Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 Ruger Mini-14 and Mini-30 family of rifles

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Old 05-26-2009, 20:13   #1
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making the mini shoot better via barrel harmonics

Hey everybody,

I was hoping somebody had experience with the Accuracy systems inc Harmonic Stabilizer. It is a little more expensive than other units on the market but in my experience you really can't compare Carl's products to anything else. I am trying to avoid a barrel swap on two of my mini's. The ASI is $320 and includes a trigger job, shortening the barrel, crowning the muzzle, and a forward venting muzzle brake. It is machined on the barrel and looks like a bull barrel. The unit is advertised to cool twice as fast and cut groups in half. It is a very attractive looking unit. http://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.com/index.php

The other unit I am considering is the Har-Bar which looks like it could be very effective but I would want to hear from somebody who has used it. The Har-Bar is half the price of the ASI unit (which I still think is on the pricey side but if it works......) .

The Last unit I am looking at is the browning boss muzzle brake. I have a mini target model that uses a similar concept without the brake and much more mass. The weight on my target model works great after a lot of adjusting. This is where the BOSS pulls ahead, it has a chart of different bullet weights and the amount of clicks to get near the "sweet spot". The BOSS however does not do much as far as working as an actual muzzle brake.

I have faith in this type of product (dampers) because I have had good results building my own, using the one on my mini target model, and recently I put a LimbSaver de-resonator on all my long guns and experienced improvements (shot them all off a secure bench/vise so I know it had nothing to do with my ability). I even put one on my target which now has 2 dampeners.

Along with whichever one I chose I will be toning down the gas system, adding recoil buffers, extra power recoil springs, bedding the actions, 2.5# trigger job and running Final Finish through the barrels. Doing this for both mini's will bring me under what I would spend for an ASI conversion for one gun.

Any input would be greatly appreciated, also any first hand reviews of the ASI gas block, any of the recoil springs, or any bedding jobs on the mini would be great. Thanks in advance guys.

-Pete
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:50   #2
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Pete
My 197 Mini14 has adjust. gas block, pillar bedded, 3.5lb trigger and Harmonic Stabilizer all by ASI. Very happy with it. No problems, and far more accurate.
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Old 05-27-2009, 08:09   #3
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Thanks PRC, how is the foward venting brake? I have only tried the maxi-brake they offer as I was unsure how effective the flush one would be. How adjustable is the gas block (if that makes sense) can you reliably cycle subsonic and then crank it up and throw brass 30ft during rapid fire? Lastly was the trigger worth it? I have used ASI to do the triggers in my bolt guns, but so far I have just purchased replacement mini triggers that really are not that great- lighter pull but just as sloppy as stock. Does anybody have experience with the BOSS system or the HAR-BAR?

-Pete
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:42   #4
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Pete
The Levang style brake is nice all sound is is being pushed forward. It is quieter than any other brake on a mini that I have heard and follow up shots are fast also.
The adjustable gas block is great, you can have it wide open so it chucks brass 40 feet, or you can turn it completely down so it won't cycle the action at all and everything in between. If I am plinking I adjust it so the brass ia about 5-6 feet away. If I am punching paper for best groups I turn it off.
Trigger job was worth the money, No creep and a nice break. Gundoc at www.greatwesterngunsmithing.com also has a great reputation for his work on mini's you might want to check him out.
Har-Bar's, Accu-Struts and the like, all seem to work very well. If you are on a budget you can get great results with 2 of these http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/SCP069-6.html and a 1/2" or 5/8ths dia.and a 4"-5"steel rod.

Last edited by prc77; 05-31-2009 at 11:56.
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Old 05-30-2009, 16:22   #5
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Har-Bar

Hi Pete,

I have an old 183 series Mini. I added a Har-Bar, John Mansen muzzle brake, Cryo treated the barrel and receiver, bedded the metal insert that holds the receiver in the stock, a gas bushing with a .042 dia. hole, silicone buffers on the receiver and gas block. The Har-Bar and Cryo treating have eliminated any "walking" when the barrel gets hot. The Har-Bar helps cool the barrel. All these can be done at home except for the Cryo treating. Call the guys at Cryo-Pro near Springfield, MO. The price is $35.00 plus shipping. I'm shooting 1-1/2" groups at 100 yards all day long. I am shooting hand loads.

