Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 09-07-2010, 22:35   #76
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That is some nasty looking machine work. The nose on the plunger looks like the whole corner is missing, and the flat has a burr rolled onto it like like weld slag.

Then you've got what looks like galling on the side, but that may be normal wear.


Without pulling my extractor and doing a side-by-side comparison with your pic, I can't say whether that hook is correct or not. It looks shallow to me, like it's angled to ride up the rim instead of hooking into the slot.

I'd put that extractor in without the spring, get a fired case, and take a very close look at the grip angle of the extractor hook.
That plunger needs to be stoned flat and deburred and polished (or replaced).

What's the chances you knocked that corner off trying to disassemble it?
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Old 09-08-2010, 06:26   #77
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The plunger does look pretty rough, it might be worth a try to replace it, and possibly the extractor too. At the very least you might replace the plunger and see if there is any improvement, as it doesn't look a whole lot better than the one in SnowCrest's picture above.
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Old 09-08-2010, 09:31   #78
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wingspar,

Dang, I know this is off the subject; but wow, nice pics! Mine would look like the guy holding up the coal dust flash bar, with his head under the big hood thing...

RO

Note to self, another piece that I need to keep as a spare...extractor.

Last edited by RetailOp; 09-08-2010 at 09:34.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:11   #79
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Originally Posted by dkac2 View Post
I'd have to look at mine, but it's possible the extractor is not cut deep enough. The plunger could be replaced also. You can see the roughness in the slot like it was not machined all the way or had a casting problem, it does not look even all the way across the slot. If it turns out not to be the extractor, you have a spare. Get an extra spring also, spare parts are important. Also check where the extractor fits into the bolt. It was hard to tell from the pic, but if any small areas of metal are sticking up, they will hold the extractor open just enough to cause your problems. If you see any, file them down so the area is flat and even. Sometimes it's just the little things.
Brownells and Midwayusa both sell them and they cost little.
Before a smith, I'd replace them.
Trying to get a photo of the hook in the extractor was impossible. I took several, but decided the one I posted showed it best. The hole the extractor fits in looks like it is still coated with cosmoline. Should I clean that out, and put some oil in there?

Are you sure having a smith work on the bolt will not void the warranty? Iíd hate to do that with a brand new gun.

Originally Posted by Evil_Lurker View Post
That is some nasty looking machine work. The nose on the plunger looks like the whole corner is missing, and the flat has a burr rolled onto it like like weld slag.

Then you've got what looks like galling on the side, but that may be normal wear.


Without pulling my extractor and doing a side-by-side comparison with your pic, I can't say whether that hook is correct or not. It looks shallow to me, like it's angled to ride up the rim instead of hooking into the slot.

I'd put that extractor in without the spring, get a fired case, and take a very close look at the grip angle of the extractor hook.
That plunger needs to be stoned flat and deburred and polished (or replaced).

What's the chances you knocked that corner off trying to disassemble it?
Iíll agree, the plunger looks a little crude. Iím sure I put some scratches in it when I tried removing it, and I didnít see the guy at the store take it apart, so donít know if he added anything to the damage you see. My guess is he did not, since he knew what he was doing, and I didnít.

I kind of doubt either of us caused the burr rolled onto the flat, nor the corner that appears to be missing. That corner looks more like it was milled that way.

I just stuck the extractor in, and it seems to grab tightly onto a live round and a spent round.

Originally Posted by TJohn View Post
The plunger does look pretty rough, it might be worth a try to replace it, and possibly the extractor too. At the very least you might replace the plunger and see if there is any improvement, as it doesn't look a whole lot better than the one in SnowCrest's picture above.
The plunger looks somewhere between SnowCrestís new plunger and his old one. Whether itís enough to cause the problems Iím having or not, I canít say.

Last night I decided to not hold up my order of my Wish List at Midway USA, and went ahead and ordered it, so I have a new plunger and extractor coming since they didnít really add much to the order, and donít weigh enough to add to the shipping cost. They were out of the spring, but the spring looks good. I wonít see them till the 15th of this month. A week from today.

