Anyone tryed 223/5.56 mil. m855 green tip 62 gr. ammo in there mini 14 , any problems useing this ammo on the rifle ?
No problems at all. As cqbinkalifornia indicated, it's not the most accurate ammo, but it functions reliably in the Mini. It's effective within its design parameters.
Check your manual. Ruger states my 581 series is designed to shoot both .223/5.56mm.
Right. Only the "target" Mini 14 is restricted to .223, presumably because by making the chamber for the .223 and .223 only, there is a gain in accuracy.
But yes, the manual or receiver is the only way to know for certain whether one's Mini 14 will handle 5.56.
Anyone tryed 223/5.56 mil. m855 green tip 62 gr. ammo in there mini 14 , any problems useing this ammo on the rifle ?
It's a pretty hot load. I've never heard anyone who had problems with the function, but others (myself included in my 581 tactical) have found it is not the most accurate. Prices are dropping though.
M855 is actually pretty accurate in my 581 Deluxe (Tactical). I guess every rifle is different.
It's about a 4 MOA rifle with the 55 grn FMJ Remington and Wolf stuff that is practically everywhere. I just tried M855 in it and it shot about 2, 2.5 MOA! Not what I would call "tiny group ammo" but above average. I did notice it has a little more bump. Shooting 55 grn feels pretty soft to me, M855 lets you know it's there quite a bit more. 1 or 2 flyers out of 100. I also noticed a lot of copper in the bore, I had green patches when I got home.
I don't like having to resort to ordering things online, I like supporting local retailers and having things in hand immediately, and it seems like 55 grn FMJ is the only thing on shelves at all that's not varmint or match grade ammo. M855 just recently landed on a shop's shelves, I bought all I could afford. I'm happy.
It's about a 4 MOA rifle with the 55 grn FMJ Remington and Wolf stuff that is practically everywhere. I just tried M855 in it and it shot about 2, 2.5 MOA!
Its cheap ammo that has given the Mini-14 a bad rap for accuracy. My 183-series Mini, with a Ruger-installed 1 turn in 7" barrel and a slip-on flash supressor installed by me, groups just under 2" with M855 ammo. I'll bet it would be even better with Hornady TAP or match-grade ammo. By the way, M855 military specs call for it to group 2 MOA or better.
Some people complain about accuracy. I have no problems. Excellent penetration at longer distance, and through hard material. Devastates 1/4" steel welding plate. Ive done a lot of various stationary and moving drills, and from 50m-75m, anything 6"x6" is obliterated. I dont consider the Mini-14 to be a gun that performs really well at 100m. There are mods, and handloading to do that, but hell, I can just grab my M1A and take it a few 100 more meters! 50-75yds I think is where the Mini-14 does its best work.
You are dead on man! I think beyond 150 yards is a waste of good ammo for the mini. I know some people like to chase the dragon accurizing but I know what the rifle is and that is what I use it for. Why frustrate yourself, and dump money into that pit? Think about it, would corrections or LEO's have a use for a long range rifle. All of their engagements are close quarters with 50 yards probably being the farthest shootout they would even attempt. 75 yards if they were in a guard tower maybe. That is what the mini was designed for.
If you have a 581 series Mini 14 and you can't hit man sized targets beyond 100 yards, something is seriously wrong. Might be the rifle, might be the ammo, might be the shooter, but the 581 is reliably capable of making hits well beyond that range.
He said 6X6 targets, and sure the newer minis will but the rifle wasn't made to make 200+ yard precision shots. I am a big advocate for the firepower over accuracy and I like the rifle's rate of fire over long accuracy. That is why I bought it, plus reliability, and the look. Grab an M1A or a bolt rifle for your 500 yard shots. Here are a few pics of my most recent trip to the range, those were set at 100 yards with the iron sights, standing. I am not the best shooter, more like a work in progress. I didn't have a spotter or an optic to correct myself. I was just shooting and then checking my results. As I have stated before I am happy with my rifle's accuracy, but I also know it's limits.
