your hands.

That being said, if you decide to do some fiddling, I'd go about it in this order (JMHO, based on my personal experiences and those I've seen around here):

1. Re-torque your gas block screws. 30 in-lb, with the halves of the gas block being even all the way around is ideal.

2. Install a Choate Hand Guard. Pulling as much heat as possible out of the barrel is the cheapest and easiest mod you can make.

3. Strut. Accu-Strut or Mo-Rod, both offer the same level of improvement.

4. Trigger job

5. Bed stock

6. Shorten barrel and/or install Flash Hider/Muzzle Brake

7. Cryo treat barrel and action

I've put them in this order based on (1) cost and (2) relative improvement. Cheap, effective mods will always be at the top of my list, with expensive and questionably helpful mods at the bottom.
While I agree with most of this, especially about shooting first, so that you at least have a starting point to know what helped and what didn't. I should have mentioned that, but some times we take things for granted.

What I don't understand is why trigger job is listed 4th if you, as you say, compiled your list with the cheap and effective mods at the top. trigger job costs nothing and made a huge improvement, at least in my rifle.
7.62x39 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 13:55   #8
#1 true dumb M-F'ing SOB
Points: 9,024, Level: 63 Points: 9,024, Level: 63 Points: 9,024, Level: 63
Activity: 20.9% Activity: 20.9% Activity: 20.9%
Last Achievements
 
COBrien's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Chicken$h!t
Posts: 2,161
Originally Posted by 7.62x39 View Post
What I don't understand is why trigger job is listed 4th if you, as you say, compiled your list with the cheap and effective mods at the top. trigger job costs nothing and made a huge improvement, at least in my rifle.
True, a trigger job can be done cheaply (hell, even free ). But I won't advise someone to take something into their own hands that could make a firearm unsafe. That being said, I know it can be done safely -- many have, including yourself.

However, I don't know the OP's skill set, and I do know that when you think you've removed enough material from the hammer and sear, you've already taken too much.

Yes, a trigger job is a worthwhile modification. But I was thinking of the trigger job as something the OP would pay GunDoc or another gunsmith to do.

And I'm not saying my list of mods is the be-all end-all of lists. I'm speaking from my personal experience and what I've seen from 2+ years of threads where others have shared their experiences.

EDIT: And I probably should have said "Mods ranked by effectiveness vs. cost, with questionable mods in last place."
__________________
Come on over to PureGunTalk.com: No Politics. No Religion. No Bullshˇt.
COBrien is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2012, 18:54   #9
Full Member
Points: 9,250, Level: 64 Points: 9,250, Level: 64 Points: 9,250, Level: 64
Activity: 59.1% Activity: 59.1% Activity: 59.1%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Natagua
Posts: 2,709
If I were offered this deal I would buy and use the factory folder "as is", it has some considerable collector value and I would not advise making any non-reversable modifications (Definately do not bed or otherwise modify the factory stock.)

Frankly, I would buy the Factory folder to collect more than shoot. If you have enough money also buy the 580+ for your shooter.
40nascar is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2012, 20:06   #10
Full Member
Points: 2,493, Level: 30 Points: 2,493, Level: 30 Points: 2,493, Level: 30
Activity: 2.7% Activity: 2.7% Activity: 2.7%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 159
I ended up buying a 186-series Police trade-in w/ Ruger folder from the small, local firearms/police supply shop for under $685 w/ sling, factory 20rd mag, 3 pre-ban aftermarket 30rd mags (PMI's and an old USA; all function perfectly) and 100rds 55FMJ Winchester white box. I REALLY love the stock... but i won't lie, i really wish the gun inside it was a 581+ series. I've added a cheap flash suppressor/compensator (pin-on) and Mo-Rod only so far but it really has brought the guns performance to where im satisfied... the rest is just gravy. Id eventually like to get the barrel chopped and the mo-reaper put on as well as re-torque the gasblock and maybe add a Harris adapter since i really cant screw rail sections into my factory folder. At some point I'd love to just be able to send my gun to gundoc and have all those things done at once along w/ his world famous trigger work.
KillerSalmon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 09:46   #11
Full Member
Points: 1,975, Level: 26 Points: 1,975, Level: 26 Points: 1,975, Level: 26
Activity: 5.1% Activity: 5.1% Activity: 5.1%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 38
Exclamation

A good shooting sling.
Tyrantresister is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2012, 20:56   #12
wxl
Full Member
Points: 5,933, Level: 49 Points: 5,933, Level: 49 Points: 5,933, Level: 49
Activity: 7.3% Activity: 7.3% Activity: 7.3%
Last Achievements
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: California
Posts: 284
I put a Houge stock on my 183 instead of bedding it $60 and 5 minutes. Retorque the gas block, free and 10 minutes. Add a strut, $80 and 20 minutes. Did a partial Gundoc trigger job. I stoned the sears, $10 for the stone and 15 minutes and trimmed off one rung on the trigger spring, free and 1 minute. I didn't have enough faith in my skills to do a full trigger job and after doing the stoning and spring it was exactly the way I wanted it. I prefer a trigger with a little creep and I don't like a very sensitive trigger pull.
wxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 17:02.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1
All information is copyright by Perfectunion.com unless already under copyright.

This site is Gunny Approved