Originally Posted by RetailOp View Post
wingspar,

Dang, I know this is off the subject; but wow, nice pics! Mine would look like the guy holding up the coal dust flash bar, with his head under the big hood thing...
Thanks. Photography is one thing I can do well... at least some of the time, and it reduces the amount of words I have to type. They say a photo is worth 1,000 words.
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Old 09-08-2010, 10:54   #80
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The hole the extractor fits in looks like it is still coated with cosmoline. Should I clean that out, and put some oil in there?
Yeah, clean it out spotless. A drop of oil wouldn't hurt anything.

Trying to get a photo of the hook in the extractor was impossible.

Yeah, that's tough to get a good picture of. Maybe you could lay it on a mirror and see if that works. Still, without another one to compare it to, it's going to be a bunch of speculation if it's good or bad.

Try the new parts, I have a feeling you're going to be good to go.

I searched for an hour trying to fine a decent picture of a Mini extractor on-line. No luck whatsoever.

If you could get some decent pictures of the new one before you installed it, it would sure be a valuable addition to this site.
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Old 09-08-2010, 11:00   #81
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Sounds like you did the right thing Gary.
If this does not clear the problem, then I would say it time to take it to a smith who has a bore inspection tool and have the chamber looked at.
If the chamber has problems, a letter from a smith and an explanation from you as to why you need a new barrel as well as everything else you have done should get you a new barrel for free from ruger if the barrel is bad. I can't think what else it could be if it's not the extractor, you have tried everything else.

Check the fit of the new extractor in the bolt when you get it. As I said, if there are any raised portions on the bolt keeping the extractor from going all the way back could be filed down, They would be small. I'm not talking taking a lot of metal off, mostly just looking for small casting bumps.
If you have to send it back to Ruger, a little cold blue and they will never know the difference..

Let us know how it works. Be sure the flat portion of the extractor plunger fits into the extractor, sometimes you have to file the sides of the extractor plunger a little so it fits just slightly loose in the extractor to give it room to move. I have got plungers that would not fit into the slot without a little filing.

Best Regards, John K
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Old 09-08-2010, 13:04   #82
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Here is a pic of a new 14 extractor (SS) and plunger, your parts look pretty rough compared to these.
Also looks like there is a deformation on the bottom of your extractor stem, should be smooth and round.
I think your mini will benefit from the new extractor and plunger, they don't look like they should. And seeing the brass clinging to the rough section on the inside of the extractor lip doesn't also look like it should. I would think it would cause the kind of intermittent problems your mini has, sometime it grabs good sometimes it doesn't.
When assembling/disassembling the extractor I use a hard plastic tool or whatever is handy that will not mar the plunger. Even a small screwdriver with tape on the end will work, just try not to mar the plunger.
The hole the extractor fits in looks like it is still coated with cosmoline. Should I clean that out, and put some oil in there?
Clean it out with whatever. For lube I like a very light film of grease (I use synthetic grease) on all moving parts that bear on other surfaces followed by a little bit of oil (I use synthetic). Another nice item for grease is lubriplate (military surplus), works good and stays put, a little goes a long way. Any extra grease or oil will just get flung off the bolt as it cycles and go wherever stuff like that goes.
For the firing pin either leave it dry or lightly wipe with oil and then wipe oil off so that it is just surface coated and not wet with oil. Then a wee bit of grease on the back of the bolt (with the pin installed), and a bit of grease/oil on all the locking and bolt riding surfaces, along with a little bit of lube on the firing pin camming surface in the receiver and if you want, a bit on the inside leg of the firing pin that contacts the camming surface in the receiver as the bolt is rotated and the firing pin pulled back. I'm sure others have their own method for lubrication, but that is how I do it.
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Old 09-09-2010, 11:00   #83
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Originally Posted by Evil_Lurker View Post
Yeah, clean it out spotless. A drop of oil wouldn't hurt anything.
A pipe cleaner worked to clean out the hole the extractor stem fits into, and the hole the firing pin fits into. Iíll probably put a very tiny amount of Mil-Comm TW-25B on the extractor stem, and maybe wipe the firing pin lightly with a lightly oiled rag. I donít know, but I do wonder if I just want to leave the firing pin dry?

If you could get some decent pictures of the new one before you installed it, it would sure be a valuable addition to this site.
Iíll take some photos of the new parts alongside the old parts before I install the new parts, and post them.