Thanks, Mickey
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Old 05-31-2009, 04:39   #6
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try bedding the gas block to the fore-end useing JB Weld. fasten the line to the stock with 2 screws one each side up front area and remove the 'U' shaped metal piece. made a diff on my M30.
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Old 05-31-2009, 06:32   #7
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Originally Posted by pete675 View Post
Thanks PRC, how is the foward venting brake? I have only tried the maxi-brake they offer as I was unsure how effective the flush one would be. How adjustable is the gas block (if that makes sense) can you reliably cycle subsonic and then crank it up and throw brass 30ft during rapid fire? Lastly was the trigger worth it? I have used ASI to do the triggers in my bolt guns, but so far I have just purchased replacement mini triggers that really are not that great- lighter pull but just as sloppy as stock. Does anybody have experience with the BOSS system or the HAR-BAR?

-Pete
were did you find replacement triggers? was it the whole pack or just the trigger? i'm just wondering mine is set a very sweet spot but knowing of replacement parts is always good
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Old 05-31-2009, 07:03   #8
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pete675,

I agree with some of the other posts here...

In order to address the barrel, I "cryo-ed" each of my Mini's barrel, and added a barrel strut as well.

Here's some barrels struts you can buy:
Accu-strut (http://www.accu-strut.com/index.htm)
Har-Bar (http://www.rogco.biz/)
Mo-Rod (http://www.mo-rod.com/)

(NOTE: prices differ from one vendor to the next.)

Or, you can make your own; many have. Just search for 'barrel strut' here, and you'll get plenty of ideas.

Personally, I went with the Accu-strut. But, frankly, it's the overall concept that's going to improve your rifle's accuracy, not the brand. With that said, I've had a very good experience with my Accu-strut.

The cryogenic process costs only $35, and David is a great guy to work with (www.cryopro.com). Just send him the entire barrel assembly (minus the trigger group). He'll get it back to you in a week or so.

Finally, consider a trigger job from GunDoc (http://www.greatwestgunsmithing.com/mini14.htm).

I just got my triggers back, and let me tell you, they're sweet! His reputation for superior trigger jobs is second-to-none. I can highly recommend his work. ALL of my Mini's have a GunDoc trigger job...'nuff said.

I guess it all comes down to your wallet, and what you're willing to spend on your Mini. I'm sure the ASI Harmonic Stabilizer is a great mod for your rifle, but personally speaking, it seems expensive to me ($320, before shipping).

Besides, the three mods I've suggested above will address several accuracy improvements all at once. And, you won't regret any of them.

Yes, you could also glass-bed your stock, cut your barrel, change out your gas bushing, etc., but that's adding cost.

For me, I dressed my Mini's in both the Tapco Fusion and ATI Strikeforce stocks. These feel more solid than the factory original stocks. So, I probably will go with them as-is. Besides, I'm getting really tight groups, per my range time yesterday.

Finally, ask yourself how accurate you need your Mini to be.

If it's being used for hunting or varmints, you'll want some accuracy at long-range (which the mods above will provide, within reason of course).

Alternatively, if it's being used for home defense, or any goblins that may come in a SHTF situation, up to 100 yards is plenty accurate.

I hope this helps.

Cheers,

alaj70
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Last edited by alaj70; 05-31-2009 at 07:08.
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Old 05-31-2009, 11:25   #9
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alaj70,
Thanks for putting a link to cryopro in your post. I've been thinking about having it done to my 184 series mini, But I had no idea where to have it done. I'm new to the mini, but I already love it!