He said 6X6 targets, and sure the newer minis will but the rifle wasn't made to make 200+ yard precision shots. I am a big advocate for the firepower over accuracy and I like the rifle's rate of fire over long accuracy. That is why I bought it, plus reliability, and the look. Grab an M1A or a bolt rifle for your 500 yard shots. Here are a few pics of my most recent trip to the range, those were set at 100 yards with the iron sights, standing. I am not the best shooter, more like a work in progress. I didn't have a spotter or an optic to correct myself. I was just shooting and then checking my results. As I have stated before I am happy with my rifle's accuracy, but I also know it's limits.
The older Minis will do it, as well. The only Minis that had accuracy problems were those made after the factory tooling had worn out. I believe that those were made in the late 1990s and early 2000s before 2003, when the Ruger factory re-tooling occurred.
I can't comment on factory loaded ammo, but I use pulled green tips on all my reloads with WC 844 (military version of H335) and these have proved to be exceptionally accurate. I have been able to group 5 shoots at under 1/2" at 75 yards. Once I revover from wrist surgery I will hit thelonger ranges.
yep -
but almost any .223/5.56 (or any other high power rifle or intermediate rifle round for that matter) will go through IIIa (Highest class of soft armor) armor like butter.
to stop intermediate and High power threats in ball ammo you need class III -
which is which is usually soft IIIA backed up with a light plate
to stop AP rifle fire you need Class IV - which is usually class IIIA soft armor backed up with a heavy SAPI plate.
there are "stand alone" class III and class IV plates - that can be worn in a plate carrier over vest, but they only protect a 10x12 section of your torso but really if you are expecting to get into the suck - wear IIIa soft armor backed up with plates front and rear - then you have full torso protection against any handgun rounds/fragmentation and rifle protection front and back.
"But Harry, what if they shot you in the face?" -Lloyd Christmas, Dumb and Dumber
"Yeah, what if they shot me in face?" -Harry Dunne
I saw a show about the new body armor they are making and those plates are now a form of ceramics. Ceramics are super hard but brittle, so they add a plastic bonding agent to the plates when the make them so they aren't susceptible to breaking. It is the lightest strongest armor on the market. You could always try what Clint Eastwood did in A Fist Full Of Dollars but then you'd look like CQBink's plate in the photo above.
"But Harry, what if they shot you in the face?" -Lloyd Christmas, Dumb and Dumber
"Yeah, what if they shot me in face?" -Harry Dunne
I saw a show about the new body armor they are making and those plates are now a form of ceramics. Ceramics are super hard but brittle, so they add a plastic bonding agent to the plates when the make them so they aren't susceptible to breaking. It is the lightest strongest armor on the market. You could always try what Clint Eastwood did in A Fist Full Of Dollars but then you'd look like CQBink's plate in the photo above.
the ceramic plates are (sort of) light... I think a 10x12 stand alone ClassIV SAPI plate weighs about 7 pounds. and are 1/2" thick
they have also recently been making plates out of UHDPE (Ultra high density polyethelyne) yep - plastic... a high grade version of the plastic that plastic kayaks are made of they are lighter than the Ceramic SAPI plates, by about a pound - but allot more bulky - about an Inch thick- IIRC
the ceramic plates are (sort of) light... I think a 10x12 stand alone ClassIV SAPI plate weighs about 7 pounds. and are 1/2" thick
they have also recently been making plates out of UHDPE (Ultra high density polyethelyne) yep - plastic... a high grade version of the plastic that plastic kayaks are made of they are lighter than the Ceramic SAPI plates, by about a pound - but allot more bulky - about an Inch thick- IIRC
The ceramic body armor, is called aluminia, and can also be used to outfit vehicles, and aircraft. It is hard and light but it is not flexible, and is classified as hard armor. There are several different ways to produce it and one involves changing the molecular structure of the ceramic using an electric field to realign the crystals so they are more densely packed. This also makes the ceramic easier to deform and manipulate. Apparently Batman's suit in The Dark Knight was made using these plates. Also the suits the bomb squad guys wear contain various plates to protect them from projectiles and blunt force trauma. The polyethylene plastic plates are also light but aren't as effective as ceramics and are classified as soft armor.
I wonder how the M855 would fare against the same steel plate but at a slight angle. Although the round is know for it's penetration I am willing to bet that it would be deflected after a 20-30 degree change in angle.
they are lighter than the Ceramic SAPI plates, by about a pound - but allot more bulky - about an Inch thick- IIRC
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