Originally Posted by dkac2 View Post
Sounds like you did the right thing Gary.
If this does not clear the problem, then I would say it time to take it to a smith who has a bore inspection tool and have the chamber looked at.
If the new plunger and extractor do not fix the problem, I will probably just send it back to Ruger. It is brand new, and this should not be happening. Last night, I went thru a bunch of videos Iíve done of myself shooting the Mini-14, and the jams and empty casings falling at my feet look like they happen quite a lot. I am considering putting them up on my YouTube channel. Itís a lot of video, and will take some editing to get all the boring stuff out of it.

Originally Posted by Walkenbear View Post
When assembling/disassembling the extractor I use a hard plastic tool or whatever is handy that will not mar the plunger. Even a small screwdriver with tape on the end will work, just try not to mar the plunger.
Thatís a good tip. It would take a very strong plastic tool of some sort to work, but some tape over a screwdriver would be better than a bare screwdriver.

Clean it out with whatever. For lube I like a very light film of grease (I use synthetic grease) on all moving parts that bear on other surfaces followed by a little bit of oil (I use synthetic). Another nice item for grease is lubriplate (military surplus), works good and stays put, a little goes a long way. Any extra grease or oil will just get flung off the bolt as it cycles and go wherever stuff like that goes.
For the firing pin either leave it dry or lightly wipe with oil and then wipe oil off so that it is just surface coated and not wet with oil. Then a wee bit of grease on the back of the bolt (with the pin installed), and a bit of grease/oil on all the locking and bolt riding surfaces, along with a little bit of lube on the firing pin camming surface in the receiver and if you want, a bit on the inside leg of the firing pin that contacts the camming surface in the receiver as the bolt is rotated and the firing pin pulled back. I'm sure others have their own method for lubrication, but that is how I do it.
I have some Mil-Comm TW-25B for a light application on the extractor stem. Not sure I want very much in there, as it could be a magnet for dirt, and more problems down the line.

Light wipe down of the firing pin surface... maybe. I have to wonder if I want to leave this dry?
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Old 09-09-2010, 15:57   #84
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I don't worry about lube when it comes to the bolt and the action. The Mini is kind of like the M-14, it runs better a little wet with lube. Just clean often.
It will work far better lubed than on the dry side.

You can always use one of the dry lubes on the FP. That's what I usually do, but keep a light film of grease on the bolt locking surfaces and the OP rod riding surfaces. It will wear less as long as you clean and re lube from time to time. Don't over do it, but don't run it too dry either.

I hope the new parts solve your problem, I'm betting they will. That extractor looked pretty bad.

I'm sure you are quite frustrated. Once you get it working properly, it will all just be a bad memory.
It took me a while to get my Mini running the way I wanted it to, some new parts and some work also, but now it is the most reliable weapon I have and shoots very good groups to boot. Hang in there, you'll get it working as it should and be a happy camper.

Best Regards, John K

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Old 09-09-2010, 20:27   #85
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I can see where the wear marks are. I really under lubed it the first time. I used some TW-25B on all the parts of the bolt that slide against other parts the second time I had it field stripped. Second field stripping went easier. It will be another week before I put it back together. That should go easier than the first time.

This is a little frustrating, but Iím trying to take it all in stride. This is two brand new guns in a row Iíve had a problem with. If the new plunger and extractor do not fix the problem, Iíll send it back to Ruger. Watching video Iíve taken of myself shooting the Mini over the last couple of weeks, it seems to jam more than I remember. It would not be the gun I reach for in a SHTF situation right now.
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Old 09-09-2010, 22:25   #86
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Once fixed, you will most likely change your mind. Under lubing can cause problems with jamming sometimes, so use good gun grease on the high contact areas, a light quality gun oil on the others and you wil be fine.

Best Regards, John K
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Old 09-16-2010, 20:41   #87
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The new plunger and extractor arrived. I hope to try and get this bolt back together tomorrow. In both of the photos, the old part is on the left, and the new part is on the right.





If this doesnít fix the jamming problem, the gun is going back to Ruger.
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Old 09-21-2010, 20:40   #88
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I finally got out to shoot the Mini today. I put 45 rounds of PMC Bronze .223 and 45 rounds of Lake City 5.56 thru it without a single jam. Three casings landed at my feet, the rest were thrown where they should be. If I can get at least another 200 rounds thru the gun without a single jam, I will consider the problem fixed. If it starts jamming again, it goes back to Ruger. I wonít mess with it anymore.