Last edited by IRONSIDES68; 06-13-2009 at 18:08.
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Old 05-31-2009, 16:04   #10
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Everything you suggested sounds good, EXCEPT the stronger spring. Most replies I've read show a negative impact on accuracy. Keep the stock one and get an adjustable gas block.
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Old 06-01-2009, 18:37   #11
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Originally Posted by IRONSIDES68 View Post
alaj70,
Thanks for putting a link to cropro in your post. I've been thinking about having it done to my 184 series mini, But I had no idea where to have it done. I'm new to the mini, but I already love it!
IRONSIDES68,

No problem...

Honestly, I've had really good experiences with Cryopro.

David spent some time on the phone with me both times and was very helpful in explaining what was needed on his end, as well as getting the items shipped back to me.

In fact, I'll be sending some other "items" to him again soon.

Some may make the argument that cryo-treating a barrel is not really needed, or is a bunch of hoopla.

But, in consulting my father, who is a PhD Metallurgical Engineer for over 30 years, he has explained that the cryogenic freezing process actually hardens the steel...for a second time...much like when the piece of hot steel was first plunged into cold oil and/or water.

Think of the cryogenic freezing process as a really, really, really cold bucket of oil/water (metaphorically speaking). But, with this process, the temperature is taken down really slowly, so as not to "shock" the steel. Then, it is brought back-up to room temperature, and even raised to a high temperature, further tempering the steel.

If you're really interested, here's a quick run-down from a metallurgical standpoint how the cryogenic freezing process works, on the molecular level:

By cooling the metal to well below zero, the retained soft carbon (austenite) left in the metal from the original tempering process will transform into a smaller and stronger carbon molecule (martensite), which can then be further tempered after being slowly heated back to room temperature and even temperatures above room temperature.

As a side note, I have a friend of mine who is a tactical weapons instructor in the Navy. He mentioned that they cryo-treat extremely expensive sniper rifle barrels as part of part of their SOPs, in order to prolong the rifle's life, as well as to improve accuracy.

Now, I don't know if this is actually the case, in all cases. But, this guy is pretty much on the uptake with regards to weapons procedures in the military.

You add this info to what dear 'ol Dad has verified for me...from a scientific standpoint...and I'm sensing there's much more there than just a bunch of hype.

Bottom line, what does this means for you and me?

Well, hopefully greater life expectancy from our barrel(s), more accuracy, peace of mind, and...let's face it...something to talk about around the campfire. ;^)

+1 for Cryopro!

Cheers,

alaj70
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Old 06-05-2009, 15:53   #12
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Originally Posted by Marlin 45 carbine View Post
try bedding the gas block to the fore-end useing JB Weld. fasten the line to the stock with 2 screws one each side up front area and remove the 'U' shaped metal piece. made a diff on my M30.
It might work on some Mini's, but it hurt the accuracy on mine. I went back to a stock liner. You can give it a try, the liners are pretty cheap.

Best regards, John K
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Old 06-19-2009, 08:31   #13
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I just shot an under 1" 5 shot group @100yds with my 580 series stainless 18.5 barrel (wood stock) using the 20$ Cheaper Than Dirt homemade strut featured on this forum. I was using PMC 55 grain Bronze ammo and the AE 55 grain XM 193 ammo. I have a Bushnell shotgun scope with the turkey recticle(sp),@ 4x power. The rifle shot poorly when I first got it(4"'s @ 100yds), now I have over 200 rounds through it, the accuracy came in on its own. I recommend putting a couple hundred rounds through the Mini before spending a pile of money making it more accurate. I've had this happen with a couple rifles now, it took about 200 rounds before accuracy really came in. JMHO.

Jason
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Old 06-19-2009, 09:10   #14
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Originally Posted by dkac2 View Post
It might work on some Mini's, but it hurt the accuracy on mine. I went back to a stock liner. You can give it a try, the liners are pretty cheap.

Best regards, John K
definite group tightening on mine, I also polished the bore (the .310) and the muzzle crown.
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Old 06-19-2009, 10:16   #15
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My mini 1z b0ut 11/2 at fifty, th3 mini is expected to smoke the wannabe's
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