Howdy everybody. For the last couple of months I've been trying to decide if I wanted to buy a Mini 14 and my biggest concern was it's lack of accurracy. After spending considerable time reading these posts I learned that, while not a tack driver, the Mini 14 can be "persuaded" to shoot close to MOA so I bought one. I got a NIB Ranch Rifle in stainless steel with a synthetic stock (196 series) and I absolutely love it. The first thing I did was clean it really good then mount a scope and shoot for groups. I was getting 1.337" to 2.0" at fifty yards with Wal-Mart's Winchester 45 grain Varmint Value Pack.
Following the advice of the forum members I re-torgued the gas block screwsto 24 inch pounds and feeler gauged them. My groups were worse and I noticed black soot on the bottom of the barrel at the gas block. I tightened the screws a little at a time and gauged them to make sure I was keeping everything even until I no longer got the soot seepage. My groups improved to 3" or so but still not where they were.
Next I installed a John Masen Muzzle Brake which fit nicely although a little loose. A couple of shims will fix that. After a thorough cleaning my best group with the brake started out real good for the first three shots - under one inch (0.929") - but the next shot in that group went two inches to the right and the fifth and final shot hit closer to the first three shots but only about half way. Not as good as it was before I messed with it. I'm not concerned though as I still have to have it glass bedded and the trigger worked on and possibly even a cryogenic treatment.
The rifle shot better than I expected when it was new so it stands to reason it will be an excellent shooter after all the mods, I just have to get that gas block set right.
Now, about that nuzzle brake. There are two rows of three holes on top but two of the six holes are blocked by the barrel which only leaves four holes for the gas. While muzzle jump is reduced it's still there big time. Is my muzzle brake the way it's supposed to be and are the four open holes enough to do the job?
Thank's for any help you can give me and I'm sure I'll have more questions before I'm through. Hopefully some day I will be able to contribute something that will be of use to someone just as the stuff I've read from y'all has helped me.
Jim
Following the advice of the forum members I re-torgued the gas block screwsto 24 inch pounds and feeler gauged them. My groups were worse and I noticed black soot on the bottom of the barrel at the gas block. I tightened the screws a little at a time and gauged them to make sure I was keeping everything even until I no longer got the soot seepage. My groups improved to 3" or so but still not where they were.
Next I installed a John Masen Muzzle Brake which fit nicely although a little loose. A couple of shims will fix that. After a thorough cleaning my best group with the brake started out real good for the first three shots - under one inch (0.929") - but the next shot in that group went two inches to the right and the fifth and final shot hit closer to the first three shots but only about half way. Not as good as it was before I messed with it. I'm not concerned though as I still have to have it glass bedded and the trigger worked on and possibly even a cryogenic treatment.
The rifle shot better than I expected when it was new so it stands to reason it will be an excellent shooter after all the mods, I just have to get that gas block set right.
Now, about that nuzzle brake. There are two rows of three holes on top but two of the six holes are blocked by the barrel which only leaves four holes for the gas. While muzzle jump is reduced it's still there big time. Is my muzzle brake the way it's supposed to be and are the four open holes enough to do the job?
Thank's for any help you can give me and I'm sure I'll have more questions before I'm through. Hopefully some day I will be able to contribute something that will be of use to someone just as the stuff I've read from y'all has helped me.
Jim