For the first time in several outings, the gun is once again fun to shoot. Itís been a full month since I started this thread. Iíve received a lot of help here, and I really appreciate it. A big thank you to all that helped.
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Old 09-21-2010, 22:16   #89
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Originally Posted by BLAMMO!! View Post
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...MBER_MAID_KITS

Ditto on everything, except I haven't yet tried to mount my new Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40 BDC, so I don't know about the scallops. The scallops look okay but I won't know until I try to mount it.
Be very careful, if they are off even a little bit, they can damage your scope.
Order a Whealer 1" or 30mm bar from Midwayusa to assure they line up right.
If you have any doubts, get the Millet angle lock windage adjustable rings. These have enough adjustment in them to get your scope on streight and aligned so no damage will be done.
They are made of steel, you can really crank down on them to tighten them to the action and they are a quality ring.
As of now, it's the only fix for the bad scallops that works 100%.

You want to compare the depth of the scallops from one side to the other, the distance from the top of the cut to the top of the action and look for any that are crooked. The badly cut ones will be on the back side of the ejection port, those on the other side are cast as a part of the receiver and will be right, so compare the two sides of the rifle.

Best Regards, John K
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Old 09-21-2010, 22:24   #90
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If thais fixes yur problem, the Mini will be your go to weapon.

It's not a bad idea to buy a couple of extra plungers and get one of every small part and spring. It does not cost much and if you loose or mess up a part, there is no waiting to get one ordered.
Also, if things go south, you may not be able to get the parts at all. I also have a spare extractor and ejector, you never know.

Brownells and Midwayusa both carry the spare parts. The shipping should be cheaper from Brownells if they ship in the small parts box. Prices are about the same.
It's a wise investment.

Hope she keeps shooting for you.


Best Regards, John K
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:07   #91
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Originally Posted by dkac2 View Post
It's not a bad idea to buy a couple of extra plungers and get one of every small part and spring. It does not cost much and if you loose or mess up a part, there is no waiting to get one ordered.
I suppose I could have bought extra plungers and extractors when I bought the ones I bought, but Iíve decided that if this doesnít fix the problem, the gun goes back to Ruger. I should never have had this problem with a brand new gun. Specially one with the excellent reputation the Mini-14 has.

Iíve got 90 trouble free rounds with the new extractor, and I hope Iíve fixed the problem. If the problem recurs, the gun goes back to Ruger. If the problem continues after that, I might just sell it, and get another one. What are the chances of getting two lemons in a row?

One thing I noticed between the old and new extractor is, if you look at the last photo in this thread, and the view of the new on the right and the old on the left on the bottom of the photo, just under extractor lip, the old one has a rounded edge sloping down from the lip, and the new one has a step in it. That seems like a fairly big difference between old and new. Would that be wear, or poor QC?
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:21   #92
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Originally Posted by wingspar View Post
One thing I noticed between the old and new extractor is, if you look at the last photo in this thread, and the view of the new on the right and the old on the left on the bottom of the photo, just under extractor lip, the old one has a rounded edge sloping down from the lip, and the new one has a step in it. That seems like a fairly big difference between old and new. Would that be wear, or poor QC?
Yeah, I was thinking there was enough difference that you'd think they weren't even the same part!!
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Old 09-23-2010, 20:31   #93
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Just a very silly thought, maybe someone else on here has experience with this as I have never tried.... If you had a Mini 30, could you cycle using .223? Maybe even fire some .223 rounds, but wear out the extractor because of the slightly smaller caliber?

Not even sure if that's possible, but just throwing it out there.....
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Old 09-26-2010, 11:51   #94
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It jammed on me again yesterday. I put 60 rounds of PMC Bronze thru it with no problems. I decided to finish the day off by moving out to 50 yards with some Lake City 5.56. On the 4th round, I got the jam you see in the photo. Below the photo are two links to photos of the casing showing the damage at the mouth of the casing, and the damage to the bottom of the casing. Just click on the links if you want to see. I figure I have enough photos in this thread.

One jam in 154 rounds since replacing the extractor may be nothing, but it might be the start of more frequent jams. I also had two casings fall at my feet. The rest were ejected in their normal fashion. Iím going to continue shooting this gun till the jams are gone, or they become more frequent, which is when the gun goes back to Ruger.



Bottom of the casing damage.

Top of the casing damage.
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Old 10-05-2010, 14:32   #95
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mine jam like this also. i have a 580 series mini-14 i just recently got about a month ago and converted it into a bullpup. dont know if its my stock, magazines, magazine break in or gun break in itself? it was a NIB condition by the way. ive only put about 80 or so rounds through it but i do see scratches from the brass in front of the charging handle and the shells eject pretty high up ****ing off people that are next to me at the range.
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Old 10-05-2010, 17:58   #96
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Jamming

It looks like the extractor is doing its job and that the ejected cased are htting the next case in the mag. If the mag is fitting too loosely it can cause binding of the bolt and misalingment of the subsequent round. A quick check would be to insert a mag and pull it forward while working the action. If the bolt is dragging heavily on the mag this may be the problem.

The longer the mag the more pronounced the problem can be. This is due to the torque applied by the mag resisting the motion of the rifle in recoil. The mag latch is attached to the trigger assembly, so fit of the trigger assembly controls the spacing of the mag latch. check your stock and trigger assembly to ensure no debris or mold imperfections are preventing the assembly from seating fully flush. Also check to ensure the action is seating fully. If not a fix could be to weld a bead on the tip of the mag latch and file for a tight fit.

I have seen this happen in several different rifle designs. Yours IS a rare case, most mini problems are mag fit as above or poor mags.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Guppy; 10-05-2010 at 18:11.
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Old 10-06-2010, 12:20   #97
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Originally Posted by xdejablu3x View Post
mine jam like this also. i have a 580 series mini-14 i just recently got about a month ago and converted it into a bullpup. dont know if its my stock, magazines, magazine break in or gun break in itself? it was a NIB condition by the way. ive only put about 80 or so rounds through it but i do see scratches from the brass in front of the charging handle and the shells eject pretty high up ****ing off people that are next to me at the range.
If you are not using stock factory magazines, get one, and try it and see if that solves your problem.

The scratches in front of the charging handle are normal, or so I’ve been told. You can see them in my last photo.

Originally Posted by Guppy View Post
It looks like the extractor is doing its job and that the ejected cased are htting the next case in the mag. If the mag is fitting too loosely it can cause binding of the bolt and misalingment of the subsequent round. A quick check would be to insert a mag and pull it forward while working the action. If the bolt is dragging heavily on the mag this may be the problem.
I just tried that, and could feel no difference between pulling the mag forward or not. I have two factory 20 round mags, and had the same problem with both mags. One strange thing happened when I just tried this. The bolt was frozen closed. I could not work the charging handle at all, no matter how hard I tried. It eventually freed up, but why would the bolt not work at all?

I’ve had 90 rounds thru the gun since I reassembled the bolt, and it was lubed on the outside wear marks with TW-25B, so lack of lubrication should not be a problem.

I have not had the opportunity to shoot the gun since my last post. If the gun continues to jam, it goes back to Ruger. I’m done messing with it. The problem with sending it back to Ruger is that they might have to fire more than a mag thru it to duplicate the problem, tho I could send it back with photos and video.
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Old 10-06-2010, 18:28   #98
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yeah ive used the factory 5 and 20 round magazines. still jammed up the same way along with a 30 round tapco magazine i recently purchased.
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Old 10-07-2010, 11:16   #99
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How often are you getting the jams? Mine was jamming at least once and twice per 20 round mag before I replaced the extractor. Iíve had one jam in 90 rounds with the new extractor. Havenít had another chance to shoot it yet.

Iíd put that Tapco mag aside till you resolve your problems. There are problems with the Tapco magazines, but Tapco is aware of it, and supposed to be working on it. Factory magazines should be 100% reliable. I had jams with both of my 20 round factory magazines, so my problem isnít likely to be a magazine problem.
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Old 10-08-2010, 17:12   #100
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when i first got the rifle about a month ago it would FTE every 2 or 3 rounds using the factory magazines. i have no idea what the problem is? i mean the rifle is a practically brand new 580.
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